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PM with your email, and I can send you some PDF's that I used, and what I did. it is a long process so I don't want to write it all out on this post, and you can't attach through PM's on this forum.
 

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I have a questions on this I have a 600 watt sub amp do I need a farad cap and if so how big of one do I need? thanks
 

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I have a questions on this I have a 600 watt sub amp do I need a farad cap and if so how big of one do I need? thanks
Is your amp 600w max or 600w rms? In either case, I would upgrade the "big 3" wiring under your hood before I'd get a capacitor. Run 1/0 gauge from alternator to ground, alternator to battery (+), and battery (-) to ground. Make sure to put around a 150 amp fuse between the battery and the alternator wire. This should keep your lights from dimming and make your electrical system more efficient by cutting resistance. If your lights still dim, look into a capacitor. 1 farad for every 1000w rms.
 

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What wires or cables do I need to make this work. I'm keeping the Saker 500 headunit and stuff. WHAT DO I NEED?!

I found out I need this:
Knukonceptz product detail for KLM COMPLETE 4 GAUGE AMP INSTALLATION KIT

Scosche SLC4 Four-channel line output converter at Crutchfield.com

THIS ALL?
The Soundgate LOCB.2 active line output converter is the best solution for adding a sub and amp. It taps in between the head unit and stock amps to convert the line-level wires going to the amps into a pair of 2.5V minimum RCA pre-outs. The Scoche passive line output converters will work, but you'll have to crank the gain on your amp, which can lead to clipping.
 
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