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Okay all, I changed out my fuel filter and oil drove the car (93 Stang 2.3) all day short hops then an 30 mile trip home. Went to leave 45 min later and crank but no start! Checked spark - Okay; Checked loose wiring: Okay (I just spent 2 days fixing the previous owner/bodyshop trash work in the engine bay); pressed the fuel relief valve and dribbling fuel. Listened for the fuel pump to come on with key in "on" position, no sound. Checked inertia switch: Okay; Rechecked pressure a bit more but still a dribble; Started thinking fuel pump but wanted to by-pass relay and send power straight to the pump, TA DA!!! Where is the relay???? One Alldata subscription later I found the ICRM (Integrated Relay Control Module) contains the fuel pump, EEC Power, Electric Fan AND WOT-A/C relays all in one convient place. WTF!!! You can't fix it. You must replace this $140.00 to $160.00 black box (Yes, it is a black colored box).

From research each relay operates independantly and is just HOUSED and GROUNDED in this sealed box.

Now the question:
Has anyone built a work around for this thing?

PLEASE STOP THE INSANITY!!!
 

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No but I keep this wiring diagram in case I ever decide to.

I'm sure a set of decent automotive relays could be used to replace the entire module and make it more serviceable. Not only that, but you could get rid of the ugly black box on the strut tower and relocate the relays to a less conspicuous place.
 

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No but I keep this wiring diagram in case I ever decide to.

I'm sure a set of decent automotive relays could be used to replace the entire module and make it more serviceable. Not only that, but you could get rid of the ugly black box on the strut tower and relocate the relays to a less conspicuous place.
He has a very good idea. If you can figure it out, you can move them to a place not under the hood. I had the same problem, turns out I needed gas. So I have an extra ICRM and computer from a 93' automatic. It's possibly for sale if you need it. PM me and i'll see what I can do.
 

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He has a very good idea. If you can figure it out, you can move them to a place not under the hood. I had the same problem, turns out I needed gas. So I have an extra ICRM and computer from a 93' automatic. It's possibly for sale if you need it. PM me and i'll see what I can do.

Thanks for the offer but I already had special ordered one.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
He has a very good idea. If you can figure it out, you can move them to a place not under the hood. I had the same problem, turns out I needed gas. So I have an extra ICRM and computer from a 93' automatic. It's possibly for sale if you need it. PM me and i'll see what I can do.
I have my old one off and the new one on so I am going to disect the old one. I'll keep you posted on the progress of the "new" version. AutoZone got my new one to me in 24 hours and were $12.00 cheaper than RockAuto.
 

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Okay all, I changed out my fuel filter and oil drove the car (93 Stang 2.3) all day short hops then an 30 mile trip home. Went to leave 45 min later and crank but no start! Checked spark - Okay; Checked loose wiring: Okay (I just spent 2 days fixing the previous owner/bodyshop trash work in the engine bay); pressed the fuel relief valve and dribbling fuel. Listened for the fuel pump to come on with key in "on" position, no sound. Checked inertia switch: Okay; Rechecked pressure a bit more but still a dribble; Started thinking fuel pump but wanted to by-pass relay and send power straight to the pump, TA DA!!! Where is the relay???? One Alldata subscription later I found the ICRM (Integrated Relay Control Module) contains the fuel pump, EEC Power, Electric Fan AND WOT-A/C relays all in one convient place.
OKAY... A word of warning. Before I got the new part today I'd stopped at the gas station and refueled (no restart problem) and went to the salvage yard for some interior parts I needed to replace. I stopped turned off and went in to check in with the owner before heading out into the yard to go searching for my parts. About 90 minutes after turning the car off at the "mustang/ford" area the car would not restart.

This time I heard the fuel pump cycle on but crank with no start. I have come to the conclusion that I may have had more than one problem. This time no spark. I now have a new ignition module as well ($145.00 from AutoZone). If it happens again then the coil packs will be replaced. Always remember, old cars have old parts. More than one part can act up at once. Always be patient and have a reserve fund for repairs. Otherwise only buy a car with a really good warrenty if you can't handle the stress.
 

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could be crank sensor from all the times you tried to start it. They are $140+. These 2.3l's are cheap to buy, but expensive to keep up with. My next Foxbody will cost me $3K just so I don't have to do anything but drive.:racer:
 

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OMG same no power to fuel pump problem

:soI am having the same problem here. I am currently searching for a Integrated Relay Control Module for my 1993 2.3l mustang. if anyone has came up with a good way to reroute or bypass please let me know, as well as where to get one pretty cheap local junk yards dont have what i need.
 

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On the fuel pump to bypass it. Using b chandler diagram. Because of diode in circuit. Must need to "T" in wires. external realy to 18 and 24. N.O. points connecto to 12 and 5. A person could always rebuild it with new relay. Info here.
JR's Place - Ford IRCM Schematic & Troubleshooting
Of course could solder wires at the connection of internal relay or remove old relays totally and do install external relay. With the electronic inside and diodes. I can't see doing without them. But most failures I think would be in relays instead of electronics. If had to do it that would be my methods. I know that is how I done the TRW module for my fan. Maurice
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w224/mgman75/TRW%20module/100_6608.jpg
 

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The fuel pump relay can be removed from the IRCM fairly easily. Maurice and Big C have the answer. Get a 75 amp Bosch relay and wire it up void of the ircm and Ecm. I have a dual pump system and it requires a lot of current to work. Far more than the IRCM can supply. So an external relay or relays are needed. The ircm is a good idea but putting all your EGS in one basket could cause them to BREAK. Peace Tom:itsallgood:itsallgood:idea
 

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I hate driving alot of juice on a circuit board.
Best to do the load off the board and have the switches that control it stay there.
 

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It depends on the board. If the traces are thick enough and wide enough with enough isolation from neighboring traces, it can work. The aforementioned conditions rule out any automotive manufacturer made circuit board. :)

Doesn't mean I don't agree with you though. :bigthumbsup
 

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In another field, I'm running across air conditioning condensing units that run EVERYTHING off a circuit board. There ain't no way of convincing me that the job of the old Contactor is going to be more reliable, trouble free (at least minimum down time when broke) and CHEAPER to repair. 240V and startup amps will be a killer over time.
 

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I agree with you both. But we assume designed correctly. Of course if have something overamp. [like radiator fan]on TRW module the module and strip connections are toast. Now if it had a plug connection solder to board and plugged in maybe would last. [Hint if find TRW burn't up test fan before replacing or replace it anyway. Cheapest way]
Also Ford probably designed it well but now he overseas market it "making" them "cheaper". Maybe now.
p brooks we know what it is to buy a $600 dollar control board for a package unit. Just because one section went bad.
Or Scotsman counter top flaker. [used in hospitals mostly] Condenser get dirty, [wonder why] then compressor relay goes out on board. Guess what new board. And they are not cheap.
I loved working on the old 10ton, now about 25 years old package Carrier unit that had about 6 relays across top and mechanical timers in them. And you guys wonder why car wiring is easy to me. Any why does a mfg install 20 amp relays on board and run 6-12 amps thru it and expect durability. It wouldn't be first time I install relay to pull in then pull the load on instead of depending on boad relay. Maurice
 

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What i normally do is simple . I use the ircm fuel pump lead that powers up the tank pump and mount a relay in the trunk. My battery is in the trunk on all my cars so getting direct battery current for the pump is a snap. Now i use the IRCM pump lead to activate the 75 amp relay in the trunk and power up my 2 pumps in the tank. This way the IRCM fuel pump relay only sees the relays load not the pump load. And because i have a trunk mount battery the voltage drop to the pumps is basically ZERO. And all the ECM safety pump cutout features still work. Hope this helps. Thanks Guys. Peace Tom:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup:bigthumbsup
 

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Tom, we call those interposing relays in my world. We use that setup all the time. It saves an input or output relay on an expensive piece of equipment or lets us use DC controls to control A/C equipment or vice-versa. Very handy.
 

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Good way to go Tom.

Now I will know what that term is when I read the manufacturers tech spec :)
 

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Just finish a IRCM change out (thanks to mg man 75) not only does it send power to the fuel pump, it also fixed a fuel pressure problem. We had turned the idle up way back when to keep the car from stalling out at stop signs and such. After the relay box swap we had to return the idle to normal..YAY!! She has more power, no more crawling up hills, no more sputtering at take off, and (much to my horror) my husband and brother actually layed a lil rubber(they had apparently tried before and couldnt get it to do it). There are only a few models that actually have this annoying little box, but it makes all the difference in the world.
My beautiful Mustang finally acts like a Mustang should. Maurice , you are truely a Mustang Hero!!!!!:bigthumbsup
 
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