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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I finally got some time to play with it.. re-did the upper end with all new gaskets, (did the RTV around water jackets and replaced 1 Fuel injector) the injector i replaced had a crack in the plastic nozzle near the spout i dont even know if this will effect it much...(im attatching a picture) as it was apart i noticed 1 more had the same problem but didnt have the money or patience to replace it yet... ill do it after payday, actually, i am thinking that i will just get a set of bigger and newer ones.... currently it has 19LB injectors and that seems to me it does it no justice. assembled it last night too late to start it and time it. went home at lunch, filled with anti-freeze and timed it to 10*. runs better but still is very sluggish and slight backfire. now it is what i would call driveable but not great. played with timing and finally finished before i headed back to work at 18* base timing... runs decent with no spout in it. put in the spout and low and behold POP POP, BANG BANG. no throttle response or anything, dammit!!!!!! anymore ideas guys??????? im an so freakin frustrated i cant stand it.... the ford house did a 1hr diagnostic and for $98 they said the engine needs to come apart in order to diagnose the damn thing... at least $600 more just to diagnose the issue. i have texts turned on and am looking for things to check..... BTW ford house says alll electronics are good according to the SBDS machine... however, i get codes out the brown eye when i run them with my hand scanner(KOEO= 12,23,34,16 -- KOER=12,41,91,33,18, -- Injector Cylinder test= 8,7,5,4,2 on all three tests) .........and if anyone is interested, when i bought the car he had video and time slips supporting 11.31's 6 months before hand.... is it possible that something in the MSD distributor is broken? after talking to him more, he says he had multiple problems with the stator and module with it and had replaced the module 3 times and stator once within 9 weeks of owning the MSD distibutor
 

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the ideal thing to do is have the dealership check your ignition system with an oscilloscope. that will turn up any sort inconsistency in your firing cycle between each cylinder. according to those codes your tps is out of its specified range. couldn't hurt to check it. break out the voltmeter and check on the green and black wires for proper voltage at idle. I can't be sure off the top of my head, but I think its supposed to be .98v at idle.

The high EVP voltage is supposed to mean the EGR valve was open more than it should be. Also code 16 is o2 sensor related but could be due to the fact that your throttle isn't closing completely.

basically what you gotta do is get a repair manual with the codes in there and look em all up and see what exactly they mean. go from there and look at the specified voltage for each sensor and see if you are within spec. keep in mind that some sensors will affect others so keep checking your codes after each diag per sensor.

remember the multimeter is your best friend when it comes to EFI diag. good luck:winks
 

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msd's usually just stop working as in no spark.

you should set the timing at 12 degrees, what kind of fuel are you running?
 

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check/clean your mass air sensor
 

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Discussion Starter #5
msd's usually just stop working as in no spark.

you should set the timing at 12 degrees, what kind of fuel are you running?
running 93 Octane right now... previous owner says he always ran 87 Octane and no issues... timing at 12* still backfires a little with no spout and Very heavy backfiring with Spout... Cleaned Mass Air Flow and no change what so ever... when i get home tonight i will be checking TPS voltage. Im pulling my hair out here
 

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the reason its running rough is because the computer is trying to change the timing when the spout connector is in. with it removed the car will run at base timing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i understand that...i am just having hell diagnosing this thing.... anyone live near dover delaware and want to help??? ill make it worth your while... im attatching a pic of the fuel injector... notice the small crack at the bottom of the pic... is it possible i need a new set of injectors to fix this issue... is there any way to tell before dropping that kind of change? i know this is not right and or ok... just didnt have the money to replace another injector right now, and i really dont think that this is the backfiring, surging, popong, hesitation issue anyways... cleaned the MAF and it ran great for 3 minutes down the road (without the spout and timed at 20*) then right back to what it was doing... tach jumps around when it is poping and backfiring... TPS voltage at KOEO was .86V and it maxed at WOT at 4.62V with no open sections..... any more ideas guys? pictures you need to see in order to help me out wit this?:deadhorse:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
talked to a ford hi po specialist today and described what ive got..... showed pictures and other things of this nature... long story short, he says he would bet on something inside the distributor... while the injectors could possible cause the issue, he doubts it as well and reccomends 24lbs'ers and stator and module for the dizzy, and he says he is almost positive that will clear it all up... my ? is: is there any way that you know of to actually test it without a breakout box and high end test equipment... ?????? if so, let me know.. i hate the idea of replacing parts just to see if it will work.... when all is said and done, it gets freakin exspensive.... thanks guys talk to ya soon
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Don't know for sure....its a 76mm c&l maf with 76 mm tubing. Would pretty much guarantee it would handle almost anything I throw at it
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so i borrowed a buddies 91 GT all stock, swapped dizzy's (that is what i have been thinking it was the whole time) and low and behold!!!! fast as lightning and purring like a kitten ran an informal 1/4 and popped a 11.60.... by my math, all formal that should convert to a 12 flat at worst. so i purchased a pick-up coil for 19 bucks, and dropped the dizzy off at the local performance shop to be properly pressed on. they quoted me 45 bucks and it will be ready in the morning... if it still acts up, then on payday, i guess i will have to spring for a module. then there should be no more worries for a while... QUESTION....... lost my spout connector somewhere along the way... until i grab another one, can i just use a small chunk of speaker wire, or does it have a resister or something in it that i have to worry about????? thanks for all the advise in the past and hope for some good insight on this on... propper ETA's will follow in a few weeks..... NEXT PARTS ON THE LIST...... NEW TOP..... THEN A HOOD because mine has dents where we had to hammer it up to close the hood over the Throttle body.... then NEW HEADLIGHTS since mine are fogged over real bad and have condensation on the inside(im thinking some projectors!!!!.... BTW, I GOT A FREE SET OF 91 COBRA COBRA 5 SPOKES WITH BRAND NEW TIRES.... that is a great price!!!!!! new pics coming soon too!!!
 

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awesome, glad it worked out.. also big thanks for updating the post, it really helps a ton of people out once the google gets a hold of this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
any good answers on my last post? can i replace my lack of spout connector with a chunk of speaker wire for now, or does it have other stuff in there to worry about?
 

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hey im having close to the issuse i just put some gt40 three bar ported the exhaust side with E cam 70mm throtter exploer intake im still using the stock mass air flow and injector if i idle blow 1000 it will start popping timing set 13 but as long it idle over 1000 no popping any idea thanks my first ford mustang 89 5.0 H.O
 
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