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:bounce2: Finally installed my CHE performance LCA's. What a easy job. It took all of a hour and a half. Took it out for a blast and ran .4 and 4mph better than my best prior run. I'll get to the track on Friday if the weather is good. Had no more wheel hop on the street.:bigthumbsup
 

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Update.
Just got back from cruising around and all I can say is if you are only going to do one mod to your Mustang, this should be it. Overall drivabilty and ride quality improved dramaticly. Driving over washboard intersections was smoothed out considerably, handling is improved, way more stable when powering through a curve and wheel hop is gone. I highly recommend this mod.:bigthumbsup :bigthumbsup If you correct the quarter mile time and mph for the alltitude I'm at(2200 ft) it works out to 13.49 at 105 mph. Not to shabby for a stocker with a CAI.
 

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LCAs are great! I'd also recommend doing the upper control arm (3rd link) too. It helps to maintain pinion angle and prevents axle counter-rotation.
 

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brandobama said:
I guess nobody else is going to ask so I will. What exactly are LCAs? I like what you say they do. How much dinaro?
Lower Control Arms. Anywhere from $100-$300 depending if you get the chromoly steel or billet aluminum. Just about any aftermarket are better than stock. It's all in the bushings.
 

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Are the billet aluminum better than the the chrome-molly steel? If the car is lowered, with a panhard bar, is the upper control arm requried? I have upgraded my suspension, but have not yet done this upgrade, but it looks like I may be doing it soon.
 

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Billet aluminum just looks fancier. It's the bushings that really matter. I'd also recommend doing an adjustable 3rd link (UCA) so you can adjust pinion angle if you lower the car. Adjustable panhard rod is also a good idea to keep the axle centered side-to-side. BMR and CHE make good quality stuff and it isn't too expensive. The Steeda control arms are quite a bit more.
 

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Can they be installed without a lift and special tools? Just basic wrenches?

What mods are the adj. LCA's and UCA's good for in the future?
 

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tw0scoops123 said:
Can they be installed without a lift and special tools? Just basic wrenches?
One of the easiest mods there is. Just a couple of wrenches and a floor jack.

One hour, TOPS.
 

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Which would be better if one could be. Steeda billet LCA's $359 or the Steeda chrome moly (blue) control arms for $199. The billet ones are completely different looking than the moly bar set. The moly's look like the CHE product I guess. Bucks for the bling I figure.
 

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I'd go with BMR or CHE. Steeda is a bit overpriced. The billet LCAs are really just for looks. Not really worth the extra expense IMO.
 

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I have the Steeda Crome Molly ones (why on earth they are blue, I don't know) and they work really well. I went to the track this past week end and had zero hop while cleaning off my tires. When I had my stock ones it sounded like my car was going to fall apart from the vibration. They are a good price, and you never see them unless you actually go looking for them any ways.
 

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rancherochido said:
I have the Steeda Crome Molly ones (why on earth they are blue, I don't know) and they work really well. I went to the track this past week end and had zero hop while cleaning off my tires. When I had my stock ones it sounded like my car was going to fall apart from the vibration. They are a good price, and you never see them unless you actually go looking for them any ways.
Yes, chrome molly, but they're blue. Should it be blue molly? Hell, I don't know. Here's a dumb ?. Is there a right and wrong end to install these?:confused:
 

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BTW - I agree that the factory wheel hop sucks on these cars.
(I had to post another comment in order to get the e-mail notification turned on) Sorry
 

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Waxed'05 GT said:
BMR site: www.bmrfabrication.com/2005mustang.htm

For those who know... Which pair is best recommended???
Seems BMR recently changed their non-adjustable style from a tubular to a box. Not sure why. I have the old tubular ones (non-adj). If you go adjustable or non-adjustable, get the poly bushings. The spherical, although great on the track, are clunky since it's just metal on metal.
 

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sonny1213 said:
Yes, chrome molly, but they're blue. Should it be blue molly? Hell, I don't know. Here's a dumb ?. Is there a right and wrong end to install these?:confused:
Chromolly is just a type of steel (has nothing to do with chrome). It is about 30% stronger than mild steel. LCAs will install only one way. They are wider in the rear.
 

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stlwagon said:
Seems BMR recently changed their non-adjustable style from a tubular to a box. Not sure why. I have the old tubular ones (non-adj). If you go adjustable or non-adjustable, get the poly bushings. The spherical, although great on the track, are clunky since it's just metal on metal.
Thanks for the reply. I'll have to get a set before going to the track next year. Would there be an advantage to adjustable? I plan on making it a streetable "dragster" probably ending in low 11's 1/4 mile. This is a VERY long term goal, but don't want to have to buy things twice. This is one big reason I've not purchased cdmp's yet... I may end up with a ts.
 

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Convinced me, I am going to order the BMR LCA's and tower brace next. I want to lower the car but it just seems so easy to trash the bottom of the car with dips and peaks in the road.


DW
 

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Waxed'05 GT said:
Thanks for the reply. I'll have to get a set before going to the track next year. Would there be an advantage to adjustable? I plan on making it a streetable "dragster" probably ending in low 11's 1/4 mile. This is a VERY long term goal, but don't want to have to buy things twice. This is one big reason I've not purchased cdmp's yet... I may end up with a ts.
If the car is or will be lowered, the adjustable LCAs and 3rd link (UCA) are a good idea. 3rd link especially to maintain optimum pinion angle. You may also want to look at LCA relocation brackets. They provide additional rear mounting holes that allow you to alter control arm angles. Good for the strip!
 
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