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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Once in awhile the car is hard to start. I is getting juice and turning over, but not ignition. Battery and starter about three years old. Wires, cap, rotor, plugs replaced about 5 years ago and runs good. The lock cylinder was suspect and replaced that, same problem. My brother tried to help and just 'rebuilt' the ignition switch (he should've replaced it for little as it costs!). Still have same problem. I'm assuming it's still the ignition switch. Any other common problems to look for? Thank you!
 

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Once in awhile the car is hard to start. I is getting juice and turning over, but not ignition. Battery and starter about three years old. Wires, cap, rotor, plugs replaced about 5 years ago and runs good. The lock cylinder was suspect and replaced that, same problem. My brother tried to help and just 'rebuilt' the ignition switch (he should've replaced it for little as it costs!). Still have same problem. I'm assuming it's still the ignition switch. Any other common problems to look for? Thank you!
It doesn’t make any noise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It doesn’t make any noise?
Hi, I'm not sure what you mean. The engine turns over and tries to start, but you can tell it's not getting any spark. It doesn't want to start about every 3 or 4 days, it's weird. That's why I was thinking it was the ignition switch. The other thing I checked was the fuel pump cut off switch in the trunk, but it's okay.
 

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Hi, I'm not sure what you mean. The engine turns over and tries to start, but you can tell it's not getting any spark. It doesn't want to start about every 3 or 4 days, it's weird. That's why I was thinking it was the ignition switch. The other thing I checked was the fuel pump cut off switch in the trunk, but it's okay.
How can you tell it’s lot getting any spark?
If the ignition switch was bad the motor wouldn’t even try to turn over. There would be a click or no noise at all.
Get a fuel pressure gauge and test the pressure at the fuel real. Look on YouTube/Google for instructions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How can you tell it’s lot getting any spark?
If the ignition switch was bad the motor wouldn’t even try to turn over. There would be a click or no noise at all.
Get a fuel pressure gauge and test the pressure at the fuel real. Look on YouTube/Google for instructions.
Checked the fuel pressure and is okay. Fuel replaced a year ago. Any ideas? Thank you for your time on this!
 

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Checked the fuel pressure and is okay. Fuel replaced a year ago. Any ideas? Thank you for your time on this!
What was the pressure?
The pip in the distributor is known to go bad. Replacing the distributor is easier than replace the pip.
 

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Pip.....that's a new one on me. What is that?
It’s pressed onto the distributor and it measures the engine RPM. Mine went out on my ‘95 before. It would usually start when the motor was cold but not warm. Sometimes it would die after running awhile.
There’s also the TFI module that goes bad, but it’s less likely on the ‘94/‘95’s than the’93 and older.
New distributors come with new PIP’s.
The Hall-Effect Sensor
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It’s pressed onto the distributor and it measures the engine RPM. Mine went out on my ‘95 before. It would you usually start when the motor was cold but not warm. Sometimes it would die after running awhile.
There’s also the TFI module that goes bad, but it’s less likely on the ‘94/‘95’s than the’93 and older.
New distributors come with new PIP’s.
The Hall-Effect Sensor
Would it cause the intermittent starting problem? Most of the time it fires right up. Then who knows, in a few days or a week it is real hard to start. It might take 8 tries, but then starts and is okay until that time again. Also, I noticed, that even though it has always run good at idle (750 rpm), now it's on the cusp of shutting down with the idle dips a little lower and does occasionally. Does that add any more weight to your explanation. For your information, the car has only 140K on it and is in good shape other than the lacquer coming off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It could be the PIP. But how have you verified that it is not getting spark?
Well, that is a problem. Since it happens intermittently and usually not at home, I have no way to check. It was easy when I had my 69 GTX. All I had to do was remove a spark plug and insert a rod in the plug wire (while holding it with an insulator!) and use a screwdriver on the solenoid on the firewall to check for a spark while cranking the engine. Do you have a way I can check for spark while it is acting up? I don't have any diagnostic scanners or the like. I can't do repairs like that anymore since I bought my first 'modern' car about 6 years ago.....this 94 GT! Used to owning old cars like a GTX, 70 Charger, 69 Mach 1, 67 and 70 Chrysler 300's, etc. ......now those I could work on. Please advise and thanks again for your time, very nice of you to furnish that distributor information.
 

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It could be a lot of things but here is a link to a good step by step list. You’ll need a multimeter though. When it won’t start do you hear the fuel pump prime when you turn the key on? It’ll be a humming sound coming from the rear.
 

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I agree with everyone else that this is a PIP sensor issue. I have encountered this exact scenario two or three times with my 95 GT.

DLeach1407 sent this to me and it cleared up this intermittent start problem confusion.

"The Ford TFI ignition system may best be known for the troublesome TFI module that would fail when it got hot. The engine would run for about half an hour, the TFI module would fail, and you’d be stuck on the side of the road. After some time to cool off, the engine would start back up, and you’d be on your way, but once it warmed back up again, you were again stuck on the side of the road."
 

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I agree with everyone else that this is a PIP sensor issue. I have encountered this exact scenario two or three times with my 95 GT.

DLeach1407 sent this to me and it cleared up this intermittent start problem confusion.

"The Ford TFI ignition system may best be known for the troublesome TFI module that would fail when it got hot. The engine would run for about half an hour, the TFI module would fail, and you’d be stuck on the side of the road. After some time to cool off, the engine would start back up, and you’d be on your way, but once it warmed back up again, you were again stuck on the side of the road."
The 94/95’s didn’t the TFI issues as much as the ‘93 and under because the TFI module was relocated to the fender. It was attached to the distributor on the earlier models and they were getting hot. I’m not saying it’s not the pip, but I think this guys won’t start after sitting for several days. So it’s not a heat related issue.
 

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The 94/95’s didn’t the TFI issues as much as the ‘93 and under because the TFI module was relocated to the fender. It was attached to the distributor on the earlier models and they were getting hot. I’m not saying it’s not the pip, but I think this guys won’t start after sitting for several days. So it’s not a heat related issue.
One reason for failure is the heat but it will also start failing over time. I can only tell you what my experience has been. I have never had the TFI/ICM or the coil fail and cause problems starting or driving my 95 GT. The PIP sensor has gone bad over and over again. The ECU will not fire the spark plugs if it does not get that PIP signal. There is no fail over option. If the signal is intermittent, weak, or missing the car will not start. The signal is important because there is no crank position sensor on the 94/95 GT.
 

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One reason for failure is the heat but it will also start failing over time. I can only tell you what my experience has been. I have never had the TFI/ICM or the coil fail and cause problems starting or driving my 95 GT. The PIP sensor has gone bad over and over again. The ECU will not fire the spark plugs if it does not get that PIP signal. There is no fail over option. If the signal is intermittent, weak, or missing the car will not start. The signal is important because there is no crank position sensor on the 94/95 GT.
Mine crapped out once too (‘95 GT). Knock on wood it hasn’t again. Did you replace the sensor or get a new distributor?
 
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