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Discussion Starter #1
A few weeks ago I bought this off a seller on ebay. It was advertised as an Auburn, not clear on the model. That's where I need someone who is very knowledgeable on differentials to help identify it. This is supposed to go into a 7.5 rear and I am planning on putting 3.73 gears on it. I've attached pictures of the differential from every angle I can think of and of every identifying mark I could see. The problem is the mechanism looks like auburn but its a two piece carrier design that I have never seen before on any of the parts websites. If you know anyone who knows differentials, have them chime in.
 

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That is the basic Auburn LSD. I hope they sent you the special C-clips that go with that or you'll not get 3:73 gears on it. Otherwise, it is stronger than the factory Ford LSD units for hte 3.7" rear. Better clutches and stronger grip. I have one sitting in my toolbox, I just went and looked at it and it is the same as what you got.

http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/product_details.aspx?SKU=Ford 7 1/2, 10 Bolt&ReturnURL=/aftermarket/product_listing.aspx?Category=177c81e2-c480-4a6a-9137-2f095fce82a5&page=1&pagesize=9&text=&EPCString1=&EPCString2=&EPCString3=
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't understand why there are no pictures of it anywhere.

they didn't send me the c-washers or the pinion shaft. but i dont see why the factory pinion shaft wont work, it's still round and doesnt poke out of the carrier. what's so special about these c-washers they talk about?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
looking more closely at the diff and the pinion shaft i understand why they say to use their special one with the milled face on it (which i could have done to the factory one) however i do not see why it needs special c-clips. passenger side c-clip should go in with no interference from the ring gear's larger height. driver's side would be tight i guess
 

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Discussion Starter #6
how does one check if it's worn out, i knew about how it's non-rebuildable
 

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The best way to check is to disassemlbe the unit and see how far down the cones sit in the holes. If the cones are bottomed out in the holes then it's shot. If they have about .050 inch before they bottom out then it's got a lot left in it. Another way to check is to see how much free play there is in the pinion gears. If they are real loose then the cones are pretty deep in the holes. You can also stick an axle in each side and see if you can turn them easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
aw nuts. the one side feels loose the other feels fairly snug. i suppose that means it's pretty well gone then?

i have this sort of dental pick thing and reaching down from the passenger axle side identified the side face of the cone. i can feel that there is still space there but feels like only .020". ( i stuck the pick into the space and measured the thickness of the part that got dirty with a set of calipers) so my method isnt too accurate but it should give a general idea. other side read about .030". have any advice?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yep i can feel that rounded lip in the case and i also knew about the big step in the bottom side of that cone. i feel the lip then it flattens out and then i can feel the space between the bottom of the cone and the case. so those measurements should be relatively close to accurate.
 
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