Idler Arm and camber issue

1060 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by raydav, Dec 9, 2021

Old_car_new_mechanic

Discussion Starter · Dec 6, 2021

I wanted to replace the old OEM idler arm on my 65 6 cylinder w/ manual steering. I bought an after market replacement from CJ pony parts and now my camber is way off. Every time I drive down the road I have severe negative camber ruining the tires. The funny part is when I put the car in reverse the tires wobble around and then go to positive camber. So the camber flips back and forth. This problem did not exist when I have the old idler arm on. Therefore the only thing that I did was replace the idler arm and then the wheels wobble around.

I thought perhaps something happened with the rest of the steering so I have bought brand new steering components and replaced just about everything. New tie rods (inner and outer), new center link, and new adjustment sleeves. However, I still have this issue with the camber.

I have tried adjusting the toe 9 times. I am not exaggerating...9 times. No matter what I do to adjust the sleeves for the toe, it still has horrible camber. This leaves me to believe that somehow the bad idler arm prevented the camber issue.

I am for sure that it is not an issue with the camber itself because I did not take any shims away from the upper control arms before or after the idler arm replacement. So the only thing that caused the camber to go out was changing out the idler arm. I want to know if it is an issue with the aftermarket idler arm, and if I need to go ahead and purchase a working OEM original idler arm just like the one that I took off.

Basically, does replacing the OEM idler arm with an aftermarket one that is different going to cause my camber to change drastically from positive to negative while driving?

After-Market OEM

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07redstang

· #2 · Dec 7, 2021

Thats because the idler arm and toe adjustments have nothing to do with your camber settings. Take your car and get a front end alignment.

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Old_car_new_mechanic

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 7, 2021

07redstang said:
Thats because the idler arm and toe adjustments have nothing to do with your camber settings. Take your car and get a front end alignment.

yes but like I said, the car drove just fine before I replaced the idler arm. Changing out the idler arm should not cause the camber to become all messed up.

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crjackson

· #4 · Dec 7, 2021

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Please tell us why you think the problem is camber?

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Grimbrand

· #5 · Dec 7, 2021

If there is play due to worn parts, your toe will change dramatically based on forward or rearward travel. Perhaps this is in part what's going on? Your ball joints and tie rod connectors in particular can have an effect, as can the strut rods that locate your lower control arms. The rubber doughnuts that "V" forward toward the front of your car will wear out, and get sloppy, allowing a range of motion for the lower control arm that is unacceptable.

If your problem is related to actual camber change, that would indicate extremely worn ball joints or perhaps issues with your control arm pivot points. I'd check those for wear. If you jack your tire, can you wiggle it around? This could even be a wheel bearing problem!

In answer to your question: No. Unless it's a very different part from the original, your idler arm can't make these changes happen all by itself.

Welcome to AFM!

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Tony 64

· #6 · Dec 7, 2021

You have badly worn suspension components, I would be check the upper and lower control arms for wear.
Problem would have been already there, you just never noticed until now.

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07redstang

· #7 · Dec 7, 2021

Old_car_new_mechanic said:
yes but like I said, the car drove just fine before I replaced the idler arm. Changing out the idler arm should not cause the camber to become all messed up.

Again, the idler arm will not affect camber settings. As stated above, you have other issues that need to be resolved. Inspect for other worn parts, replace as necessary, and have an alignment done at a real front end shop. Not a franchised place like Pep Boys, Midas, or such but someone that specializes in alignments.

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Old_car_new_mechanic

Discussion Starter · #8 · Dec 7, 2021

Grimbrand said:
If there is play due to worn parts, your toe will change dramatically based on forward or rearward travel. Perhaps this is in part what's going on? Your ball joints and tie rod connectors in particular can have an effect, as can the strut rods that locate your lower control arms. The rubber doughnuts that "V" forward toward the front of your car will wear out, and get sloppy, allowing a range of motion for the lower control arm that is unacceptable.

If your problem is related to actual camber change, that would indicate extremely worn ball joints or perhaps issues with your control arm pivot points. I'd check those for wear. If you jack your tire, can you wiggle it around? This could even be a wheel bearing problem!

In answer to your question: No. Unless it's a very different part from the original, your idler arm can't make these changes happen all by itself.

Welcome to AFM!

Thank you very much. I have been reading posts here for a while and I figured I would like to be a part of it more.

I jacked the wheel up and I suppose I feel play in just about everything else. I have a full front end kit and it comes with new ball joints, lower control arms and I know how to adjust the play in the wheel bearing with the lock nuts. I have jacked up the car several times and it seems like the only explanation that I can come up with is the ball joints. However, how come this was all "hidden" until I raised the car up in the air to replace the idler arm. Did everything finally just give out?

Tony 64 said:
You have badly worn suspension components, I would be check the upper and lower control arms for wear.
Problem would have been already there, you just never noticed until now.

Probably right. At any rate do you have a suggestion for getting a spring compressor? I have spoken to many mechanics and from what I understand it's a unique spring compressor that works by compressing from the shock tower point. Do popular auto part stores offer a loan a tool program for this spring compressor?

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Grimbrand

· #9 · Dec 7, 2021

If the spring compressor has three 'jaws' to it and a long screw, it's a good one. You can get 'em pretty cheap at Harbor Freight, or maybe borrow it from a local parts store!

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raydav

· #10 · Dec 9, 2021

A serious spring compressor for that car has a bolt and plate inside the spring, not "fingers" on the outside.

Look about half way down. this album. There are two pics of such a tool. Mine is home brew, but a parts store might have a real one to loan.

1-Mustang 351W-427W 1965

169 new items · Album by Ray Davison

goo.gl

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