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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My built up 302 is still on the engine stand, and I got the long block a year and a half ago and eventually assembled the rest of the engine in the time since then. It's been primed with oil though I haven't reprimed it recently.

I'm making a move and the engine will have to sit another year before i can do anything to it. Are there any special precautions I should take? I'm guessing I should probably prime it again to get oil back through the passages. I wasn't sure if I should crank it by hand a bit. I just don't want to wear too much of the assembly lube off the cam.

Right now the carb is sitting on it, a dizzy is sitting in place, and I'm going to get plugs for all the ports on the intake (it just has shop towels plugging them right now).
 

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My Mustang sat longer than a year outside under a cover without being started, and it fired up just fine. All I did was squirt a few tablespoons of oil into each sparkplug hole before leaving it sit. Then I cranked it over by hand a few times, then with just the starter, then popped the plugs in and away we went. So I think your motor will be fine. I think the biggest worry is surface rust setting in, perhaps a heavy weight oil like 20W50 would be better? Squirt oil in the cylinders and crank it by hand now and then?

I'd like to see what some of the veteran engine builders lurking around this site have to say; I'll stay tuned!
 

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Fog the cylinders with marine fogging oil and install plugs. Make sure to plug every single opening on the engine. I'd pull the carb and seal intake, storing carb seperatly, bagged and boxed, with a desiccant bag in with it. Since you have already put oil in it, I would prime it with a priming tool occasionally if you are able.
 

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as long as the internals are all lubed up some, the engine is wrapped up good with no condensation getting in or building up, with all the holes plugged up, and its stored somewhere out of the elements and not in a crazy temperature (extreme hot/cold) it should be good to go

yes, priming every once in a while is a good idea to keep everything lubed

and I agree with Explorer about pulling the carb & sealing the intake

any condensation buildup will cause the inside of the block to rust up
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The engine will be sitting inside the car which always sits garaged in Iowa...Iowa is hot in summers and cold in winters. The garage gets cold but not overly hot.

Also might be useful to know this is a rebuilt engine that has never been installed or fired up.

It will be difficult to do anything to it if it's wrapped up, and will be difficult to wrap when installed. Think the wrap is actually necessary if the inside is sealed off well? Of course I can always keep it covered with a large garbage bag like it is now.

Any creative ideas for how to effectively seal off the carb mount on the intake?
 

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The engine will be sitting inside the car which always sits garaged in Iowa...Iowa is hot in summers and cold in winters. The garage gets cold but not overly hot.

Also might be useful to know this is a rebuilt engine that has never been installed or fired up.

It will be difficult to do anything to it if it's wrapped up, and will be difficult to wrap when installed. Think the wrap is actually necessary if the inside is sealed off well? Of course I can always keep it covered with a large garbage bag like it is now.

Any creative ideas for how to effectively seal off the carb mount on the intake?
Two actually. One is a carb gasket under a lifting plate which I normally use anyway. The other was not my design, but the guy used a 1/4" gasket and ductape.LOL That engine had set for ten years outside in the vehicle covered by the hood. It was a newly built engine, with no oil in it, only assembly lube. I had it torn down not wanting to take a chance, and the only rust on it was the rocker and spring right under the oil filler cap. Go figure. If I tried that it would have been ruined.
 
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