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After picking all your brains for so long I think it's time for me to give back to you fine folks and share what I have experienced.

From my short lived mustang ownership experience I have these bits of information:

- I installed the Pertronix 3 ignition with the Flame thrower three. I used the pink resistance wire and it works. Go figure. However, I notice no difference in performance compared to my old points.

- I have 15x7 american racing torq thrust wheels with 3.75 back spacing on all four corners and they fit nice. With 215 60's on the front and 235 60's on the back they do not stick outside the wheel wells.

- I have the Compcams N+271h cam. It is not radical at all. It sounds pretty good at idle but not that noticable. It immediately sounds better once you step on the gas from idle and is pretty loud. It will keep pulling past 100mph although its sweet spot is from 60mph to 90mph.

- I have the magnum roller tip rockers. They actually hit the stock chrome valve cover baffles under the oil fill hole and the PCV valve. You will have to punch up the baffle and use a thick gasket.

- I use a Quickfuel 580 Hotrod series vacuum secondary carb. Beautiful carb. It's aluminum but does feel that much lighter than my old Holley 4160. It is NOT ready out of the box. In my case I had to turn the mixture screws lean. But I will still have to get a pro to fine tune it.

- I have used a 1 inch carb spacer and no carb spacer on the same engine and I actually notice a difference. It's better at higher speeds with the spacer.

- I have rust on my ceramic coated headers. I believe it was from when I started the engine in the winter back when I thought it was a good idea to do so. Now I just leave it until spring.

- I have replaced the heater cables. Don't pay someone to do it. You can do it.

- I do not use the vacuum advance from the distributer. It idles fine.

Chris
Merry Christmas!
 

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The reason you notice no difference in performance with the Petronix is because you are using the pink resistor wire. The pertronix system is designed to run on a full 12 volts (ask me how much fun it is wiring up a pertronix with a factory rally pac. :p ). The resistor wire, does just that, resists and drops the voltage. So you're running the pertronix at the same voltage as the original points, which it can do, it's just that you won't get the full benefit of doing a Pertronix swap (you will get the benefit of not having to clean & adjust points though). If you want to see the difference give the Pertronix a 12v feed.

And the vacuum advance isn't just for your idle, it's for when you feel the need to use the gas pedal. I found out the hard way what happens when your advance isn't working and you get on it (I ended up saying goodbye to piston #5). It ended up blowing my rings and shearing the sides of the piston off so that there were no grooves for the rings.


Merry Christmas!! (Take that politically correct America) :D Michael. :)
 

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Excellent "points" Michael - (pun intended)
and I would add - you won't be changing the Pertronix *quite* as often as the points...............

Merry Christmas!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks Michael, I'm going to make an effort to change that pink wire out this winter. And I'll have to look into making the vacuum advance work in the spring. It has to be set with the timing right?
 

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You disconnect the vacuum advance during timing (make sure to plug what ever vacuum port supplies it's vacuum) during timing.
 

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Oh and just another note on the pertronix... DO NOT put the 12 volts on the coil. I left my resistor wire on my coil, but picked up the 12 volts right before the resistor wire at the ignition switch (so in order it goes ignition switch, pertronix feed, tach, resistor wire). Then you just connect the 12v feed right to the pertronix hot side, and the pertronix negative goes to the coil.

Ivy has a really good diagram showing how to wire up a pertronix.
 

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Regarding the ceramic headers, while the coating is much more durable than most others against rust, it's main purpose is as an insulator.

Regarding the resistor wire, you aren't removing it just bypassing it. I can post some pics later on how I did this but it is done as mentioned.

For your timing advance, you need the advance once your engine speed picks up and the optimal firing time during the compression stroke becomes shorter and shorter. The spark needs to fire a little earlier. This is why will still idle fine with no advance...you don't want advance when idling! The easiest way to understand it is if you're out pheasant hunting. If the birds are flying up really slow you have enough time to raise your gun and still get a shot. However if they are flying up super fast you'll miss the opportunity so you'd want your gun there ready at your shoulder. This is analogous to having ignition advance.


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Oh and just another note on the pertronix... DO NOT put the 12 volts on the coil...
That's not what Pertronix says:

"Ignitor II and III ignition systems REQUIRE a full +12V power connection between the ignition switch and the positive coil terminal."

Maybe you had to wire it differently for the tach?

Anyway, I'm no expert -- electrical stuff makes me nervous. So, for my Pertronix III distributor & Flamethrower III coil, I bought the Pertronix power relay kit. Complete with excellent instructions.
 

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That's not what Pertronix says:

"Ignitor II and III ignition systems REQUIRE a full +12V power connection between the ignition switch and the positive coil terminal."

Maybe you had to wire it differently for the tach?

Anyway, I'm no expert -- electrical stuff makes me nervous. So, for my Pertronix III distributor & Flamethrower III coil, I bought the Pertronix power relay kit. Complete with excellent instructions.

I have a factory tach (factory rally pac car), and the tachometer is in series between the ignition switch and resistor wire. But I also have the original Pertronix Ignitor too. And it worked perfectly the way I had it.
 

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I have a factory tach (factory rally pac car), and the tachometer is in series between the ignition switch and resistor wire. But I also have the original Pertronix Ignitor too. And it worked perfectly the way I had it.
That is good to know - I had assumed that a tach wouldn't work with a Pertronix system, (I haven't actually tried it) but what you have done makes good sense.
 

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Yeah that is a big note too. Most aftermarket tachometers go to the NEGATIVE side of the coil. On cars equipped with original FACTORY rally pacs (clock & tach pop on 65-66 Mustangs) Ford wired the tachometer in series with the pink resistor wire.
 
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