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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
How much nitrous will engine handle? It has a stock bottom end. I do have HT0 plugs. I would really like to put a 150 on it. How long would it last? With the parts i've added and a little more weight reduction like 250 more out. I was really wanting to try for a 10.90... What 60 would i have to achieve on a car with 440rwhp and 500tq to run a 10.90?
 

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Without forged rods/pistons it is generally accepted that the engine's limit is about 450hp, unless you have a very large bank account and want to risk blowing your motor I would not run a 250 shot...regardless the engine would need serious tuning/fuel system upgrades to take more than about a 100 shot safely.
 

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Like 2 manystangs says, without forged internals not much. But you could take a 150HP shot safely. It all depends on your block, and internals being forged as to how much a motor can take. Send a PM to Reggie, he's a big fan for Nitrous Oxide. He also runs quite a bit in his own car, Mike. SCT Tuner. :bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup P.S. If you do want to PM Reggie, just PM ( RLG34750 ) he's good about getting back to you. Also, he has a lot of knowledge when it comes to Nitrous Oxide, Mike. :bigthumbsup
 

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I would not spray more than a 100 shot,and that is what I spray. I safely have gone through more than 60 bottles. If you go to even a 125 shot , all I can say is good luck. That is what your block will run on ,(luck). Forge the internals and spray a 200 shot then you will see a 10.90. Even with a 150 you will not get it,unless you have a suspension like mine and all the goodies to support it.
 

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125 is asking for trouble.Stay with the 100 shot and get the time elsewhere. I speak from experience.Do not spray anything without a dynotune.
 

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The HP is not really the issue...it's the torque and the fuel pressure drop. Anything above a 125 shot on the returnless fuel system is too much. Fuel pressure drops dangerously low.

125 is asking for trouble.Stay with the 100 shot and get the time elsewhere. I speak from experience.Do not spray anything without a dynotune.
 

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I would try working on weight reduction and a good set of sticky tires and suspension that will plant the power. See where your at with those mods, none of them require refils and you will need them any way. Once you get a base line from those mods, add some spray.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I don't want to run a 250, i was talking about taking about that much more weight out. I want to run a 150... I got a tubular radiator supp, slicks and skinny's on some big and littles. I have tubular upper and lowers, driveshaft like i got in my sig. I also do have a dyno tune for the 100. I was wanting to buy a bap and do the 150... I know some have done it. I was really just wondering about what kind of power and 60ft i will have to get to get a 10.90 or atleast close. My car has 410's with a 28in tall tire would 430's be better? My car pulls 1.6's on 275=60-15'sMT drag radials... thanks for help and any advice.
 

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4.30 would get you off the line much faster, but wouldn't be much fun during highway driving. Not sure what the 60ft time would need to be. You might be able to find out by calling the local track, they see it all the time and would most likely be the best source for that info. You can also drop alot of weight by ditching the factory front seats in favor of some more race inspired seats. Don't bother with a rear seat delete as a weight savings. The back seat is very light and the weight reduction would be minimal. Do you disconnect your front sway bar when you go to the track? Not sure what your shifting technique is like, but that is what holds many people back. A better clutch might help as well, if you haven't already done that. Slippage can cost some time, especially during the launch.
 

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A good hook to get you a 1.5 or lower 60' would be what you need. A 150 shot will not last very long unless you've got a phenomenal tuner. And yes you will need that shot dyno tuned to hope to run it right.

After a certain point the 60' matters less than your power/weight and you'll be pushing the engine to a point way beyond its stress limits.

Look at this:
YouTube - MikeysGT at Famoso Raceway beats street bike

Your suspension is not set up for the track, much less squeezing every last .01 sec out of your ET. You'll need that. If you haven't yet, a dyno tune on that shot you have. Sticky tires, some solid track experience, and a bit of weight reduction. All of that plus a 125-150 shot can get you into the realm of possibility when it comes to a 10.99 or lower.

Granted even then you might not make it down the track even once.
 

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A good hook to get you a 1.5 or lower 60' would be what you need. A 150 shot will not last very long unless you've got a phenomenal tuner. And yes you will need that shot dyno tuned to hope to run it right.

After a certain point the 60' matters less than your power/weight and you'll be pushing the engine to a point way beyond its stress limits.

Look at this:
YouTube - MikeysGT at Famoso Raceway beats street bike

Your suspension is not set up for the track, much less squeezing every last .01 sec out of your ET. You'll need that. If you haven't yet, a dyno tune on that shot you have. Sticky tires, some solid track experience, and a bit of weight reduction. All of that plus a 125-150 shot can get you into the realm of possibility when it comes to a 10.99 or lower.

Granted even then you might not make it down the track even once.
I agree, and Miguels GT was only running a 100 shot. He has suspension work. Not as much as I got but he has the basics. I am also at 5600 feet above sea level , and he runs in Bakersfield CA. sea level. The thing is it is not safe on the motor to run over 100 shot , but go ahead and try. I will sit and wait, for the destruction of the Days Of Our Lives.:rollgrin:
 

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You should datalog your fpdc and see if the pump is close to being maxed out. If your torque is below 470 on the 100 shot and your pump looks ok, then I think you'd be ok with a 125 shot. I'd run a window switch too.
 

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You should datalog your fpdc and see if the pump is close to being maxed out. If your torque is below 470 on the 100 shot and your pump looks ok, then I think you'd be ok with a 125 shot. I'd run a window switch too.
I am considering going to a GT 40 pump.I am also thinking 39 lb injectors would be beneficial. That would be just an extra precaution. Kurgan how do the FRRP hot rod cams effect the nitrous shot? I am on the edge of just pulling the trigger on them as well.
 

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I am considering going to a GT 40 pump.I am also thinking 39 lb injectors would be beneficial. That would be just an extra precaution. Kurgan how do the FRRP hot rod cams effect the nitrous shot? I am on the edge of just pulling the trigger on them as well.
Well, I think they help with the horsepower, but you might lose some torque with them. I dyno'd at 410whp/430wtq with a 100 shot and 900psi. I only say this because I see most people with the stock cams are usually around like 390rwhp/450rwtq with the 100 shot. They don't ever seem to say what their bottle pressure is though which we know is important.

I know people always say you should shoot for higher torque numbers, but it all depends on your shift points and gearing. For me they are great because I am able to run them on the road course where I stay in the upper rpms shifting around 66 - 6700. You are kicking ass on your track already so I'm just not so sure they would help you out any. They will definitely help in the upper rpms, but the torque curve on these cams you don't GAIN any down low...you don't lose any either though. HTH.
 

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After rereading that post it sounds a little confusing. To elaborate further...

With nitrous I am spraying from 3000 - 6200(window switch settings). After 6200 your HP is obviously going to drop off so it just does no good shifting much beyond that on the drag strip with nitrous. I'm assuming you're shifting at about the same rpm.

The FRPP cams start picking up the torque curve above the stock cams around 5000 rpms or so. So, effectively you're only getting a little gain from the cams on the drag strip with nitrous....just not sure it would be worth the money and hassle for your application. Now, if I'm mistaken and you're actually spraying up to 6500 then I'd say they would be justified. The injectors and pumps will do you the most good imo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I know i will need some shocks stuts and better springs... I got a adj upper and lowers, driveshaft, tubular rad support. I know that adding racing seats will help alot cause i got leather. Would a shift to 430's on a 28" tall tire cause me to run out of gear say if i'm in the mid 11's... As far as the driving mod i know you all hear this a lot but i really can drive my car. I've owned 4 mustang since 18 and i'm 25. Had 2 10.80 cars. I've always had one, and been to the track countless times. As far as my et, i really do trust my performance. Thanks for advice, will the factory springs do ok with a set of good struts, and shocks, like tokico's struts matched with lakewood 50/50 shocks? I got some shocks that i bought of a guy on a s197, so i know they will fit. That is a great video by the way. That mustang hooks great. I'd say that was a 1.5 or lower 60ft.
 

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What are your RPMs at at the stripe now? The 4.30s with taller tires will act like the 4.10s do with the stock size tires; give or take a few RPMs. Have you thought about moving to a bigger CAI, a set of LTs, cams, and straight through mufflers? The main question is what kind of drivability are you will to give up. To get these cars to go 10.9 gets expensive quick. The easiest way is through a turbo or supercharger. Nitrous can do it, but how many times your engine will hold up to that abuse is the big question. Unfortunatly you never know until you go past it's limits, every one of our cars have a different limit. We all use the 450rwhp as a guidline. Some cars are putting down over 500rwhp with a stock engine and some have granaded with less than 450rwhp. I would reccomend building an engine for that purpose, if you're determined to get that et. Otherwise you'll be chasing a unicorn.
 

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The easiest way is through a turbo or supercharger. Nitrous can do it, but how many times your engine will hold up to that abuse is the big question. Unfortunatly you never know until you go past it's limits, every one of our cars have a different limit. We all use the 450rwhp as a guidline.
NOT to get into another nitrous vs FI debate, BUT...

If you look at most engine failures with 3V's, you'll find the point of failure to be a broken rod in the low rpm's(<3000). Most of the rest happen in the upper rpm's(>6200). Almost NEVER do you see a catostrophric failure between those rpms. That's why I have my window switch set at those rpm's.

When you see a supercharged or turbo charged 3V it's making it's max power/torque around 6500(above the recommended safe rpm limit for power adder). Not so with nitrous because it would be making too much HP for those weak rods at that rpm. That's why we either stop spraying(via window switch) or shift early.

The key is to stay as close to the rpm where your making your max torque. Again, it's lower with nitrous and higher for FI. Do the math to figure out which is faster...safer.
 

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NOT to get into another nitrous vs FI debate, BUT...

If you look at most engine failures with 3V's, you'll find the point of failure to be a broken rod in the low rpm's(<3000). Most of the rest happen in the upper rpm's(>6200). Almost NEVER do you see a catostrophric failure between those rpms. That's why I have my window switch set at those rpm's.

When you see a supercharged or turbo charged 3V it's making it's max power/torque around 6500(above the recommended safe rpm limit for power adder). Not so with nitrous because it would be making too much HP for those weak rods at that rpm. That's why we either stop spraying(via window switch) or shift early.

The key is to stay as close to the rpm where your making your max torque. Again, it's lower with nitrous and higher for FI. Do the math to figure out which is faster...safer.
I was looking at the sudden hit rather than the build up of power, but your correct that done correctly they are all safe if not you get a paper weight with any of them. He wants 10.9s and that seems like his engine with stock internals would be living on borrowed time. I'm still looking at dropping a bottle in mine, just taking care of some previous issues first. Do you run the colder plugs all the time?
 

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I was looking at the sudden hit rather than the build up of power, but your correct that done correctly they are all safe if not you get a paper weight with any of them. He wants 10.9s and that seems like his engine with stock internals would be living on borrowed time. I'm still looking at dropping a bottle in mine, just taking care of some previous issues first. Do you run the colder plugs all the time?
Yes, I've had the HT0's in for almost 15K now and they still look good. Haven't had any problems with fouling and I check them often....but then again I spray often so that probably helps keep them clean.
 
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