Ford Mustang Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm looking for some ideas on how to improve the steering wheel play on my 67 Coupe. It sometimes feels more like I'm driving a boat then a car. It has the stock power steering and dampers on it. Any help would be appreciated.:wavey
 

· Registered
Joined
·
240 Posts
I'd say the first thing you could do is check your tie rod ends...They may need replacing. That might tighten it up a bit but if you've got a significant amount of play I say the problem is in your steering box. It is likely worn out and the only real way to fix the issue is to replace it...unless you can rebuild a steering box. That might be thing but I don't know. Granted, I don't know much of anything and I'm quite likely entirely incorrect. You know, come to think of it...you'd probably be better off ignoring this post.

......walks away whistling.....
 

· Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, it's the thought that counts. I thought about the steering box, that would be a little above my skill level.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,015 Posts
You can determine what parts are causing the slop so long as substantail amounts are beinig caused at the connections being inspected. In other words...

If the slop is evenly divided between all the steering connections and the slop is small - it would be hard to pinpoint the cause. But typically, especially with these old cars, the slop is easy to see.

Check out this short thread regarding steering woes...

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...3-bit-play-my-steering-wheel.html#post2131868
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,804 Posts
Yep, make sure the front end and steering components are all tight and then look to the power steering components for wear. When you have it all tight you can put a good alignment on it and have a great handling car.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
658 Posts
If it is a 40 year old steering, then there is a good chance there is wear in all the parts as has already been pointed out.

Each piece has to be analyzed throughly for slop, movement, then proceed to the next joint.

When you get to the Control valve, the Ball stud has to move approx 3/8" total travel left to right. Don't get alarmed to see movement here, it has to move to move the spoole inside the valve to direct fluid movement to the Cylinder, either pushing, or pulling.

Of course excess movement does indicate a worn control Brass sleeve, Seats, Ball stud.

The Box, Remember, any movement in the imput shaft will produce a movement in the Pitman, Absolutely ZERO exceptions.

The calibation on the box is done at High Center (Exact midlle of the turning radius---4 turn box equates to 2 turns from hard lock left/right, 5 turn 2 1/2 turns gets ghigh center.

Dan @ Chockostang

chockostangclassicmustang
 

· Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
I believe when people have this slop problem it is always the control valve. these things wear out easy and was the problem of mine. Rebuilt it for around 50 dollars if my memory is correct and it ran fine except it leaked like hell. I ended up tossing and selling my system and went to manual. Much better in my opinion
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,975 Posts
I started with very sloppy original PS on my '67, about 2" of wheel play each direction, replaced all the steering and suspension components, had the control valve/ram rebuilt and got down to ~1" of play each direction. I then removed the cover to the gearbox and scooped all the old grease out and repacked with Ford spec grease. This got me down to ~1/2" of play either direction, big improvement with fresh grease but you need to know how to set the adj. screw back to the correct tension or you'll wear the box out.
I have since had my box rebuilt but not driven the car yet.

I'm guessing you have the one piece steering shaft with a '67 so there's no rag joint to add play. Put 2 pcs. of wax paper or some tiles under the front tires so they turn easily, have the car running in park so the PS is working and have someone turn the wheel L/R slowly while you watch the pitman arm to see if the slack is more in the gearbox or in the idler/tie rods, etc.

Jon
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top