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Greacore

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1966 Ford Mustang 200 cid, 3 spd auto, original color was nightmist blue
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West Bend, WI, USA
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Good morning everyone. I am refreshing my 1966 six-cylinder Mustang. Upon removing the rear window, I found a tiny hole on the left and a tiny hole on the right. Both holes seem to be the same distance from the bottom corner. Is this just a rusted out spot and it’s just a fluke that it happened on both sides or is this something that Ford did for some reason? If this is something that needs to be fixed before the window goes back in, is it just a matter of spot welding a piece of metal or could I use lead to fill the tiny hole?
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Yes it needs to be fixed. The size of the repair depends on the amount of good metal around it and if there are other spots that need attn.
These are the only spots I can find. They are very small and I was thinking about putting a screw in them and welding it tight. My other option was to melt a drop of lead. Do either of these options seem plausible?
 
Your photos show a lot of rust all over the place. A lot of other things can be hiding under that rust dust. Also, just a word to others, I am going over my white '68 and have found several places where the factory spot welds were twisted during the welding and left a tear in the metal. Under the windshield at the cowl, below the back seat, and in the right rear wheel well. All open to the outside.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Both are.
Thank you
Your photos show a lot of rust all over the place. A lot of other things can be hiding under that rust dust. Also, just a word to others, I am going over my white '68 and have found several places where the factory spot welds were twisted during the welding and left a tear in the metal. Under the windshield at the cowl, below the back seat, and in the right rear wheel well. All open to the outside.
thank you for that !! I will look further and deeper into the window sills. I sanded every spot that looked to have any kind of dimple, ripple or nipple.
 
These are the only spots I can find. They are very small and I was thinking about putting a screw in them and welding it tight. My other option was to melt a drop of lead. Do either of these options seem plausible?
FYI...they actually make a lead replacement (bondo type) filler that contains no lead... very effective
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
FYI...they actually make a lead replacement (bondo type) filler that contains no lead... very effective
That’s cool, is it easy to use? Is that something that 3M makes or is that more than likely a Dupont product?
 
That’s cool, is it easy to use? Is that something that 3M makes or is that more than likely a Dupont product?
Yes- easy to use...several mfg's make it... check with you local autobody supply store
 
You also need to treat the rust areas. No amount of sanding will get it all out of the craters. Wire wheels do better, but not all. I like a product called Ospho. A bit pricey, but it goes a long way. I use it on everything steel that needs treatment.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
You also need to treat the rust areas. No amount of sanding will get it all out of the craters. Wire wheels do better, but not all. I like a product called Ospho. A bit pricey, but it goes a long way. I use it on everything steel that needs treatment.
Yes, I’ve been through a few wire wheels already as well as one wheel that was like fabric sand paper. That really worked well on some areas. I am doing most of the minor prep work myself. I removed most of the chrome the glass and the interior. I’m looking to have it painted back to the original blue. The red is nice but this car is to complete to not be the right color.
 
Three things to deal with rust: sand blast, muriatic acid followed by soda and then clear water, Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.

That primer will cover and seal anything: rust, dirt, grease,,,.

Brushing and/or sanding will never get it all, at least without removing a lot of metal.

Rust converter will convert rust to hard "paint", will then chip, expose bear metal, and then re-rust.

For small holes, that are non structural, and "out of sight"; silicone.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Three things to deal with rust: sand blast, muriatic acid followed by soda and then clear water, Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer.

That primer will cover and seal anything: rust, dirt, grease,,,.

Brushing and/or sanding will never get it all, at least without removing a lot of metal.

Rust converter will convert rust to hard "paint", will then chip, expose bear metal, and then re-rust.

For small holes, that are non structural, and "out of sight"; silicone.
Ok, thank you for this information. The holes are under the rear window sill. I have access to the outside but I think it would be on near impossible to get to the inside of this.
 
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