Ford Mustang Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been in love with the 66 conv. mustang since I was about 10. I've been dreaming about buying one since I was about 15. I don't make much money, i never have. But for the past 4 years Ive been saving every penny I could spare to buy my dream car, and the day has finally come! Im managed to stash away a fair amount, so I have begun my search. I dont mind a car that needs some TLC. What is truely important to me is "orriginal". I want numbers matching, orriginal color, orriginal everything if possible.

So after a small build up here is my question:

Where do I look on the motor, trans, axle, ect to match up the numbers, and what am i looking for? How many parts do I have to match up to have a true matching numbers car?

Is the vin number stamped in full on all the parts? or is it just part of the vin? Or is it something to do with the door tag?

I know I should not be so picky, but I want to have the perfect car! And possibly give it to my son one day, (if I dont get burried in it).

I found one Im really interested in here in my area and Im going to look at it this week. The guy says its a matching numbers car. So any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks everyone!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Oh and one other thing. I have read that there are multiple stampings of the vin number on the car, under the fenders ect. is it important to check all these numbers? I have also read that there is a build sheet or something like that under the rear seat or dash? is this something i should look for as well?
i dont want to go tearing into a car im looking at, but is this somthing that is commonly missmatched? Is it something that is assosiated with a "matching numbers car"?
I dont mind a slight project car, but I would like to be able to say when Im done with the car that its a matching numbers car.
What is this build sheet thing?
sorry to be so full of questions, Its just that i dont want to make an expensive mistake.
Thanks again!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,979 Posts
Numbers matching didn't start tell 68 but on the earlier years you do casting code dates.Your block code on the v8s is right by the starter.You decode it to see if the engine was built a month or two before your car if its after its been replaced.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,806 Posts
All you can hope for is all the date codes and part numbers to be right for the year and vehicle that they are on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Im still in the dark here. I have no idea what im looking for when I go to look at the car. Where do I look to match the parts up? how do I confirm that the parts are orriginal? and how many parts are labeled?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,806 Posts
You will need to use the VIN number on the car, and all of the part numbers and date codes on those parts to be sure that what you have is original.
Part numbers can always be from dates before the year of manufacturing but never after.
C4s have two circles by the shift lever (about 3/4" in diameter) that have the month, year and day of assembly. there should also be a tag on the servo cover (held on by one bolt) with a build code that can tell you what it was made for.
The VIN number can tel you if the car came with the four speed or an auto, the color, trim package, rear gearing, and accessories.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Aside from Numbers matching ..

you look for major parts that are "Date Sensitive"..meaning they have to be cast BEFORE the vehicle assembly date.

ie: An original January 1966 Mustang should not have March 66 parts on it

Where do you live ?

Take in as many Car shows as possible this year.
There are always cars for sale at them
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Now we are getting some where!
PaulS, so what you are saying is I need to look at all the tags on the parts and make sure they are cast before the production date on the door tag? So basicly the only numbers on the parts are dates? How many parts are tagged? and do you know where the tags are so i can locate them quickly when im looking at the car?
What about the build sheet is this something I should look for as well?
I have also read that some of them have missmatched vin numbers under the fenders if they have been in a wreck. is this something i should be concerned about? Thanks PaulS, your help is very much appriciated!

Mil1ion, Im located all over the east coast in a way... I live in Boca raton FL, but travel all the time between VA, NC, SC, GA, and FL for work. I spend alot of my time in Atlanta, and Chapel Hill NC.

Ive seen a few cars for sale at some shows, but most of them are out of my price range. It seems that people at car shows are very proud of there cars. (I dont blame them)

Ive been keeping an eye on CL and Ive gone and looked at a few, but tuesday Im going to look at a very promising car. If every thing the guy tells me is correct Ill be trailering her home! :)

The one thing that worries me now is that he told me that its a numbers matching car? if there are no numbers to match then is he just full of crap?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,806 Posts
Now we are getting some where!
PaulS, so what you are saying is I need to look at all the tags on the parts and make sure they are cast before the production date on the door tag? So basicly the only numbers on the parts are dates? How many parts are tagged? and do you know where the tags are so i can locate them quickly when im looking at the car?
What about the build sheet is this something I should look for as well?
I have also read that some of them have missmatched vin numbers under the fenders if they have been in a wreck. is this something i should be concerned about? Thanks PaulS, your help is very much appriciated!

Mil1ion, Im located all over the east coast in a way... I live in Boca raton FL, but travel all the time between VA, NC, SC, GA, and FL for work. I spend alot of my time in Atlanta, and Chapel Hill NC.

Ive seen a few cars for sale at some shows, but most of them are out of my price range. It seems that people at car shows are very proud of there cars. (I dont blame them)

Ive been keeping an eye on CL and Ive gone and looked at a few, but tuesday Im going to look at a very promising car. If every thing the guy tells me is correct Ill be trailering her home! :)

The one thing that worries me now is that he told me that its a numbers matching car? if there are no numbers to match then is he just full of crap?
Tags and casting numbers - almost al Ford parts have numbers on them (like C9ZZ 99999 A or D3AT 99999 C) the first letter and number are the date code. C=1960 and the first number is the year 9 = 9 so 1960+9 = 1969 D=1970 3 = 3 so 1970+3= 1973.
The secon set of numbers tells you if it was for car, truck or performance and where it was made. The four or five numbers is the part ID code - all distributors have the same number, all heads have the same number (just the prefix changes) the last letter is the revision code - c= the third revision of the part.
I the VIN says the car came with a 4 speed and it has a C4 in it then you know it is not original. Same with the interior, color, wheels etc.

If you have mismatched VIN numbers then the car is probably stolen! Wrecks are reassembled with the original VIN number tags in place. Also the rivets attaching the VIN tag (if it is riveted) should be factory rivets - look around and learn what they look like.

The 1960s cars don't have "numbers matching" components but some people figure it is just a way of saying it is all original - some are ignorant and just don't know any better. Some think that is makes the car worth more - only the condition of the car makes it worth more - rust - in any amount especially the floors, makes it just about worthless unless it is a very rare car - then it may be worth restoring. When you go to look at a car take a magnet and a piece of paper with you. put the paper on the sheet metal and put the magnet on top of the paper - drag it over the metal (lower rear wheel wells, bottoms of the doors and top of the windshield (and any place that looks like it may have been repaired) to see if there is metal there or plastic filler (the magnet will not stick to plastic).
If the paint is new - get down and look along the car to be sure it is straight - no wavy lines where it may have been bent in a n accident. Ask for the history report - that will tell you the most about the car. Ask if it has a complete maintenance log - if it does look at it. Look at the pedals - is there a lot of wear? if you have pedals that look like there is 100000 miles on them and the guy swears that the 24000 miles on the odometer is "original" miles then walk away - no, RUN away - he is not being honest with you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
460 Posts
Like I always say: "Terminology is Everything"

Make sure everyone is on the same wave length
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
This is awesome. Thank you both for all the information. I feel as though I can go look at this car with confidence now knowing what Im looking at. Ill keep you guys up to date on what I find. Ill have a magnet in hand ready to look for filler and a mag light to look for tags and dates on all the parts. With any luck Ill buy it on tuesday. The paint on the car is supposidly shoot from sun damage, but there is supposed to be no rust anywhere. I hope its everything he says it is.

Im sure Im going to be back with more questions in the future. Thank you all so much for your help!

The only thing that did not get answered was what is a build sheet?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
I believe the build sheet should have all the info pertaining to the car regarding manufacturing plant and its options. Finding an original sheet may not be easy. I have seen postings that you can request one from Ford with the Vin number and warranty info. Would not worry too much if the seller does not have the build sheet.

The VIN number and warranty number should tell you year, assembly plant, body style, engine and then series. Warranty will tell Body, color, trim, date of manufacturer district shipped to, axle ratio and transmission. From that info you should be able to compare those numbers to the actual car and see if anything differs. The VIN on the door should match the VIN on the left front fender. Aside from the tags mentioned there is also a tag on the carb that confirms carb style and date of mfgr.

Check for rust on floor pans and open trunk and look under the fiber boards at each side. There should be no rust where the springs meet the body. From what I have heard the passenger sides tended to be a little more rust prone than the drivers. Check the oil and make sure it looks brown to black and not foamy or discolored (cracked head). Check the exhaust for sound and smoke(bad rings or valves) Make sure every item works (lights, flashers, Turn signal horn, Back up lights, radio, cigarette lighter, blowers, heater etc. Take photos of the engine all the car, under front suspension, exhaust etc. Though it is easy to get caught up in the moment. Take a day or so to think about it and assess what you have check some postings on Hemmings etc to compare similar cars then go for it if it still looks like a good deal. If the seller pulls the line that he has a couple other folks looking and ready to buy dont fall for the pressure. Take your time and you will be happier. Good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,979 Posts
I'll break is down for you lets say your car was build march 15 everything else on the car has to be made before march 15.Most engine tranny and rear ends where built about 2 or 3 months earlier then the car.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
896 Posts
Mustang Monthly just did a feature article on this exact topic, if you don't subscribe see if it is still for sale or ask your local Mustang club, someone has a copy. It is very good information.

Also keep in mind that having correct numbers/dates matching parts is not all that important unless you are being judged in the Concours class at a show. Just because the car had a replacement part put on it in it's lifetime does not make it any less of a car unless you want a trailer queen car. Make sure that the door tag matches the equipment (C code and it has a 289 2V for example) installed in the car but don't get too hung up on tracking down date codes.

It sounds like you want a car to drive and enjoy.

Find one that you like, can afford, and that has the correct equipment and is in good overall condition and you will be very happy.

That's just my opinion.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
236 Posts
ALL Mustangs from early 65 had date codes on various pieces of the car,including sheet metal, lenses, glass, interior& exterior trim pieces thats what a TRUE number matching car is.If your car has been worked on.......Pick up the JUNE issue of Mustang Monthly. they have an issue dedicated to NUMBERS MATCHING Mustangs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
You may find that having a correct matching vintage drivetrain may not be as fun as you thought.

Today, having mods on all but the super rare cars is considered ok.

IMO, I would spend more time looking for a convertible with the body in great shape...rather than originality. There is a REAL good chance, that once you start driving it, you'll immediately want to make safety enhancements, such as better brakes/tires/wheels etc etc.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top