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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,
Got a 3000lb lift and jacks. Couple of questions
1) Where is the best place to set the jack lift to lift the car?
2) Where are the best places to place the floor jacks? I notice there is a stabilizer bar right in front of the engine that fits nice, also the rear axle. Not sure if these are the best points.
jq
 

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Front: Control arms, sway bar or K-Member

Rear: Differential housing, sway bar, control arms

Sides: Front frame for front, rear frame for rear

Floor stande should be placed near the control arm on the axles for the rear, and the front control arms for the front.
 

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I posted the same kind of thing a while back, and somebody was nice enought to post a copy of the ford reco lift points. Look for a thread called "Floor Jack" I think


HTH
 

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yeah, i don't think I'd lift on the sway bar. They're not meant for weight bearing. Not in that direction, anyway. Hotchkis suspension makes pricey hollow ones for the older muscle, can you imagine the damage??!!


As for the rear diff.......in the past I've been told it will warp the cover enough to make it leak. I've picked up our explorer that way, with no ill effects, but I don't think I'll chance it on the pony. Better safe than sorry.
 

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ultraclyde said:
yeah, i don't think I'd lift on the sway bar. They're not meant for weight bearing. Not in that direction, anyway. Hotchkis suspension makes pricey hollow ones for the older muscle, can you imagine the damage??!!


As for the rear diff.......in the past I've been told it will warp the cover enough to make it leak. I've picked up our explorer that way, with no ill effects, but I don't think I'll chance it on the pony. Better safe than sorry.

I always lift it from the diff just long enough to put jack stands under the rear axle. It'll only warp the cover if you catch the cover with the jack.

For the front I jack on the subframe and I place my jackstands at the factory jacking locations (one side at a time). My front is too low to jack from the front crossmember.

Look where they are jacking from http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/images/05gt/jba02.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thump_rrr said:
I always lift it from the diff just long enough to put jack stands under the rear axle. It'll only warp the cover if you catch the cover with the jack.

For the front I jack on the subframe and I place my jackstands at the factory jacking locations (one side at a time). My front is too low to jack from the front crossmember.

Look where they are jacking from http://www.seanhylandmotorsport.com/images/05gt/jba02.jpg
I don't seem to have access to this server to view the picture- can you post the .jpg directly?
jq
 

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Ford says Do Not lift the the rear of the vehicle by jacking the rear diff.

If you doubt it crawl under the car an see how flimsy the axel tubes are.
 

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How can you tell the thickness of an axle tube by looking at it? Most 8.8's I've seen are beefy in that department.
 

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Rudi said:
Ford says Do Not lift the the rear of the vehicle by jacking the rear diff.

If you doubt it crawl under the car an see how flimsy the axel tubes are.
I Launch at 4,500 rpm 50 times a week on drag radials. I would have known by now if my axle tubes were weak :winks

Q) And what holds up the rear of the car when it's on the road?

A) The Rear Axle.
 

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thump_rrr said:
I Launch at 4,500 rpm 50 times a week on drag radials. I would have known by now if my axle tubes were weak :winks

Q) And what holds up the rear of the car when it's on the road?

A) The Rear Axle.
With the help of springs and struts... now you're going to lift the whole rear end on the rear end... putting it all in an angle plus the pressure point of about 2" diameter right uner the diff compired to evenly spread over the axle to the rear wheels...?!?

Not arguing just asking... it can't be as 'safe' as the sub frame of the car etc...??
 

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kj_cinci said:
With the help of springs and struts... now you're going to lift the whole rear end on the rear end... putting it all in an angle plus the pressure point of about 2" diameter right uner the diff compired to evenly spread over the axle to the rear wheels...?!?

Not arguing just asking... it can't be as 'safe' as the sub frame of the car etc...??
Actually apart from the weight of the rear wheels and driveshaft all the rear weight sits on the spring perches on top of the axle tubes. If we remember our highschool physics class the direction of the force would be straight down through the axle tube at the spring perch.

When I jack up the rear from the diff it's because I want the rear weight to be sprung such as when I replace the rear control arms.

So I lift it from the diff to place it on axle stands.

Only an idiot would get under a car with only a jack holding it up.

One way to look at it is that my floor jack has a 3"Dia. pad which has an area of 7 square inches.

With a 47% rear weight distribution at 3500Lbs. the rear weight is 1645Lbs.

1645/7=235psi. which is not very much for a chunk of cast iron.

If I was worried that I would break the diff from jacking the car I'd be more worried about my Aprox. 500 drag launches the car has already made :tongue

I'm not arguing either just looking at it from a different perspective.
 

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I'd jack mine on the diff for the weekend wheel swap but my crummy a$$ jack will barely fit under the diff but there will be no pumping... lol... I do a side at a time... works fine!

Kinda on subject... any recs against using my new tq-wrench for LOOSENING the wheel nuts? Just easier with the special key etc...
 

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it's usually a better idea to use a normal wrench for loosening bolts. The shock of the lug nut breaking free can do some strange things to calibrated tools. Also remember to store your torque wrench at it's lowest possible setting.
 

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Fleg said:
it's usually a better idea to use a normal wrench for loosening bolts. The shock of the lug nut breaking free can do some strange things to calibrated tools. Also remember to store your torque wrench at it's lowest possible setting.
Yup, I thought so... but am lazy... lol, will 'only' use it once a week, prolly less... It says to store it at 20 lbs so that's what I do... any lower and it's redicilously loose... guess it wants to be engaged but not tense...?
 

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Does it go down below 20ft/lbs? Engaged but no tension is about right. If you store it under a load it will screw up the calibration on it.
 

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Yea, I think the last mark is 5... but again there is no tension in the handle, it's not sprung?, below 10-15 or so... and manual calls for 20...
 
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