JLT Oil Separator looseness

1483 Views 9 Replies 6 Participants Last post by 2011GrabberGT, Jul 4, 2011

2011GrabberGT

Discussion Starter · Jul 2, 2011

Hi all, first actual thread of mine here!

I am running a JLT oil separator on the passenger side and I noticed that the fitment at the connections is very loose now compared to when it was originally installed 4-5 thousand miles ago (15,600 on the car). The can body also touches the VCT solenoid wiring, which will chafe through eventually. I expressed concern with that and the lack of any bracing or bracketing since it is essentially just flopping around several months ago.

I'm now thinking about making something to support the can and give it clearance from the wiring. As is, I think it will eventually fatigue and fail, and I think the O-rings in the connector ends will wear and leak first. The can has substantial weight and the nylon tubes and quick connectors aren't meant to be load bearing. Vibration and heat will only make it worse. This would explain the looseness, especially at the valve end.

The can will eventually rub through the VCT wiring since it is only taped and not convolute wrapped. It could take 50K miles, but it'll happen sooner or later. I'm going to check the connector seals and fab something up, but I was curious if anybody else running this part with substantial mileage (no 70-800 mile virgins please!) is noticing the same thing. I'll try zip tying it, if possible, first since it would obviously be the cheap and easy route.

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YerBuddysPony

· #2 · Jul 3, 2011

2011GrabberGT said:
Hi all, first actual thread of mine here!

I am running a JLT oil separator on the passenger side and I noticed that the fitment at the connections is very loose now compared to when it was originally installed 4-5 thousand miles ago (15,600 on the car). The can body also touches the VCT solenoid wiring, which will chafe through eventually. I expressed concern with that and the lack of any bracing or bracketing since it is essentially just flopping around several months ago.

I'm now thinking about making something to support the can and give it clearance from the wiring. As is, I think it will eventually fatigue and fail, and I think the O-rings in the connector ends will wear and leak first. The can has substantial weight and the nylon tubes and quick connectors aren't meant to be load bearing. Vibration and heat will only make it worse. This would explain the looseness, especially at the valve end.

The can will eventually rub through the VCT wiring since it is only taped and not convolute wrapped. It could take 50K miles, but it'll happen sooner or later. I'm going to check the connector seals and fab something up, but I was curious if anybody else running this part with substantial mileage (no 70-800 mile virgins please!) is noticing the same thing. I'll try zip tying it, if possible, first since it would obviously be the cheap and easy route.

Interesting. I know you stated no "virgins please", but... It will be the first thing I put on mine when I pick it up next week (hopefully). I'd really appreciate pictures of what you fab or a description of what you do to make it better. Good luck!

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2011GrabberGT

Discussion Starter · #3 · Jul 3, 2011

No pics yet, but I used several zip ties to lash the throttle body hose to the main wiring harness loom near the engine cover side, and I did the same to the other end using the VCT harness. I also used a heat gun to tweak the lines so that they are not contacting the wiring, oil fill cap, and to keep the can from hitting the wiring.

It's actually fairly sturdy now, and it can't flop around anymore. The O-rings were still sealing, but you could see flatter areas from where they were wearing from movement. If this doesn't hold up, I'll have to make a bracket from one of the valve cover studs to the machine screw holes in the top of the can. I'll try to snag some pics if I don't blow myself up this weekend.

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safetyfast

· #4 · Jul 3, 2011

My trick when working on old cars if there's a rub issue is to split a piece of tubing and wrap it around what I want to protect.

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YerBuddysPony

· #5 · Jul 3, 2011

Both of you make sense. I'll have to see what I can fab-up on my own. The first thing that came to my mind, for the rub issue, was one of those rubber coffee cozies (just for looks)--similar to cutting tubing. Other than that, it will be zip-stripped securely. :bigthumbsup

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rick_sudac

· #6 · Jul 4, 2011

Another useful item is a Teflon pot holder that is very flexible and heat resistant to 580. I used one on a frame member where my tail pipe was rubbing across it at idle or when driving on rough roads

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YerBuddysPony

· #7 · Jul 4, 2011

rick_sudac said:
Another useful item is a Teflon pot holder that is very flexible and heat resistant to 580. I used one on a frame member where my tail pipe was rubbing across it at idle or when driving on rough roads

Good idea. I'll be keeping an eye out.

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Plumbago

· #8 · Jul 4, 2011

There goes the Factory Warranty on the whole motor and drivetrain again...........Plum

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cababah

· #9 · Jul 4, 2011

Plumbago said:
There goes the Factory Warranty on the whole motor and drivetrain again...........Plum

were you sent by ford or something to go around trying to spread nonsense in each topic?

go away troll.

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2011GrabberGT

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jul 4, 2011

Here are some pics. The line going to the TB is still off, but it poses no hazards as it is so I'm going to leave it alone. There is very little clearance between the wiring and the can, but it is there so it's working. You can also see a bit of scorching on the PCV line; be careful with the heat gun! There is a very fine line between heating it enough to bend it and actually melting it. Boiling water may also be an option. It's really hot out, and the zip ties are holding up fine. No shifting has occurred, and the entire assembly is pretty rigid now. It is no longer flopping around.

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