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My friend's truck recently rolled into my mustange leaving some scuff's on the hood and a small dent. So while he is going to pay for the repairs, I am going to go ahead and get the stripes done. So how much should I look at spending for 1 wide stripe..say 16" and then 2 small "pinstripes" 1 on either side of the big stripe?

And after the painting is done...you should not be able to feel a bump at the edge of the stripe...correct?

Thanks
John
 

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I paid a total of $1750 for the stripes plus three coats of clear on top. You will feel the bumps if you do not put clear on top. The edge may be sanded smooth, but you may run into a problem loosing the straight edge.


Just my opinion, and my own experience.
 

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J&D said:
I paid a total of $1750 for the stripes plus three coats of clear on top. You will feel the bumps if you do not put clear on top. The edge may be sanded smooth, but you may run into a problem loosing the straight edge.


Just my opinion, and my own experience.
damn...i didn't think it would be that much...I was thinking $1000 tops...
 

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I did all of the layout work on my car for the "Lemans" stripes over the top, and the side "rocker" stripes. I work for a large Porsche dealer and had our body shop do the paintwork. My price was $800 plus about $120 for the "rocker" stencils. It's a lot of work to do it right, and the price depends on what your expectations are, and what a shop would charge for that work. A thousand dollars is about right. Much less, and you might not like the work. More than $1,400 you should be getting show-quality. What do you need? Finally, make sure you think-out the design and the stripe color. Find photos of a car that you like the look of, or do some modeling with your computer. It will cost a lot to repaint if you end up not liking the "look".
 

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I work at my local Ford Dealership's bodyshop as the painter....we charge $900 to do the Lemans plus rocker stripes. this doesnt include clear coatin the entire panels..therefore you will feel a edge. thats the way the orginal cars were :)
 

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SharpTJ said:
damn...i didn't think it would be that much...I was thinking $1000 tops...
You could get the stripes on for less than 1k, no problem. Mine was that much because I clear coated the entire car. For less than 1k you can get a decent jobs on stripes and finish it well with a good polishing job. Good luck and hope we helped.
 

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J&D said:
You could get the stripes on for less than 1k, no problem. Mine was that much because I clear coated the entire car. For less than 1k you can get a decent jobs on stripes and finish it well with a good polishing job. Good luck and hope we helped.
I just did my own stripes and the materials alone for clear coat is about $500. Basically if your putting stripes on the front bumper, hood, roof, rear decklid and rear bumper, then you basically are doing almost a whole paint job. The nice part is you can put a nice coat of clear that you want and sand it flat to look even better than that factory finish.
 

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What sincitystang said!! I went ahead and did the whole car since I also put stripes on the rocker panels. The entire car looked smooth. No more orange peel.
 

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J&D said:
What sincitystang said!! I went ahead and did the whole car since I also put stripes on the rocker panels. The entire car looked smooth. No more orange peel.
J&D post a pic of your stang, i want to see that mirror finish that the factory cannot match!
 

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250-350 where i live for a complete kit in any color you want (even carbon fiber but it is more expensive) it is done by autgraphix if knoxville tennessee
 

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03blckGT said:
250-350 where i live for a complete kit in any color you want (even carbon fiber but it is more expensive) it is done by autgraphix if knoxville tennessee
I am asuming this is for a Vynil kit irght? not pianted??? Thats cheap if its painted and they must be using cheap materials. I bought really good paint, PPG and it was almost 300 for the hardner(catalyst), clear + sealer, plus all the other goodies you need to paint a car the correct way, plus sand paper and rubbing compound, buffing pad ..etc...

BTW, i had a freind with a 1992 honda civic 1.8 ltr VTEC JSPEC motor from Japan with forged internals and JE pistons. Compression is 8:1 and using a garret turbo @ 18 PSI, on 92 Pumpgas, with the custom programing on his ECM, this damn car was doing low 12's, high 11s on street tires, and quicker on slicks, but its tough launching a front wheel drive car! dont underestimate those little cars, they are light weight and have some sleeper power.
 

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sincitystang said:
J&D post a pic of your stang, i want to see that mirror finish that the factory cannot match!
give me till the weekend when I can wash the car appropriately!!
 

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I paid about $1,000 including the clearcoat which I HIGHLY recommend, but my paint scheme was more reminicent of the Mach 1, which limited the number of panels that needed to be clearcoated. If you run the stripes from bumper to bumper, you need to clearcoat the front fascia, hood, roof, rear deck, possibly the spoiler, and the rear fascia. I could easily see that running a couple of thousand if done right. I didn't want to feel the ridge between the new and original paint, so I clearcoated the entire part. What a huge difference. It's a great place for wax to accumulate, too. So do it right, you'll be happier with the results in the end. :happyhapp
 

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Agreed with myltlpny, the clear needs to be done on the entire panel, NOT just the stripe.

The finish on my hood, trunk, and bumpers is FAR better than the factory orange peel.
 
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