Ford Mustang Forum banner
Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 28 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Any suggestions appreciated. I was going to try and re-tap with a lot of grease before towing to the dealer for the imminent raping. Thanks. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So the head is galled?
I think I can get enough bite to rethread, hopefully it is not just wishful thinking. The plug still sits in the pit elvated on what was once threads. I thought this plug blow out issue was supposedly resolved before the 3v.
 

·
Premium Member
1965 Mustang coupe
Joined
·
72,878 Posts
I think I can get enough bite to rethread, hopefully it is not just wishful thinking. The plug still sits in the pit elvated on what was once threads. I thought this plug blow out issue was supposedly resolved before the 3v.
Your's is the first. Think it'll need a helicoil?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Your's is the first. Think it'll need a helicoil?
Does that work okay on aluminum mod heads? I'll try anything before submission to the dealership. Thanks for the input. If anything works, then I'll post it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
181 Posts
Does that work okay on aluminum mod heads? I'll try anything before submission to the dealership. Thanks for the input. If anything works, then I'll post it.
Helicore will work on aluminum, I had to do it on a 5.0 aluminum head several years ago. Since the 3v head is tapered you should be able to plug off the lower hole to keep shavings out of the combusion chamber. Is your warranty gone?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Helicore will work on aluminum, I had to do it on a 5.0 aluminum head several years ago. Since the 3v head is tapered you should be able to plug off the lower hole to keep shavings out of the combustion chamber. Is your warranty gone?
Yup, warranty gone. I have been reading up and apparently it is important to go easy on the anti-seize with plug change even on our long threaded plug heads. Thanks for the reply.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
get a new head dude...that's what they are going to tell u at the delear.... might as well upgrade ur heads and do it somewheres else..... i wouldn't try to fix that... just my opinion
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
188 Posts
I recommend you NOT take it to a dealer for repair. Ford tech manual specifically states that thread repair is not authorized -- replace the heads. That will be expensive. Go to a good, reputable shop and have the helicoil inserts. Or if the thread is too thin, install a Calvan Tools insert - it is stronger than the original threads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,161 Posts
I don't think a Heli-coil will work for this. Let me explain. The design of the spark plug hole with it being necked down where the projection goes in the head, essentially makes it similar to rethreading a blind hole. I don't think you will be able to tap the hole all the way to the bottom of the thread area, unless you have a bottoming tap, which I don't know if there is such a thing in a Heli-coil tap. The second problem is trying to break off the tang on the insert. That may also be difficult.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
get a new head dude...that's what they are going to tell u at the delear.... might as well upgrade ur heads and do it somewheres else..... i wouldn't try to fix that... just my opinion
I just got extremely lucky. Apparently, being an obsessive-compulsive type, I must've over applied anti-seize. I guess the plug backed out most of the way and only stripped the last two threads in the head. I used one of my original (non 0) platinum plugs and the left over "special grease" from my CHE UCA and did a he-man/hail Mary re-threading of the head. I then micro-filed the starting thread on the Ford Racing plug to a point where it could potentially get a good start in in the re-threaded head. Torqued up to 25 ft-lbs w/out issue. Just did a WOT run and had no projectiles through the hood. The only damage was a new coil pack, since the plug ejection broke the mounting arm on the CP and released the spring ($97 @ the dealer!). Guess I got lucky with the trajectory of the plug discharge as well as the Ford Racing plug was lying between the cylinder head cover and the Whipple intake manifold. The popping when it ran plug less produced only to DTC numbers, P 0354 (ignition coil primary/secondary) and P 1000 (OBD System Readiness Test Not complete). I guess with an open cylinder running, emissions out of spec. would be inevitable. So, I take back my criticism about the 3V design as it is about twice the thread depth of the old 4V aluminum heads. It was purely anti-seize zealotry that caused this issue and I shoulder complete irresponsibility on the issue; other zealots should take heed. Special thanks to all with good wishes and great advice. Time to celebrate and put the Whipple smack down on the first trash talking import driver that has an issue with "new" American Muscle.
:happyhapp :happyhapp :happyhapp :happyhapp :happyhapp :happyhapp :happyhapp :happyhapp
 

·
Premium Member
1965 Mustang coupe
Joined
·
72,878 Posts
Wow... Wasn't expecting things to go that well. I may zip outside and retorque all my plugs. I've had 4 come loose in the past.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wow... Wasn't expecting things to go that well. I may zip outside and re-torque all my plugs. I've had 4 come loose in the past.
Yeah, I just did another DTC check with the Predator and it is all good; no codes. Had to pull off the intake feed to the Whipple and re-torque all the plugs. All of them, including #4, held torque. It is a distinct possibility after retrospective examination that my mechanic's assistant is to blame. #4 was the last plug I torqued in the install of the Whipple and it is entirely possible that I may have not sufficiently torqued it to spec since I had just consulted my assistant, Mr. Corona. Perhaps negligence and overexuberance in anti-seize were the combination to this mishap.:hihi:

I don't want to trigger a plug tightening frenzy. Thanks again for the guidance provided.
:bigthumbsup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Yeah, I just did another DTC check with the Predator and it is all good; no codes. Had to pull off the intake feed to the Whipple and re-torque all the plugs. All of them, including #4, held torque. It is a distinct possibility after retrospective examination that my mechanic's assistant is to blame. #4 was the last plug I torqued in the install of the Whipple and it is entirely possible that I may have not sufficiently torqued it to spec since I had just consulted my assistant, Mr. Corona. Perhaps negligence and overexuberance in anti-seize were the combination to this mishap.:hihi:

I don't want to trigger a plug tightening frenzy. Thanks again for the guidance provided.
:bigthumbsup
Trust me you have, ten thousand people have ran out and re torqued their plugs!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Trust me you have, ten thousand people have ran out and re torqued their plugs!
So, I just saved thousands of Mustang owners potential ultimate grief? Cool. Do I get a cookie or something?
:happydance:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No, but you have our undying gratitude :hihi:
Just reread the F150 TSB. I guess one salient point is that anti-seize does not go on the threads, only the electrode shaft under the threads. I know experienced S197ers have probably covered this many times. Perhaps newbies like myself will learn two things. Take out plugs with torque wrench set at "L' and at 35 ft-lbs and keep lube off the threads to reduce risk of plug breakage or ejection.
 

·
Premium Member
1965 Mustang coupe
Joined
·
72,878 Posts
Just reread the F150 TSB. I guess one salient point is that anti-seize does not go on the threads, only the electrode shaft under the threads. I know experienced S197ers have probably covered this many times. Perhaps newbies like myself will learn two things. Take out plugs with torque wrench set at "L' and at 35 ft-lbs and keep lube off the threads to reduce risk of plug breakage or ejection.
I've always applied a thin coating of nickel anti-seize to the threads.
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top