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I have been silently following Sqidd’s post for months and finally got enough funds together to do the install.

I went with the following parts:
Greenleaf GT500 Shocks, Struts, and Swaybar
Steeda Ultralite Springs
J&M Camber Plates
FRPP Strut Mounts (for the isolator)
Ford Upper Strut Mount Nut
Ford Spindle to Strut Hardware Kit
J&M Panhard Bar

The install took about 8 hours with frequent breaks in the near 100 degree Texas heat using a combination of the Steeda, J&M and Taco Bill instructions. I didn’t change sway bars yet since I didn’t have funds for the rear bar, but I’m very happy with the performance as is and haven’t decided if I will do the sway bars or not.
Since this is my daily driver I decided to pre-assemble the struts and springs ahead of time. This meant I needed to buy the top strut nut and mounts/camber plates. Since I decided to go with camber plates instead of bolts I also needed the upper spring isolator (none of the camber plates I found come with the isolator.) Again with assembly time and simplicity being the priority I ordered some FRPP Strut Mounts (M18183C) just for the isolator. I gently pryed it off of the FRPP mount and pushed them onto the J&M camber plates. Since the Steed springs are shorter than stock I didn’t need a spring compressor to assemble the struts.

The front was pretty easy to do, but I had more trouble with the rear. I’ve had a J&M panhard bar in the garage for a while and this was the obvious time to install it. The problem is I had a lot of trouble getting it installed properly. You have to install it, adjust it, them remove it to tighten the jam nuts. It is also difficult to keep the end bushings parallel when tightening the jam nuts. I also installed the passenger side panhard bar bolt backwards and couldn’t get it out again without disconnecting the rear sway bar again. I recommend a panhard bar with the adjustment and jam nuts towards the center like this BMR bar.

I’m very happy with the stance and ride, but hope it will settle a little lower over the coming months. The ride is firmer, but not harsh. Considering I didn’t change the sway bars the handling is good with reduced understeer and predictable throttle oversteer.

Before and After Measurements (not scientific in any way):

Wheel well height [stock] (lowered)
LF [29”] (28 3/8”)
RF [29”] (28 1/4”)
LR [29 3/4”] (28 3/4”)
RR [29 5/8”] (28 3/4”)

Rear Axle side to side, wheel well to wheel lip [stock] (after panhard bar)
L [7/8”] (1 1/8”)
R [1 3/16”] (1 1/8”)

Thanks Sqidd and AFM

Picture Index:
Working in the Texas heat
New strut/spring installed
Rear in progress
J&M caster plates vs FRPP strut mounts with separated isolator
Assembled struts and springs
Rag stuffed between shock body and car body to hold while tightening the top nut
Rear sway bar, brake line bracket, and shock disconnected
J&M panhard bar vs stock GT
Before
After
 

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The center of the panhard rod sees the most bending load which is why we don't make our panhard rod that way. We have seen lots of the center turnbuckle style bend over the years starting with the old 3rd generation f-body cars.
 

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The center of the panhard rod sees the most bending load which is why we don't make our panhard rod that way. We have seen lots of the center turnbuckle style bend over the years starting with the old 3rd generation f-body cars.
Good to know, once I got it properly adjusted and installed for the last time everything lined up great. BTW I love the camber plates, very nice design at a great price.
 

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Thanks for the write-up. I've been wanting to do the same swap after reading sqidd's thread.

I'm sweating it out in North Texas with you, and I have to add that you must be one bad-ass individual to change the suspension on the concrete in the middle of a 100+ degree Texas summer with just a party canopy for shade and a fan for a breeze. :worship People who aren't from Texas probably don't realize that we wake up to 80+ degree heat and that it's still 95+ at 10 at night. I sweat 3-4 lbs away just washing and drying my car.
 

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I flew to Texas once in the middle of the summer. When I walked out of the airport, it was like I stuck my face in front of an oven after just opening it... I almost turned around to go back inside the air conditioned airport. I hate winter but I think Texas could make me hate summer.

Nice install btw. What was the final price tag if you don't mind me asking?
 

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Thanks for the write-up. I've been wanting to do the same swap after reading sqidd's thread.

I'm sweating it out in North Texas with you, and I have to add that you must be one bad-ass individual to change the suspension on the concrete in the middle of a 100+ degree Texas summer with just a party canopy for shade and a fan for a breeze. :worship People who aren't from Texas probably don't realize that we wake up to 80+ degree heat and that it's still 95+ at 10 at night. I sweat 3-4 lbs away just washing and drying my car.
I guess I'm a gluten for punishment, I'm going to install GT500 (front) lower control arms in the next couple of weeks since my ball joints keep failing (before and after the Squidd suspension install).

I'll do it in the driveway because the West facing brick wall on my Garage heats it up like a pizza oven in the evening, it was 115* in my garage the other night at 11:00 PM.
 

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I flew to Texas once in the middle of the summer. When I walked out of the airport, it was like I stuck my face in front of an oven after just opening it... I almost turned around to go back inside the air conditioned airport. I hate winter but I think Texas could make me hate summer.

Nice install btw. What was the final price tag if you don't mind me asking?
With shipping and taxes it was close to $800, but I went with Caster Camber plates instead of bolts and spent an extra $100 on GT500 Strut Mounts just to get the rubber isolator. This helped me pre-assemble the struts ahead of time without a spring compressor, this was important to me since my free time is limited and this is my daily drive. Also I already had the adjustable Panhard bar and have not bought a rear sway bar yet.

For the time and money I have spent I am very happy with the results.
 

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Great job! Most folks dont realize that when Texans BBQ during the summer we just throw the meat on the driveway and flip it every 5 minutes. :gringreen
 

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With shipping and taxes it was close to $800, but I went with Caster Camber plates instead of bolts and spent an extra $100 on GT500 Strut Mounts just to get the rubber isolator. This helped me pre-assemble the struts ahead of time without a spring compressor, this was important to me since my free time is limited and this is my daily drive. Also I already had the adjustable Panhard bar and have not bought a rear sway bar yet.

For the time and money I have spent I am very happy with the results.
Nice job, just curious if you had it aligned yet? I have Roush springs and Koni shocks/struts. I bought the Eibach bolts, but got rid of them after the install thinking I didn't need them. I'm at -1.4 in the front and I'm told that's not good.
I also have the J&M plates and will yank the front struts out and install. I used the GT500 upper strut mounts and the car rides pretty damn good. :bigthumbsup
 

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Nice job, just curious if you had it aligned yet? I have Roush springs and Koni shocks/struts. I bought the Eibach bolts, but got rid of them after the install thinking I didn't need them. I'm at -1.4 in the front and I'm told that's not good.
I also have the J&M plates and will yank the front struts out and install. I used the GT500 upper strut mounts and the car rides pretty damn good. :bigthumbsup
I don't remember the numbers, but it aligned well. The right side strut lined up almost straight up and down, but the left side needed 3/4 of the adjustment range to get into spec.
 

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i did something similar about the same time.

GT500 Shocks, Struts, Front Mounts, Front and Rear Swaybars but i used FRPP P springs to lower it just 1 inch, i feel like its a tad less then an inch i went down though.

Also got a BMR panhard bar (adj) and BMR camber bolts too.

It took a little getting used to once i started driving it with the lower CG, tires don't squeal nearly as easily though. The steering wheel seems to turn with less effort as well.

And i hear ya about the weather, it was 90+ when i did mine, i ended up doing the rear one day and the front a few days later once my schedule permitted me to the time to get it done.
 

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It is a good price, but there are no specs on the bar. I might call CDC later to see what they say about it.

Thanks for the link.
Seems to me their language allows them to sell a standard GT rear bar.

I'd be certain to find the various specs for rear bars and compare to this one before paying shipping on an item that is probably on Craig's list for less than a third of CDC's price.

I have two of them in my garage - standard GT bars, that is.
 

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I installed the GT500 front lower control arms today. I got lucky because the high is only 99*, it will be 103* tomorrow.

The install wasn't bad, but it is real tough torquing everything down with the car at ride height, there just isn't much room to swing a torque wrench even on wheel ramps. The Ford Service manual was very helpful, suggesting you flip the orientation of the nuts and flag bolts on the back mounts. You'll have to take out the bolts that hold the steering rack in place so you have enough room to remove, intstall, and torque the front control arm bolts (be careful of the steering boots). You'll need a shallow 18mm socket that will fit your torque wrench, I had to stop and go to Lowes to get one, it just barely fit. I couldn't get a torque wrench on the steering rack bolts so I had to torque it down to 2 grunts instead of 85 ft/lbs.

The good news is the suspension is tighter, tracks better, and no more thump thump everytime I hit a bump.

Next upgrade wheels and tires then probably 4.10 gears.
 

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Where did u get all suspension parts from? Planning to upgrade the suspension on my 2010. Or shud I ask sqodd about it.
Look at the first post on page 1 of this thread for a link to Sqidd's post.

Here's what I bought:

GT500 Struts, Shocks, and sway bar at
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-11-Mustang-GT-GT500-Shelby-Suspension-Lowering-Kit-/220613270333?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item335d935b3d

J&M Caster/Camber Plates from
http://www.americanmuscle.com/2005-caster-camber-plates.html

(2) Ford Spindle to Strut Hardware Kit from
http://www.cjponyparts.com/ford-spindle-to-strut-hardware-kit-2005-2010/p/HW2379/

Steeda Ultralite Springs from
http://www.cjponyparts.com/steeda-ultralite-springs-2005-2010/p/5558206/

BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar
http://www.americanmuscle.com/jm-panhard-0509.html

GT500 Style Strut Mounts (for the upper spring isolator, not needed if you re-use the one from your struts)
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M18183C/2011-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Gt500-Style-Strut-Mount-Pair

GT500 Style Front Lower Control Arms (I had bad ball joints)
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/M3075E/2005-10-Mustang-Ford-Racing-Gt500-Style-Front-Lower-Control-
 

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I'm waiting on the heat to subside before I tackle my suspension. I've been piecemealing the suspension on the cheap and it all started with the Greenleaf GT500 suspension.

Springs are the Ford racing set from CL locally. I bought the $75 CDC antiroll bar for the rear. I went with the GT500 upgrade mounts and may get the camber plates later.

I also found the Scott Drake cast rear diff cover on sale and this one promised I don't need to relocate the panhard bar. We will see...

If my bolts gets here soon, I may start to tear it down but this weekend I'm at the track. Maybe next weekend.
 

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