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Hey everyone,

I've got a 1989 Mustang LX in white and I'm looking to repaint it the same white. (Just freshen it up a bit). I'm trying to be as budget conscious as possible so I'm doing all the work myself. Only going to be painting the exterior. Not the engine bay, inside trunk area, or the insides of the doors or any other panels. Just the hood, fenders, bumpers, roof, quarter panels, doors, etc.

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas of how much paint I should get? A pint? A quart? A gallon? I really have no idea.
(Planning on doing the bc/cc set up). Just looking so I don't have a ridiculous amount left over, or not enough at all.

Thanks!
 

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Hey everyone,

I've got a 1989 Mustang LX in white and I'm looking to repaint it the same white. (Just freshen it up a bit). I'm trying to be as budget conscious as possible so I'm doing all the work myself. Only going to be painting the exterior. Not the engine bay, inside trunk area, or the insides of the doors or any other panels. Just the hood, fenders, bumpers, roof, quarter panels, doors, etc.

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas of how much paint I should get? A pint? A quart? A gallon? I really have no idea.
(Planning on doing the bc/cc set up). Just looking so I don't have a ridiculous amount left over, or not enough at all.

Thanks!

It all depends on how you plan to do this. If you are going
with a so called two step method then you can get away with
a gallon of primer and a gallon of finish coat. if you are going with
the three step method then you will need a gallon of primer a gallon
of base coat and at least two gallons of clear coat. Personally clear
coat method is the best if it is done correctly. You get the wet look
without waxing all the time.
 
S

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It all depends on how you plan to do this. If you are going
with a so called two step method then you can get away with
a gallon of primer and a gallon of finish coat. if you are going with
the three step method then you will need a gallon of primer a gallon
of base coat and at least two gallons of clear coat. Personally clear
coat method is the best if it is done correctly. You get the wet look
without waxing all the time.
^^^^^^^^^^^VERY GOOD ADVICE!^^^^^^^^^^

Go with a "Good" Clear-Coat over the white! As I consider this a No-Brainer! ;) .....Don't forget, Ford did NOT Start using Clear-Coat Paint until 1992, And this was ONLY on the Metalic Paints!....As both the Ford "Oxford White" and the "Blacks" were NOT Clear-Coated until a few years later!:surprise:.....

As stated above, going with a Clear over the Base color not only makes your Paint Look 100% better! It also gives the Base Color Significantly more protection!

If it was up to me!:laugh2: I would mix in some Pearl! as NOTHING makes a white paint job look better then a job with a Pearl Sheen in it!:surprise: ....And the Best thing is, YOU get to choose how Much, or how little of that Pear effect shine that you get, by how much of the actual powder (Gram/Grains) that you add to your Base-Coat!......

You should check out "House Of Colors" website, as they can tell you exactly what, and how much of everything that you will need :) !....

Heck, there are a bunch of Car Paint companies out their that are great! As they even come as far as selling 3-Stage ("Tri-Coat" or "Tinted Clear-Coat Pearls") Just like My 2013's (RZ) "Red Candy Pearl, Tinted Clear-Coat" in things as small as just 1 Oz. each! As say for instance I wanted to perform a small fix. I could order as small as 1 Oz. of Base-Coat (Gold) then 1 Oz of Mid-Coat (Translucent Red with Pearl) This "Translucent Red Pearl" is what gives it that "Candy" Look, as it lets some of the "Gold Base-Coat" Come through the "Red Midcoat" And then you finish it all off with a final "Clear-Coat" (And depending on how "Deep" you want the Paint to look, well you can apply Multiple Coats of Clear! (With Wet-Sanding, "Cutting" between Coats, so everything is smooth as possible, (No nibs, or "Orange-Peel" artifacts..


Sean.
 
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