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Hey i have a question for all of you about starting up my 66 mustang 289. It hasn't been started in about 20 years and want to make sure I'm going about this procedure correctly. recently I've started a 77 dodge pickup that hasn't been started in about 20 years again and we changed spark plugs,battery and turned the engine to make sure that it could but now with my mustang I'll probably change spark plugs, wires, coil(as it was broken) heat up oil pan, change oil, oil filter, battery and turn it. Am i missing anything or does that sound about right?
 

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I've heard you pull the spark plugs and spray WD40 into the cylinder before turning it and doing everything else you mention
 

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Hey i have a question for all of you about starting up my 66 mustang 289. It hasn't been started in about 20 years and want to make sure I'm going about this procedure correctly. recently I've started a 77 dodge pickup that hasn't been started in about 20 years again and we changed spark plugs,battery and turned the engine to make sure that it could but now with my mustang I'll probably change spark plugs, wires, coil(as it was broken) heat up oil pan, change oil, oil filter, battery and turn it. Am i missing anything or does that sound about right?
Do this plus what 2manystangs says about the wd40. Did you turn it by hand to make sure the engine didn't seize?
 
J

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Agree with the hand-turning and wd-40. After 20 years rings rusted to the bores can happen, this will gently break them loose. wd-40 is combustible and burns right off.

I like to crank the engine with all the plugs out -- build up oil pressure and get the fuel pumping without straining the starter as much.

You'll definitely need to address the fuel system as well. Inspect all hoses, the tank, etc. A good chance your fuel-pump diaphragm and parts in the carb have shriveled up. You may need to plan to rebuild your carb, replace your fuel pump. At minimum a new filter would be a good idea to start.
 

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I recommend removing the gas tank and sending it out to get professionally cleaned and then replacing your fuel lines and fuel pump. The reason is that old gas turns to varnish and that will seize your valves. Also rebuild the carb.

Remove the oil pan and give it a cleaning. There's probably a layer of sludge in there that you don't want in your engine.

WD40 in your cylinders as others have suggested. Leave the plugs out, remove the distributor and use a $15 priming shaft and an electric drill to get fresh oil flowing throughout the entire engine. Check the flow under the valve covers.

Treat this as an initial start on a new motor and your chance of success will be much greater.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
alright i'll try the wd-40 and yeah ill just going to cut the fuel line and run it into a gascan as i am going to rebuild the car and clean the tank later. yeah i was planning on hand cranking the. i guess that's all so i'll get to it. ill tell you how it all works
 

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Instead of WD-40, I've always used diesel or kerosene. They are great for loosening up cylinders, won't hurt anything, leave an oily film.
Put it in the cylinders, not much, a tablespoon or two is plenty. Let it sit a day or so, then try turning the engine by hand. If you use the starter and something is jammed it could hurt the ring gear, a rod , piston, etc.

Once everything is moving freely by hand, drain the oil, put fresh oil and filter, spin it over with a priming shaft / drill to pre-lube. Once done, spin with the starter to be sure all works well. If it spins free the put in plugs and try.

Oh and use fresh gas and lines as I'm sure the old stuff is gummed up and dried out.

Above all..... Have a fire extinguisher handy AT ALL TIMES!

Good luck
Jeff
 

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that sounds kinda strange... would it burn it off?
WD40 makes a great starter fluid because it's high octane. It will burn off quickly. I use it in the spark plug holes of all my 2-cycle motors as well. It's the secret to getting my jet ski fired up every spring.
 

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well today i removed spark plugs, changed battery and battery wires, took off valve covers and put Marvel Mystery Oil on the rockers, put WD-40 in the cylinders, changed oil and oil filter, changed ignition coil changed spark plug wires and then ran out of time. not bad for one day though :gringreen Tomorrow i'll flush radiator, change radiator hoses and hand crank. should i watch the rockers when i crank it? i'll let you know how it all goes!:bounce2:
 

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I would also pull the distributor and prime the oil pump until you see the oil running out around the rockers. Turn crank by hand 1/4 turn then prime some more, etc.
 

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I would also pull the distributor and prime the oil pump until you see the oil running out around the rockers. Turn crank by hand 1/4 turn then prime some more, etc.
Yeah i checked the distributor and the rotor looked great along with the cap so i let it be and i was wondering about that, how is the oil pumped in the 66?
 

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The distributor gear is run off the camshaft; the oil pump driveshaft is driven of the base of the distributor. Use a hex socket with a magnetic tip to remove the shaft and temporarily replace it with a priming tool shaft. The priming shaft gets turned by a portable drill.
 

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There is supposed to be a clip on the oil pump shaft to PREVENT it from coming out of the block. If that is still in place you can't remove the shaft without a LOT of effort.

With the distributor out you can buy a set of adapters at AutoZone or wherever that fit in place of the distributor that will prime nearly any engine ever built using your electric drill and the shaft that can't be removed.
 

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Run a gas IV .... thats I said a gas IV. You get a wire coat hanger and snip in half leaving the hooked end intact. A clear condiment container and plastic fuel line hose. You cut the bottom of the condiment container off and put two holes towards the bottom. Now grab the coat hanger and loop the ends so the you can attach the condiment container. Cut the nipple of the condiment container about a 1/4 inch off and attach the fuel line hose. remove the engines fuel from the fuel filter attached to the carburetor and now place the fuel line from the condiment container to the fuel filter. (be sure to put a new fuel filter on before you do this to make sure the fuel filter is not plugged. Fill the condiment container carefully. Now get an empty 5 gallon container or gas can and run the fuel line from the fuel pump to here the gas can or 5 gallon container. this will catch the old gas from the fuel tank and help empty the fuel tank before you remove it.

This worked wonderfully for me. I did have a fire extinguisher just in case and I re-filler the condiment container while the motor was running. Have a small funnel and and measuring cup to be used to pour additional gas into the make shift IV.
 

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well boys i got it stated today!:yup: definitely will need to replace the pulleys as they are making scary noises but runs and idles great! will need to check the oil level again but if someone is wondering what i did to make this start here it is

-took off valve covers, put plenty of marvel mystery oil on the heads, let that sit.
-replaced all bad parts, for me it was the ignition coil
-replaced thermostat and coolant and coolant hoses (i also replaced radiator as it had no cap and didn't want to deal with the gunk)
-removed spark plugs for turning the engine and put WD-40 in the cylinders
-turned motor by hand and made sure the rockers were moving
-put new valve covers on
-made sure battery cables were fine and got a new battery
-replaced oil and oil filter
-changed spark plugs, spark plug wires, made sure the distributor was fine and the rotor in it was good
-replaced belt (probably would have been good to replace pulleys)
-cleaned carburetor changed fuel lines and put new gas in
- finally hooked up the battery and started the bad boy

I hope this will help someone else out as it has helped me. Thank you all again!
 
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Congratulations! Please do watch the accelerator pump on your carb, that has to be very dried out by now. In the 'old days' they'd recommend a rebuild on the carb every couple of years. If the pump diaphragm leaks, it will squirt fuel right onto your hot intake manifold. Wouldn't want that to be a sad end to your happy story. Takes just a few minutes to change the accelerator pump diaphragm. :smilie
 

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Using the priming shaft????

I recommend removing the gas tank and sending it out to get professionally cleaned and then replacing your fuel lines and fuel pump. The reason is that old gas turns to varnish and that will seize your valves. Also rebuild the carb.

Remove the oil pan and give it a cleaning. There's probably a layer of sludge in there that you don't want in your engine.

WD40 in your cylinders as others have suggested. Leave the plugs out, remove the distributor and use a $15 priming shaft and an electric drill to get fresh oil flowing throughout the entire engine. Check the flow under the valve covers.

Treat this as an initial start on a new motor and your chance of success will be much greater.
I am in the same position. I have a 67 with a 289 and have already replaced the gas tank, fuel lines, fuel pump, rebuilt the carb and changed the fluids. I was told to put Marvel Mystery oil in each plug hole, let it sit for 24-48 hours and then use a breaker bar to turn the motor. Add a little more MMO and follow the previous instructions. Then spot start the motor with the plugs out to force out any of the MMO still up top. Pull the distributor and use the priming tool. My question is do set the drill for clockwise rotation or counter clockwise? Thanks for your help.
 

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Yup. Since the oil pump is driven by the distributor gear, its the same rotation.

When priming, you can use a simple mechanical oil pressure gauge and check that you have adequate pressure for the bearings. Remember that these are "plain" bearings that rely on pressure to work properly. Rule of thumb is 10 psi per 1000 crankshaft rpm. Since the distributor is driven off the camshaft, that means 10 psi for every 500 rpm of your priming drill.
 
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