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Discussion Starter #1
I just installed front/rear sway bars and thought it would be fairly straight forward to add a panhard bar/brace.

My car is staying stock ride height, so a non-adjustable bar should work. Sophn, Che and BMR make these. (Sophn unit looks particularly nice.) Braces can be purchased from Che, BMR and Steeda, I believe.

Will I notice much of a difference if I replace these parts with aftermarket ones? Or should the panhard bar/brace only be touched if you're re-centering the car after lowering?
 

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the adjustable is only really needed when you begin lowering the car, which causes the axle to shift, in most cases to the driver side. the adjustable brings the axle back in center. if you don't plan on lowering, then an adjustable isn't needed.
 

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I agree with your thinking on the non-adjustable bar. I was pleased with adding aftermarket bar and brace. The rear end seems a bit more composed in turns on bumpy surfaces. I'm guessing the urethane bushings are big part of this.
 

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I agree with your thinking on the non-adjustable bar. I was pleased with adding aftermarket bar and brace. The rear end seems a bit more composed in turns on bumpy surfaces. I'm guessing the urethane bushings are big part of this.
Yeah, the bushings are much beefier than OEM.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I agree with your thinking on the non-adjustable bar. I was pleased with adding aftermarket bar and brace. The rear end seems a bit more composed in turns on bumpy surfaces. I'm guessing the urethane bushings are big part of this.
That's interesting. What parts did you use? Maybe one manufacturers bushings are better? Or maybe a non-adjustable bar is that much stiffer than an adjustable?
 

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I use BMR but I believe most of the aftermarket bushings will be superior to the stock ones.

I have an adjustable one in my 9 second car. I'm sure it would be strong enough for your application. If you're going to get an aftermarket Panhard and brace you may want to consider an adjustable. Just in case you decide later to lower the car.
 

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how do u work the adjustable? im completely new to adj panhards and im lowered with the stock one. might be something for me to look into
 

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Simple just use the nut on the panhard to run the threaded section in or out to center the rear end under the car.

It's pretty simple.
 

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You only need to add one if your rear end is no longer centered. However, it would be a good idea to add one to ensure that it is centered and for the better bushings.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, I've decided to gamble with a new panhard bar and brace. I have a non-adjustable Spohn chrome moly bar and a Steeda brace coming. I don't need adjustable parts, since I won't be lowering the car.

Spohn was the only company I could find that made a fixed length bar out of chrome moly steel (lighter than stock, but stronger). Everyone else seems to be using mild steel, except for Steeda, but they only sell an adjustable unit.

I should have the parts on by the end of the week. I'll be sure to report any findings one way or another.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You only need to add one if your rear end is no longer centered. However, it would be a good idea to add one to ensure that it is centered and for the better bushings.
The stock brace is also very weak. I took the panhard bar and brace out of the car today. The factory brace is so weak that I can flex it a little by putting it across my lap and forcing the ends down.

Obviously, I can't even come close to deforming it. Still, I shouldn't be able flex a brace (even a little) without using tools!

You don't need to take the brace off to try it. Just crawl under the car and push up on the brace. You'll feel it flex a little even when it's bolted to the car.
 

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I am going to keep stock panhard bar.
I am going to upgrade stock rubber bushing to polyurethane busing in price 20 USD/set.

Has anybody this kind of mod ? Any vibrations issue ?

In the panhard bar working stress force is along the bar's pipe ,
it can be bent by hand but you can not extend it's length.
Panhard bar can not be bent when it's work because it has rotation axis.
 

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so on my stock ride car, the rear end does sit off to the right just a little. ive seen many other posts stating the same thing. its not something you really notice till you put some big meats on it, then its obvious. so a adj. bar would correct that?
 

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so on my stock ride car, the rear end does sit off to the right just a little. ive seen many other posts stating the same thing. its not something you really notice till you put some big meats on it, then its obvious. so a adj. bar would correct that?
With panhard bar the rear weels moves in horizontal axis, if you put more load on the car, springs will compress and rear weels move to the left direction ( driver side ) see enclosed picture.
Adjustable bar will not fix horizontal movement, only Watt's linkage eliminate horizontal weels movement.



from wikipedia:

The advantage of the Panhard rod is its simplicity. Its major disadvantage is that the axle must necessarily move in an arc relative to the body, with the radius equal to the length of the Panhard rod. If the rod is too short, there will be excessive sideways movement between the axle and the body at the ends of the spring travel

Panhard rod - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 

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so on my stock ride car, the rear end does sit off to the right just a little. ive seen many other posts stating the same thing. its not something you really notice till you put some big meats on it, then its obvious. so a adj. bar would correct that?
YES, an adjustable panhard bar WILL correct for that....

... Adjustable bar will not fix horizontal movement, only Watt's linkage eliminate horizontal weels movement.
...
AND a Watt's link WILL NOT ELIMINATE HORIZONTAL WHEEL MOVEMENT, (nor did James Watt ever claim it would...:winks )


...Watt's linkage (also known as the parallel linkage) is a type of mechanical linkage invented by James Watt (19 January 1736 鈥 25 August 1819) to constrain the movement of a steam engine piston in a straight line.

The idea of its genesis using links is contained in a letter he wrote to Matthew Boulton in June 1784.

I have got a glimpse of a method of causing a piston rod to move up and down perpendicularly by only fixing it to a piece of iron upon the beam, without chains or perpendicular guides [...] and one of the most ingenious simple pieces of mechanics I have invented.

This linkage does not generate a true straight line motion, and indeed Watt did not claim it did so.
In a letter to Boulton on 11 September 1784 he describes the linkage as follows.

The convexities of the arches, lying in contrary directions, there is a certain point in the connecting-lever, which has very little sensible variation from a straight line.
...
:rollgrin:

The Watt's travels in a quasi figure 8 type pattern....

...
 

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So you need to add an adjustable panhard bar when you add lowering springs? I wasn't aware of this.
Lower car with shorter springs require shorter panhard bar, see enclosed drawing.
 

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YES, an adjustable panhard bar WILL correct for that....

Let's ask engineers from Ford to change panhard bar lenght because they are wrong :winks

AND a Watt's link WILL NOT ELIMINATE HORIZONTAL WHEEL MOVEMENT, (nor did James Watt ever claim it would...:winks )


:rollgrin:

The Watt's travels in a quasi figure 8 type pattern....

...
You are right, only at the top and bottom it moves in the horizontal axis, if the working area is limited from top and down by spring's lenght it moves in the vertical axis.
 

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i'm going to get a solid panhard brace and panhard bar in the upcoming months and bolt them in for added strength :)
 
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