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Iam going to install hellions 62mm single turbo kit on my 1993 mustang gt. Car has 55,000 miles and stock motor. Will change intake and heads but wondering how much power the stock bottom end will take before destruction? going to intsall valley girdle and main support as well.
 
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Iam going to install hellions 62mm single turbo kit on my 1993 mustang gt. Car has 55,000 miles and stock motor. Will change intake and heads but wondering how much power the stock bottom end will take before destruction? going to intsall valley girdle and main support as well.
a stock block general speaking will only support 450-500 @ crank
or 6-8 psi boost.....

JMO a main support is a waste of money unless you are spinning the motor over 7500 rpm....

from what i have seen the valley girdle will just hold it together where it is cracked..... save your money buy a good oil pan /windage tray combo.....

with all that being said if you want to make big power an aftermarket block will be in your future......
 

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Neither one of those girdles will do anything to help, its the arp main studs that help, but the blocks crack at the bolt hole for the main registers, then to the webbing, then cam tunnel then finally the lifter valley. Also keep in mind just replacing stock main bolts with arp main studs, the main bearing clearances will change since the tq and clamping load of the stud is far different than a stock bolt. There are plenty of people that have done it with no ill effects but that doesnt make it right, your spending alot of money, do it right.
 

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Hey Matt. Reggie nailed it. The key is low, single digit boost and keep the RPMs around 5500 max for a somewhat reliable setup. GET A GOOD TUNE. Also, keep in mind that the stock hypers in the 93's (not sure your model) "usually" won't last long. I've asked the same question on a different site dedicated to turbo setups for my MPT 70. The majority reply what Reggie and I have stated. Obviously there are a few exceptions.
 

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hey guys, if the arp main studs change the bearing clearances then that should cause other problems. so are u suggesting that i put a shortblock in as well? i dont plan on reving the car over 5500 rpm. what are u refering to when u say hypers?
 
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hey guys, if the arp main studs change the bearing clearances then that should cause other problems. so are u suggesting that i put a shortblock in as well? i dont plan on reving the car over 5500 rpm. what are u refering to when u say hypers?
Hyper = Hypereutectic Pistons

“Hypereutectic” means over eutectic. The word eutectic refers to a condition in chemistry when two elements can be alloyed together on a molecular level, but only up to a specific percentage, at which point any additional secondary element will retain a distinct separate form.


Forged versus Cast
When a piston is cast the alloy is heated until liquid, then poured into a mould to create the basic shape. After the alloy cools and solidifies it is removed from the mould and the rough casting is machined to its final shape. For applications which require stronger pistons, a forging process is used.
In the forging process the rough casting is placed in a die set while it is still hot and semi-solid. A hydraulic press is used to place the rough slug under tremendous pressure. This removes any possible porosity and also pushes the alloy grains together tighter than can be achieved by simple casting alone. The result is a much stronger material.
Hypereutectic pistons can be forged but typically are only cast because the extra expense of forging is not justified when cast pistons are considered strong enough for stock applications.
Aftermarket performance pistons made from the most common 4032 and 2618 alloys are typically forged.

in the case of a stock block i would use arp main bolts.....
 

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thanks for the explaination on the pistons reggie. if i do stick with the stock block for the time being and intsall the main studs, will the change in bearing clearance be a problem?
 

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thanks for the explaination on the pistons reggie. if i do stick with the stock block for the time being and intsall the main studs, will the change in bearing clearance be a problem?
Bearing clearance will change period, how much? Thats up to the engine builder/assembler who is doing the work. You are using a different faster with a different torque value, different clamping load versus how it was assembled at the factory. Heres an easy way to look at it and understand. Ford set the main bearing clearance at .0015 thats one and one half thousand using stock ford main bolts. Now you put in a stud that requires you to torque that nut much higher than ford specs, it will close up that bearing clearance originally set at ford, no two ways around it, now its up the engine guy to determine if the new clearances on the main bearings are ok, if not you need to alter them.
 

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Bearing clearance will change period, how much? Thats up to the engine builder/assembler who is doing the work. You are using a different faster with a different torque value, different clamping load versus how it was assembled at the factory. Heres an easy way to look at it and understand. Ford set the main bearing clearance at .0015 thats one and one half thousand using stock ford main bolts. Now you put in a stud that requires you to torque that nut much higher than ford specs, it will close up that bearing clearance originally set at ford, no two ways around it, now its up the engine guy to determine if the new clearances on the main bearings are ok, if not you need to alter them.
+1, shop (good/reputable) that does this everyday will know how to handle this. Believe me they will list it in the machining bill!:hihi:
 
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