Addendum:
I also just pulled the IAC off, disconnected the sensor end, and hosed the "valve" end out. It wasn't too nasty, but did have a little carbon. No effect on the problem.

Also pulled the EGR, the bottom chamber was almost clogged with carbon buildup, cleaned that, the TB didn't have too bad a coating in it.
Got a new multi meter, TPS was at .93, now at .967.

Anybody? Bueller?

Jorge

Check this thread out, its about servicing the 10-pin connectors on the upper intake

http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10805&page=1&pp=35

Lots of other good idle troubleshooting suggestions there too.

I bet it is the iac valve.

If you removed the IAC valve and nothing noticable... like stalling.. happened, it sounds dead to me.

Ghost,that's why I said iac.

Does anyone know of a way to test the iac motor to make sure before I plop down the $ for a new one?
BTW, GhostDog, check your PM's

Thanks
J

An exhaust leak can wreak havoc with EEC, especially if it occurs before the O2 sensor. It sounds like your secondary air (what the smog pump pumps) is inoperative on the left (driver's?) side. Check all of the smog pump plumbing, especially the hose next to the pass. side header. Check all of your vacuum lines too, because if it's fairly stock, it should be pulling 15 pounds of vacuum.

Hmmm...thats something to consider. I have had problems with the air pump before, I replaced it before we moved, (the pulley was frozen, but I wasnt shocked, considering it had sat for 2 years) the new pulley only lasted about a year before this happened:


I've checked the vac lines, actually went through and found 2-3 bad ones a couple of weeks ago, but I'll re check em.
Thanks again guys

J

BTW, wouldn't a leak/problem like that show up as a code, for instance a prob with the o2 sensor?

meangreen92 said:

An exhaust leak can wreak havoc with EEC, especially if it occurs before the O2 sensor. It sounds like your secondary air (what the smog pump pumps) is inoperative on the left (driver's?) side. Check all of the smog pump plumbing, especially the hose next to the pass. side header. Check all of your vacuum lines too, because if it's fairly stock, it should be pulling 15 pounds of vacuum.

Click to expand...

You can unplug the IAC while the motor is idling, and if the idle doesn't change (the motor should about stall if IAC is working) then the IAC is probably bad. Now that I think about it, your exhaust is probably OK. I just know that the headers on mine rusted out and developed leaks around the welds for the flange that hooks up to the H-pipe, and the car was running way rich - but I was getting lean codes. And you're not, so I'm thinking this is all in your emission system.
The pump sends the air,first, to a valve which EITHER dumps the pumped air out into the engine bay, OR, sends the air to the next valve. This next valve EITHER routes the air to that tubing which connects to the backs of your heads, OR, down to the converters. There are also check valves
where the hoses connect to prevent exhaust from entering the air passages. Only, can air enter the exhaust. These two valves I described, are controlled by vacuum, which is regulated (on or off) by the two smaller solenoids mounted on the rear of your pass. side strut-tower. The larger one does the EGR. EEC tells these solenoids to open or close. It sounds like they're electronicly OK, but inspect them for cracking (mine looked like water had froze in 'em). The EGR system works the same way. My EGR solenoid was clogged, but I just hooked a battery (9-12 volts) up to it and blew through it - easy cure.
Check all of the associated vacuum lines carefully, they're probably brittle. I just replaced mine with rubber hose and vacuum tees. Also there is a vacuum reservoir inside your fender well - make sure this is connected (or the line is plugged). There is a check valve which goes to the reservoir, it is up by the solenoids. I don't think it can create any noticable problems, but mine was bad.
I suspect that your problem is a leaking or kinked hose in the pumped-air circuit, because the right side of the engine (where the pumped air goes first) is OK. Check that big hose which run along your pass. side strut tower. Equal length headers will burn a hole in that hose. But also check every hose and tube in the circuit - from the pump to the heads and converters - that's where I suspect the problem lies. The only other thing that could cause (or indicate) a smog-pumped-air problem on one side, would be a bad O2 sensor or maybe an exhaust leak. But judging from the noise you described, I'd say that something is leaking. That could also be an exhaust port-to-header leak. When the car is idling, use a vacuum hose held to your ear to pinpoint the leak sound.
A plugged converter might be the ultimate culprit.

Thanks for the info man, I'll check it out...If I can keep it running long enough.
Going to work tonight, the car started dying for no apparent reason every 2-3 seconds, even if I was on the gas. It was like the ignition was turned off. It took me 7-8 tried just to get through the intersection where it started, and coast into a parking lot....
I tried cranking it again, and it was running fine (or as well as it had been) and I was able to drive home...WTF...
I just found out how to check the IAC, and the solenoid seems ok, so the troubleshooting shall continue