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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Aight callin on the BAP haters :happydance:...I do not plan on going above a 150 shot and this car is a daily driver and I don't really need to spray the nitrous that much around town(I pretty much only flip the switch if I see a vette). Not to mention I now have 19 points on my driving record and hearing scheduled for next week :laugh:

Is it REALLY that big of a deal if this thing makes the stock fuel pump work a little harder for 11 seconds ? I get to the strip about 6 times a year and for about 50 passes total.

I know it's better to have the GT500 pumps but just not seeing the justification to shell out $750. I'd also like to know if anyone has blown out the stock pump with one of these or know someone that has.
 

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I've been running a 3.4 pulley, 39# injectors, HT0 plugs and BAP for over 2-1/2 years with no problems. But if I were to go down to a 3.2 pulley I'd get dual GT500 pumps for sure.
 

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There is nothing wrong with running a BAP. Lots of people use them, and lots of those people have them on all the time. I used one for about a year.

My only comment about BAPs are that they are (strictly in my opinion) an electronic band aide. They are a "fix" to get a lesser part to do the job of a better part. And in most circumstances I would recommend someone going ahead and upgrading their fuel pumps over getting a BAP. I mean why not just put a part in that will actually do the job you need instead of relying on an add on component to make your original part do what you want it to do? ( yea, people say that about superchargers too... apples to oranges).

But in your case, I think a BAP would be exactly what you need for the job. You are right, no sense in dumping that much money in to fuel pumps when you would use it as little as you say you would.

Now another alternative would be to replace the stock pump with a GT Supercar pump. And you can do that for about half the price of a BAP
 

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There is nothing wrong with running a BAP. Lots of people use them, and lots of those people have them on all the time. I used one for about a year.

My only comment about BAPs are that they are (strictly in my opinion) an electronic band aide. They are a "fix" to get a lesser part to do the job of a better part. And in most circumstances I would recommend someone going ahead and upgrading their fuel pumps over getting a BAP. I mean why not just put a part in that will actually do the job you need instead of relying on an add on component to make your original part do what you want it to do? ( yea, people say that about superchargers too... apples to oranges).

But in your case, I think a BAP would be exactly what you need for the job. You are right, no sense in dumping that much money in to fuel pumps when you would use it as little as you say you would.

Now another alternative would be to replace the stock pump with a GT Supercar pump. And you can do that for about half the price of a BAP
+1...you took the words right out of my mouth. For longevity purposes, it's just common sense that an overdriven pump won't last as long as one that isn't, but I don't think it's that big of deal.
By the way, KB totally skips over the longevity issue...when it's brought up in the previous post, they change the subject. One thing in the first post that needs to be considered is that the pump isn't just working harder just for those 11 seconds...it's overdriven by that higher voltage all the time (unless the voltage is varied) and running harder to keep the pressure up even when the injectors are closed (that's what I was told anyway, but it could have heard wrong) so you would be running the pump hotter and affect it's longevity.
 

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In the article I posted he argues that lower fuel pump duty cycle provided by the BAP = longer life of pumps. Seems logical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
All very good points. It seems as though you can configure it to not increase the voltage to the pump until you go WOT. This means it won't be constantly adding more voltage to the pump under normal driving conditions which is the way the car is driven most of the time:

The Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump™ is fully adjustable from 1% to 50% from the drivers seat with the mere turn of a dial. No longer are you "locked in" to a fixed pump capacity and/or pressure. Activating only at full throttle with N/A vehicles or at 3 psi for forced induction turbo/supercharges. Also acts as a voltage regulator by compensating for any and all system voltage fluctuations.• Doesn't heat up fuel like larger. No octane loss (gas boils at 95 degrees). Increases existing fuel pump capacity up to 50%. Installs using stock wiring. No fuel line modifications. Activation vacuum or pressure switch included in kit. • Compensates for reduced voltage (lower pump output) when lights or other accessories are on. • Maintains consistent pump output regardless of battery voltage (down to 10 volts). • Optimizes air/fuel ratio and horsepower by matching the engine fuel requirements. • Quiet operation.• Maintains stock fuel pressure at idle and part throttle. • Controls WOT fuel pressure with return line shut off valves (FMU,FSB). • Maintains constant output voltage to pump within 1% from 10 to 12.5 battery voltage. • Doesn't affect pump life. • Ideal for any nitrous system. • Anodized red aluminum. • Fused circuit protection. • Works on any car, truck, or boat with 12V electric fuel pump. • Compact size, lightweight (less than 2 lbs.). • Guaranteed by Kenne-Bell. Kenne Bell


It appears there are 2 versions...a 20amp and 40amp. I think the 20amp is for the stock GT fuel pump. Any reason to get the 40 amp ?
 

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All very good points. It seems as though you can configure it to not increase the voltage to the pump until you go WOT. This means it won't be constantly adding more voltage to the pump under normal driving conditions which is the way the car is driven most of the time:

The Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump™ is fully adjustable from 1% to 50% from the drivers seat with the mere turn of a dial. No longer are you "locked in" to a fixed pump capacity and/or pressure. Activating only at full throttle with N/A vehicles or at 3 psi for forced induction turbo/supercharges. Also acts as a voltage regulator by compensating for any and all system voltage fluctuations.• Doesn't heat up fuel like larger. No octane loss (gas boils at 95 degrees). Increases existing fuel pump capacity up to 50%. Installs using stock wiring. No fuel line modifications. Activation vacuum or pressure switch included in kit. • Compensates for reduced voltage (lower pump output) when lights or other accessories are on. • Maintains consistent pump output regardless of battery voltage (down to 10 volts). • Optimizes air/fuel ratio and horsepower by matching the engine fuel requirements. • Quiet operation.• Maintains stock fuel pressure at idle and part throttle. • Controls WOT fuel pressure with return line shut off valves (FMU,FSB). • Maintains constant output voltage to pump within 1% from 10 to 12.5 battery voltage. • Doesn't affect pump life. • Ideal for any nitrous system. • Anodized red aluminum. • Fused circuit protection. • Works on any car, truck, or boat with 12V electric fuel pump. • Compact size, lightweight (less than 2 lbs.). • Guaranteed by Kenne-Bell. Kenne Bell


It appears there are 2 versions...a 20amp and 40amp. I think the 20amp is for the stock GT fuel pump. Any reason to get the 40 amp ?

exactly what i have been wondering.... and what about the wiring... do you need different wiring too when you do either 20 or 40 amp BAP or leave the stock in there?
 

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I was told by PLSTANG that I should get a GT40 PUMP,if I wanted to feel safer. It is less money than a GT500 pump. I am going to get one.
 

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It's one of the few things that I don't still have. I already gave it away.
oh well darn! wouldnt happen to have some 3.73 gears or UDP's laying around for 09 gt? :D

id def consult plstang on this he knows a thing or 2 about spray
 

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No, but I do have some 4.10s, 4.30s and 3.55s. :so
lol the 4.10s are tempting but im going to have it roushcharged so i think the 3.73 are the right move... how were those 4.30's lol? whiplash city?
 

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lol the 4.10s are tempting but im going to have it roushcharged so i think the 3.73 are the right move... how were those 4.30's lol? whiplash city?
They were horrible. Plus I cracked the ring gear so they're junk. I'll get around to throwing them away at some point.
 

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They were horrible. Plus I cracked the ring gear so they're junk. I'll get around to throwing them away at some point.
What brand where they? Motive maybe.
 
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