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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 3 amps they are listed below With specs:

~Rockford 550S 2-channel
137W/[email protected], [email protected]BRIDGED MONO
low level inputs only

Sony XM-554ZR Xplod 600 Watt 4-Channel Amplifier Technical I~nformation
Output Power
4 x 55W RMS @ 4Ohm
4 x 65W RMS @ 2Ohm
1 x 130W RMS @ 4Ohm - Bridged
high and low level inputs

Audiovox / 120 Watt 2-Channel Amplifier
18W RMS/[email protected]
high and low level inputs

What my plan to is is to put a good set of aftermarket 5x7's in the factory holes, put another cheaper set i have in the square center holes and a set of tweeters in the tiny holes also in the rear deck.

did the Mach systems have tweeters installed in the rear deck?

I plan on running the good pair in the factory holes off the little audiovox amp. using a splice off the factory wires to connect to the High Level Inputs.

i then want to connect a lower RMS pair of tweeters into the factory wires, along with splicing (a 3rd item on the same line?)in the cheap 10W 5x7 i have to run off the deck.

also in the rear end of the ride i want to install the rockford 550S with a nice sub or a pair. I will need a capacitor for this amp. i will use the Low Level inputs (RCA) and use the LR and RR wires only.

next i want to amp the door speakers using the sony 600W 4 channel. i will run that off the low level(RCA) connectors FL and FR only with a split to power the RL and RR so all my Speakers in the front work. I want to run a set of tweeters (in Mach Style Pods, where can i get some?), I will also replace the factory door speakers and amp them too, i might need a small cap for this one or one larger cap on the main line where should i put it. and what size?

ok if your not already totally confused, where do i need amps and how should i go about distributiong the power to each amp, using the proper Ga. wire?

My Major Questions:
  • Did the Mach Systems have tweeters In the Back Deck? and if Yes What size?
  • Can i connect 5x7's tweeters and High level Inputs for an amp to the factory wires? any other suggestions?
  • How Should i distribute the power?
  • What Size Cap(s) should i use?
  • any alternative Ideas?
  • Where should i put additional fuses
  • should i bother with the junky 5x7's in the square holes on the rear deck? that way theres only one splice
If you Think you Can help me, try. It will be greatly appreciated. :D
 

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I would do the big 3 wires under your hood before investing in a capacitor. add a 1/0 gauge wire from alternator to ground, battery (-) to ground, and alternator to battery (+), and fuse the wire between the alternator and battery (+) the same as the fuse on your main power wire for your audio system. Leave your factory wiring. If the fuse blows, you'll be able to turn your audio off and get home. This redundant wiring will lower overall resistance, making your system more efficient and generally will perform better than a capacitor. If your lights still dim, think about a capacitor of at least a couple farads. If your voltage still doesn't level out, get a high output alternator.

Think of it this way: Right now, you're basically trying to run a garden hose from a fire hydrant (alternator) to a fire engine (battery), and then put out a fire with a fire hose from the fire engine. You could install a reservoir and pump downstream of the hydrant (capacitor) if you only need short bursts of high intensity water, as the reservoir will fill up and fire in bursts, as when you have a heavy bass note. If you need a constant supply, though, you need to expand your capacity. The limiting factor right now is your underhood wiring. Replace that with a fire hose and you can then pump at full intensity all the time. Keep in mind, though, that this still may not be enough to put out the fire (aka power your system). You may still need more flow, aka a bigger alternator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yeah i got all that. In the past i have had the lights dim on the 550S alone. so your saying if get the 1/0 wires from the alt. to the battery it will improve the flow?
 

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yeah i got all that. In the past i have had the lights dim on the 550S alone. so your saying if get the 1/0 wires from the alt. to the battery it will improve the flow?
Yes. It basically frees up current lost to heat in the stock wiring. Your alternator will not have to work as hard to deliver the same current, taking some stress off of your charging system. A cap may still be necessary, but this should be the first step in any audio system 500w RMS or more. Further, capacitors will really only help you in delivering periodic current for big bass hits to your bass amps, not with regular music to your other amps, which is far more constant in current draw. In your case,if you upgrade the wiring and you're still getting dimming lights and dropping voltage, I would seriously look into upgrading the alternator, as that will do far more for your system than a capacitor, which will just be a band-aid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Now if i do decide to keep the stock alternator and upgrade the wires will that shorten the life of the alternator do to over heating an other circumstances?
 

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Now if i do decide to keep the stock alternator and upgrade the wires will that shorten the life of the alternator do to over heating an other circumstances?
No, it won't have any adverse effect. It makes your electrical system more efficient. Your alternator will put out the same current regardless of the load on it. If the load on it exceeds the available current, though, then you run the risk of shortening the life of your alternator. This is where the fuse comes in on the wire between the alternator and the battery.
 

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Oh, one thing...I was mistaken on the fuse on the alternator to battery cable. You'll want to run around a 300 amp fuse on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok. thanks for the info, now i just have to get some money for all the "little" things i need for this project.
 
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