[SilverStallion]

Can ayone suggest a trick to get the two plastic trim pieces removed to access the ignition switch? I want to access power for my Autometer gauges from this sources and can't get the column trim pieces apart...not sure if I squeeze and pul, etc.

I do not want to break anything.

Thanks,

~Darren

 

[Markthebarber]

Can ayone suggest a trick to get the two plastic trim pieces removed to access the ignition switch? I want to access power for my Autometer gauges from this sources and can't get the column trim pieces apart...not sure if I squeeze and pul, etc.

I do not want to break anything.

Thanks,

~Darren

It is very funny that you just posted this. I was just outside finishing up my install of my Autometer Phantom II boost gauge. It is extremely easy to get power from this location. This is under the steering wheel. There are 2 screws one of the left bottom and right bottom that hold the plastic cover. Once those are removed simply pull the piece out towards you. I believe there are just 3 tension clips holding it in. Then unscrew the one little screw on the lower left side of the part that holds the setup, info and light buttons. Once thats that comes out, again pull this straight out towards you. It is also held in by tension clips. There are 3 wiring harnesses connected. Connect your ground wire to the white and orange wire coming out of the dimmer wire harness. Then you connect your power wire to the violet and grey wire coming out of the other harness. Refer to this if you need help Ford Service Manuals - Wiring Diagrams . I have HIDs so it may be different. This will automatically light up the gauge when your lights come on. Once the car is locked the gauges shut off. If I saw this post earlier I would have taken pictures while it was all apart. Hope this helps.

 

[Strange Mud]

I just had mine apart to put in a alarm, after removing the lower knee bolster and metal bolster plate their are 3 torx screws on bottom squeeze the lower housing and pull towards you and down. the front should open up like a clam shell. It's a pain. I would look elsewhere for power.....

 

[Markthebarber]

I just had mine apart to put in a alarm, after removing the lower knee bolster and metal bolster plate their are 3 torx screws on bottom squeeze the lower housing and pull towards you and down. the front should open up like a clam shell. It's a pain. I would look elsewhere for power.....

Yea exactly, that's why I would go with where I said. :bigthumbsup

 

[SilverStallion]

Thanks for the response. A couple of questions. Where are you getting power for your gauge so that it comes on with the ignition? My Electric Temp. Gauge and a Volt Meter is what I am installing, and I need to access power with the ignition on only. I then want the gauge to light up with the headlights on. At this point, I had it wired into the passenger side kick panel parking lights however, if there is a way to do it all on the driver's side, this would be better.

Is your boost gauge electric or mechanical? Just trying to gauge if we are speaking about the same thing.

I have HIDs as well however, I am installing the Ultralite classics with the small traditional light in behind for night.
Thanks!

~Darren

 

[Markthebarber]

Thanks for the response. A couple of questions. Where are you getting power for your gauge so that it comes on with the ignition? My Electric Temp. Gauge and a Volt Meter is what I am installing, and I need to access power with the ignition on only. I then want the gauge to light up with the headlights on. At this point, I had it wired into the passenger side kick panel parking lights however, if there is a way to do it all on the driver's side, this would be better.

Is your boost gauge electric or mechanical? Just trying to gauge if we are speaking about the same thing.

I have HIDs as well however, I am installing the Ultralite classics with the small traditional light in behind for night.
Thanks!

~Darren

Sorry for the delayed response. I am using a mechanical gauge but it still needs power to light it. The wire I used worked well for me since I only need power running to it when my headlights go on. Hope you get it figured out.

 

[SilverStallion]

Thank you...
Another question - how did you tap into your wire? Did you solder or did you use a scotck lock style clip?

Thanks!

~Darren

 

[Markthebarber]

Thank you...
Another question - how did you tap into your wire? Did you solder or did you use a scotck lock style clip?

Thanks!

~Darren

These were the taps that I found worked the best.
Browsing Store - WIRE TAP CONNECTOR 18-14. You can find them at radioshack and they also come with the female end that connects to the new wire being attached. They usually come in a 3 pack and I found the size 18-22 gauge worked the best. Hope this helps.

 

[Strange Mud]

I found ign wires that were live in run/start in a connector on the drivers side mounted to the left knee bolster brace. The connector had 12-20 wires and mounted to the curved brace on the left. Easy to get to. I used wire nuts, I've had good luck with them just tape them after.