I don't know of a link to one, but maybe we could start our own here in this thread. 24# injectors came on EFI 460 trucks as did MSD 6A boxes (Ford stickers). GT40P heads came on 98 and newer V8 Explorers as did the Explorer intake, very similar to a GT-40 or Cobra unit and 65MM throttle body. That engine also used an EDIS (Electronic Distributorless Ignition System), no distributor, utilized crank trigger, cam sensor etc, great for a megasquirt or aftermarket EFI system. I have a complete setup in my garage. Newer V6 Mustang have a World Class T5 with a steel bearing retainer, you just have to swap the rear tail housing to accomidate cable speedo on the foxes. That's all I can think of right now, but I know there's a ton more.
junkyard horsepower
I have looked back many pages and did a search on a thread that I saw a while back about "junkyard horsepower" ie; taurus fans,what to get #24 injectors from etc etc does anyone have a link?:clap
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Electric fans from Taurus' and Sables
I have dual electric fans from a newer Intrepid, works great.
Does anyone know what Ford cars come with the 130 amp alternator that will go in the Stangs?
94-95 had 3g's... carefull though because some of those are still 90amp alts. I don't know how to tell the difference, but there were 90 and 100 and 130 amp 3g's I believe.
Make sure you grab the pig tail
Make sure you grab the pig tail
you can find reman. 3g's that range all the way to 200 amp.
they could be off a desiel truck
Junkyard horsepower info
***Instructions***
If you post it I will update this thread with the info.
If you find errors post and tell me, if you have additions also post! This list is a compilation of many, MANY peoples lists and much personal experience by several different people across thousands of miles. It will never be 100% accurate, but I'll do what I can to get it as complete and accurate as I can.
Since this will be a normal on going forum thread too please put a * (or 3) in front and behind all the info you'd like to see in this thread and I'll do my best to organize everything. If you don't like the way I reorganize or re-word your stuff, or I miss something you wanted added, just post again calling me an #*%$) and I'll try to it right!
***Instructions***
1BAD6T6 put nearly everything below together in the super long ongoing Junkyard Horsepower thread found here. Since I don't think the original poster will ever update I figure it's a good time to start a new one. Again credit for most of this current list goes to 1BAD6T6:
Engine
FYI on any moving internal engine part that is in contact with motor oil, beware. The recent "cash for clunkers" program dumped MANY MANY complete cars into junkyards that now have engines that are completely destroyed. The process as described to me involved draining oil, putting in a liquid glass (sodium silicate) in the engine then running them at redline until they sieze. What damage is done I do not know.
Throttle Body
Ford Explorer 1996-98 5.0L 65mm req. linkage modification
Save your Fox TB to use the lever in which the cable attaches.
Heads
GT40's:
93 to 95 Lightnings
93-95 Cobra
Late 95- Early 97 Explorer (not milled as much as the Cobra GT40s)
1.84/1.54, 62-65cc, labled with GT in the corner and 3 bars on the end/front
mid 97-01 Explorers = GT40P 1.84/1.48, 60-62CC, angle plug, 4 bars on the front
351W D0OE or C9AE - 69-71 351w's 1.84/1.54, 60-62cc, large straight plug
289 heads - Small chambers
D8OE 351W - (Used on trucks and 87-84 Mustangs) 1.84/1.54, large chambers, good for sc/turbo
Intake Manifold
96-01 Explorer:
96-97 explorers - cobra style intake with internal egr & IAT provisions RF-F87E-9K461-BA
97/98-00 explorers - cobra style intake with cheaper casting & no EGR & no IAT RF-F87E-9K461-BB
5/16-18 x 6" bolts x 4
5/16-18 x 1" bolts x 2
3/8" npt tap for IAT
302 EFI Truck Lower - Holley type design, fits Saleen/Vortec and several box uppers
93-95 Cobra intake
93-95 Lightning
95 Cobra R
MAF Sensor
While many of these meters will work, some will need you to run your own electronics (so you're only using the tube), and MOST will requrie some sort of aftermarket tune to work correctly. From what I've read the only one that is a direct bolt in replacement is the 94/95 5.0 or 3.8 that works with 19lb injectors (part# F2VF-12B579-A1A or A2A)., although I've read yes and no for the 4.6 Thunderbird's 70mm unit when you remove it's electronics and re-use your own
4.6 mass air meters (2v=70mm 4v=80mm)
Lincoln Mark 8, 80mm for 24lb
90mm Lightning MAF for 42# injectors
92-95 SuperCoupe, 70mm for 36's
Ford Mustang 1994-1995 V6 or 5.0L 70mm
Ford Crown Victoria 1992-1994 4.6L 70mm
Lincoln Towncar 1992-1994 4.6L 70mm
Mercury Grand Marquis 1992-1994 4.6L 70mm
94-97 Thunderbird 4.6 70mm housing is a direct bolt on to stock fox maf bracket. (I suspect same housing as 93 cobra.) This appears to be part # F4SF.
Injectors
Injector PICTURES
Ford 19lb injectors (high impedance) #s: E5TE, D5B, F78E, F6VE
96+ Explorer 5.0 has better 19's than Mustangs
Ford 21lb injectors (high) #s: D9B, F65E (305/350 GM)
Ford 22lb injectors (high) #s: FOTE-D9B (vetts and range rovers)
Ford 23lb injectors (high) #s: F7TE, F8TE (7.5L truck)
Ford 24lb injectors (high) #s: F5DE, F1TZ, F2LE, F2LE-9F593-B2A, FMS-M-9593-A302
Ford 24lb injectors Ford 93-95 Mustang Cobra
Ford 24lb injectors 93-01 Lincoln Mark 8
Ford 24lb injectors other DOHC 4.6
Ford 24lb injectors 88-97 EFI 460's F250-450 & E250-450
Ford 24lb injectors Lincoln Aviator w/4v 4.6
Ford 24lb injectors Lincoln Navigator w/4v 5.4
26lb '00 LS1 F body, maybe '99 to?, same as Ford 24's
Ford 30lb injectors (high) #s: E9SE, F1SE, F1SE-E1A (3.8SC and SuperCoupes)
Ford 30lb injectors: 95/96 Ford 4.0L Explorer & Ranger & Other **I've read confirmed reports of this being wrong check part numbers before you buy! **
Ford 30lb injectors: 89-93 SuperCoupe
Ford 36lb injectors: 94-95 SuperCoupe
Ford 39lb 03-04 Cobra
Ford 42lb 99+ Lightning
Taurus SVO some years had 24s some had 30s
I've noticed that several of the newer 4.6L cars have a newer design thinner injector that appears squared off instead of the round bodies we're all used to*. I pulled a set of 19s in this design and found that 1 of the injectors (cylinder #4 I think) that about a 30* bend on the head of the injector. Don't know if that will cause problems with our cars by spraying the fuel at an intake wall instead of down at the piston.
Much of this info taken from the most complete injector list I've seen yet here.
Be careful if you see injectors that you think may work. If they are "Low Impedance" you can cook your computer.
Convert to 351 Section
***More coming SOON***
Please read the Alternative Auto "Every Nut and Bolt" waterbox archive on doing a 351 conversion.
351 Shortblocks
93 to 95 Ford Vans and possible F-150s in these years. Look for part #F4TE
All 351's cast after 1993 should have the risers and bosses to accept a factory roller setup even though many were built as flat hydraulic.
Oil Pan
Oil pan from late 90s crown vic's with 351 is a double hump design and can be used if you plan on doing a 351 conversion in your fox.
Drivetrain
Aluminum Driveshaft
92-95 AWD Aerostar, swap yoke(s), 353 (napa) conversion ujoints, 3" dia
96-97 AWD Aerostar, direct bolt on, 3" dia
Crown vic p-71, taxi (crown vics), and 93 mark 8's can be shortened to fit a Mustang, 3.5" dia
There's much discussion about this, most people seem to think that any driveshaft you get from a junkyard will likely need reparied since common practice is to use a forklift to pick the cars up and move them around, thus destroying the driveshaft. If you have personally pulled one, please post your experience (if it needed work, if it was the right length, etc) and if you don't mind sharing the info, what JY you pulled it from. Aerostar shaft is 3" diameter where FMS one is 3.5". This does not seem to be an issue as no one has reported busting an aerostar one yet.
Aluminum diff covers
Crown Vic/Grand Marquis 8.8's
TBird 5.0 and SC IRS covers are ribbed
Gears
ID Tags 3L55 and 3L73
87-88 Turbo Coupes, F150, 4.0 Ranger, Bronco II, Explorer, SVO, Lincoln Mark 7 LSC
8.8 3.73 Came in 4.0L 4X4 Rangers and Explorers with a 5 speed.
8.8 4.10 came in 96/97ish newer 4.0 4X4 rangers and explorers. with auto
Most of the two wheel drive 4.0L ranger and Exp. had 3.55 as well as any half ton pickup.
All full size Bronco's had 3.55's and tlock
87-88 T-bird Turbo coupe auto - 3.73, 5-speed - 3.55
Ford Ranger 4x4 1990+ 4.0L 3.73 M/T
Ford Ranger 4x4 1990+ 4.0L 4.10 A/T
Ford Ranger 4x2 Year? 4.0L 3.55
Ford Explorer Year ?Engine? 3.55
Ford F150 Year? 5.0 or4.6 3.55
Trac lock
Ford F150 84+? 31 spl w/ s sprg
Ford Explorer Year? 5.0L 31 spl w/ s sprg
Ford Bronco 84+? 31 spl w/ s sprg
All 02+ Ford Ranger 31 diff may be limited slip may not, more common with 3.73 and 4.11 gears.
Transmissions
**********Auto**********
98+ vehicles came with the most updated factory 4R70W.
-5.0/5.8 has the same bell housing as 3.8/4.2/3.9(04 V6 Mustang)
- The aforementioned means you can get a mini starter from V6 mustangs and F-150s.
-Upgrade overdrive band in your AOD to a 2 inch wide from a 4R70W, you will need to find an AODE, and get the reverse sun shell, and get the reverse drum from a 98+ 4R70W with the mechanical intermediate diode.
-93 MarkVIII (ALL were 4R70W equipped) "supposedly" is the best outputshaft for your AOD.
-Driveshaft yoke upgrade consists of 4R70W extension housing, and the driveshaft flange that will accompany it.
-Best Overdrive servo for AODs came in Thunder bird Super coupes and 93 model AOD transmissions.
-AOD is identified by Automatic Overdrive written on the pan. If not then there is only one plug with 3 pins on the left side of the case about in the middle right above the pan level.
-4R70W identified by a fluid sump in the middle of the pan and it will read METRIC on it and the output shaft seal will likely be yellow in color.
-AODE is identified by a white plug located on the right rear of the transmission case before the exension housing.
-If in doubt, 1995 was the last year all three transmissions were in production. After that, its all 4R70W (updated from 1993)
-4R70W gears are lower in first and second and will go into an AOD case with no problems. (like putting lower gears in the differential for 1st and 2nd gears!)
**********Manual**********
T-5 transmissions out of 4cyl mustangs can be used in a 5.0 if you replace your pilot bearing with one of these:
Pilot bushing for a 4cyl. T5 to a 302/351
pilot bushing out of an '84 ranger
Carquest: BCA 202 FF
AutoZone: Motormite 14672 1984 Ford Ranger 2.2 diesel
Motormite 14657 SVO Mustang
Motormite 14367 ???
AdvanceAuto: #14665 ?
Brakes
4 lug Drum to Disc conversion parts.
This is for people that want to stick with a 4 lug setup and still convert the rear to disc brakes while keeping their stock axles.
Rear Left & Right Calipers p/n 4508 & 4509 can be cound on the following cars:
1993-1993 Ford Mustang
1989-1992 Ford Taurus
1987-1988 Ford Thunderbird
1988-1992 Lincoln Continental
1991-1992 Lincoln Mark VII
1987-1988 Mercury Cougar
1990-1992 Mercury Sable
Grab the rear brake soft lines P/N 380371 & 380372 from:
1994-1998 Ford Mustang
Grab some 4 Lug Rotors p/n 5455 from:
1993-1993 Ford Mustang
1987-1988 Ford Thunderbird
Master Cylinder with the 1 1/8" bore from
1984-1986 Ford Mustang
1974-1989 Lincoln Continental
1984-1989 Lincoln Mark VII
E-Brake cables from:
Ford Racing p/n: M2809A (I'm working on finding junkyard equivalents.)
The other Misc parts you need are listed at northracecars dot com in their 4-lug disc brake section and other various tutorials regarding disc conversion . The caliper bracket they sell is not something you can pick up in the Junkyard. You could probably find the E-Brake cables in the Junkyard. I'll look into that more and will update my post here after I track down the part.
5 lug swap and other Brakes
**********Drums**********
-'83-'92 Ranger/Bronco II Left (driver) side axle (29-5/32") from a 4cyl or 3.0L V-6 with the 7.5" rear end,
-'86-'97 Aerostar RIGHT side (passenger) axles (29-5/32")
-9" Ranger/BroncoII Drums
**********Disks**********
----NEW INFO TO ME----
Go 5 lug but keep stock length axles!!!
see thread here: Thread 1
another thread Follow the instructions on page 3 by Black306, post #97.
You can use Ranger axles with all brake stuff off an SN95 simply by notching the brackets and flipping the right to left and left to right. I have not confirmed this myself. The 2nd one has better pictures. Due to changing the brackets from outside to inside the mount, the inside of the bracket should be either rounded (grinded down) or use spacers to keep the bracket from chewing into the welds on the back of the mount.
If you like the idea, but you don't want to cut brackets yourself check out the North Racecars brackets here
----END new info----
-95 to 91 Lincoln Mark VII or 84 to 86 SVO front rotors can be used for a 5 lug swap, but will not work with OE wheels past 98 (UNLESS you use freeze plug instead of dust cap)
73mm Front Calipers (Both Steel and Phenolic pistons):
-86-91 Lincoln Mark VII
-86-91 Crown Vic
-SVO Mustang 84-86
Master Cylinder:
-93 Cobra
-94-98 V6 (GT/Cobra = soft pedal?)
-87-89 Turbo Coupe Rear ends w/Gears & 4 lug Disc Brakes
94-95 V6 Mustang complete disc brake 5 lug swap setup (axles are the correct length for foxes and bolt into a fox 8.8).****EDIT**** This V6 5 lug info may not be 100% accurate. From everything I've seen all SN95 axles are 3/4" longer than fox axles so you will need more backspacing on the rear wheels ****EDIT****
94-95 V6 & V8 Mustang front spindles for 5 lug (96-98 have different spindles)
99+ Mustangs - aluminum PBR dual piston calipers bolt up to the 94-95 spindles that can be used on foxes. Keep the banjo bolts that come with the newer calipers!
Some info stolen from here. If you're going to do a 5 lug conversion click that link and READ THE WHOLE THING!. There's also several other links in the sticky at the top of the "General Mustang Tech" forum here that has other 5 lug conversion info linked.
link with pictures about doing an SN95 front suspension including steering.
Electrical and other
Alternator
Good write up with pics on the swap here
These cars have 3G 130A clocked at 12:00 and will require fox bracket notched:
94-95 GT Mustang
94-06 V6 Mustang
94-97 3.8L Thunderbird **NON-S/C**
94-97 V6 t-bird
These cars have 3G 130A or 110A in a larger case clocked where connector will be jammed under the bracket. You can make these work, but they're not the ideal 3G for fox app upgrades:
93/94-99 3.0L Taurus (not 3.8L, check the 93, this may or may not have 3G)
95-98 3.0L Windstar
Small case 3G 95A with correct clocking and correct regulator. Some have incorrect 2 groove pulley, some have correct 6 groove:
92-94 3.0L Aerostar (early 92s were 2G not 3G, so check before you buy)
96-97 F series pickup with a 7.5L
Some of these use larger cased alternator, but can work, not all 3G's were 130a, see info here
Other, not sure of their clocking or output:
94-04 3.8 (-98? small case, 95a?)
3.8L 94-97 T-bird/cougar
94-96 F-150 5.0L and 5.8L came with both 130A and 95A
3G's with WRONG casing:
3.8L Windstar does not seem to have the correct housing.
3.8L Taurus
Other Electrical
The bracket and megafuse holder off of a 97 Expedition can be used in conjunction with the 3G upgrade. The bracket houses 2 175amp megafuse in seperate carriers with individual covers. Also found them on a 97 F250. Cut em down, drill two 1/4" holes and they'll mount to the coil bracket.
Don't forget to pick up some extra relays. These cost over $10 at most auto parts stores and are pocket items at the JY. I always keep a spare in my car incase my fuel pump relay goes.
High Torque Mini Starters
*check B4 u buy, some years may be standard "big" starters, since these came standard on the 92/93 5.0L I'd guess they were harder to find on other cars b4 those years and easier to find after*
(1992-96) Ford Bronco 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L w/ AT
(1992-02) Ford E Series 4.2L, 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L
(1992-98) Ford F Series 4.2L, 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L
(1990-91) Ford LTD Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis 5.0L
(1994-04) Ford Mustang 3.8L
(1992-95) Ford Mustang 5.0L
(1990) Ford Thunderbird 3.8L/Supercharged
(1991-97) Ford Thunderbird 3.8L, (1991-93) 5.0L
(1990-92) Lincoln Mark VII 5.0L
(1990) Lincoln Town Car 5.0L
***Retrofits***
(1982-91) Ford Mustangs 5.0L (302 CID) All
(1968-79) Ford Mustangs 5.0L (302 CID) w/ AT
(1969-73) Ford Mustangs 5.8L (351 CID) w/ AT
Electric Fans
94+ Mustang v6
94-96 Cougar
3.8L 88-95 Taurus or
3.8L 88-94 Lincoln Continental
Lincoln Mark 8
Ford Contour and FWD Mercury Cougar dual fans
Dodge Intrepid dual fans
Grand Marquis
Ford Windstar/Mercury Villager
98-00? Mercury Mistique
Nissan Quest minivan and Mercury Villager fan is said to be a perfect fit
"seem to fit based on your level of tolerance to fabricate brackets and such from what I've read. Personally, I have a 2 spd from a 94 Villager." 1BAD6T6
Link to good writeup on changing to Mark 8 Fan
Radiator
Late 5.0 Cougars have nice alum. radiators (these fit the Mark 8 electric fans really good)
Suspension
4 Cylinder front springs
SVO Front end - (better k member, control arms, 73mm calipers)
T-bird front control arms (longer than mustang) widetrack (same as SN-95?)
94-04 A-arms can replace your existing Fox A-Arms. This is probably only done by those with a 79 to 86 chassis, upgrading their brakes, since the K-Member is narrower. The longer A-Arms put your tires out where they should be. Maximum Motorsports talks about the advantages on a Fox here.
Manual steering racks and brake pedals on early Mustangs
Pullies
85 PS Pulley (much larger than 86+), also check mid 80's Thunderbird/Cougars
Any 3g style alt pulley on a 2g
D9ZE-8509-AA WP pulley, 5 1/2" dia., SSP WP Pulley? possibly 85-86 as well, 80's Crown Vic 302
93 Cobra crank pulley
Power adders
Turbos!!!
There's been several thread on DIY junkyard twin turbo setups. If someone's got a link to add lemme know!
courtesy of ocshaman:
BUICK GNX 87 3.8L GAR TB0348
BUICK Monte Carlo/Regal 78-83 3.8L carbed GAR TB0348
BUICK Riviera 80-85 3.8L GAR TB0308
BUICK Grand National/T-Type 86-87 3.8L (Intercooled) GAR TB0348 (TA48)
BUICK Trans Am 89 3.8L GAR TB0348 (water)
BUICK Century 78 3.8L GAR TB0301
BUICK Century 79 3.8L GAR TB0304
BUICK Century 80 3.8L GAR TB0308
CHEVY Sprint 1.0L IHI RHB31
CHEVY Spectrum 85-90 1.5L IHI RHB521
CHRYSLER Conquest, Intercooled 87 2.6L MHI TD05
CHRYSLER Laser (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
CHRYSLER Laser (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Town & Country 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER Town & Country 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Charger/Shelby 87-90 2.2L GAR TB03 (water)
CHRYSLER Shelby CSX-Daytona/Baron GTC/Shadow ES 89-90 2.2L GAR TB03 VNT (variable nozzle)
DODGE 600 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE 600 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Aries 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Caravan 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Conquest (Intercooled) 87 2.6L MHI TD05
DODGE Daytona 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Lancer 89 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Omni 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Shadow 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Spirit 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
EAGLE Talon (Manual) 90-94 2.0L MHI TD05H (45 trim)
EAGLE Talon (Auto) 90-95 2.0L MHI TD04
EAGLE Talon (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)
FORD Mustang GT 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
FORD Mustang GT/T-bird 83-84 GAR (AiR) TB0344
FORD Probe GT 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (watercooled)
FORD T-Bird 87-88 (water) IHI RHB52
FORD Fiesta 90+ 1.6L GAR T2
FORD Escort 84-86 IHI RHB5
ISUZU MPR Truck 88-92 IHI RHB6-A
MAZDA 626, MX6 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W
MAZDA 323 GTX turbo 88-89 1.6L IHI RHB52W (water)
MERCEDES 300D, SDT, TD 78-84 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL 78-83 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL (Calif.) 86-87 3.0L GAR TB0359
MERCURY Capri 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERCURY Cougar 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERKUR XR4Ti 85-88 2.3L GAR TB0344
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)
MITSUBISHI Galant (Auto) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD04
MITSUBISHI Galant (Manual) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Starion (Intercooled) 85-87 2.6L MHI TD05
MITSUBISHI 3000GT VR4 - 2x MHI TD04H
PLYMOUTH Acclaim 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Conquest, Intercooled 85-89 2.6L MHI TD05
PLYMOUTH Laser (Auto) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD04
PLYMOUTH Laser (Manual) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD05H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Voyager 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 88-90 2.0L GAR T2
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 84-86 1.8L GAR T2
PONTIAC Grand Prix 89-90 3.1L GAR T25 (water)
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 87-88 2.0L GAR TB0356
SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 87 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 84-86 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 85-86 2.0L GAR TB0343
SAAB 900 (8V, APC) 82-84 2.0L GAR TB0321
VOLVO 200 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0313
VOLVO 740 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 740 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 760 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 760 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 780 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 780 90 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 780 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 940 91-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 200 Watercooled Upgrade 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0368
VOLVO 740 (Oil Cooled) 83-85 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 740 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 760 (Oil Cooled) 83-86 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 760 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VW Passat, 97+ (oil) 1.8L GAR GT15
GAR=Garrett, AiR=AiResearch, MHI=Mitsubishi Heavy industries, MIT=Mitsubishi
This is a list of turbos from a junkyard that you might find for a twin setup. Most people go with turbo coupe to Merkur turbos. Turbostangman uses Gn turbos and used Eclipse turbos. For single turbo setups, check out any diesel truck that you might run into.
GM uses a turbo on their 6.5 L diesel that some guys run
and some guys are getting into Holset turbos from Cummins Diesel. There is also Ford turbo diesel, and anything you could get off a big rig, but that would be getting too big for most people. A turbo JY upgrade is not for the noob, so be sure you've got lots of time, hopefully a couple friends to help and some cash for the stuff you just can't get at the JY.
Interior
****NEW***** (thanks aod109, I read about this in a 5.0 or MMFF mag years ago too)
1998 GT seats drop right into a 1986 LX. Manual seats work, power seats = unknown. U can use the 1998 seat rails or the stock 1986 seat rails. The 1998 seat rails are a tad lower than the 1986 seat rails. These seats are a massive improvement from the buckets that came in my LX. And only cost $40 total (from the Pick-A-Part) for both seats + rail/brackets.
-Lowers driver seating position by .5-.75 inches
-Has hip & side bolsters.
-Firmer seat and back cushion/foam for less "bouncey" feel.
-5 Lbs lighter per seat
-Seat back actually locks in place so that when you stomp on the brakes the seat back doesn't try to push you forward.
Last edited by slo5oh; 01-05-2011 at 12:11 PM.:worship
***Instructions***
If you post it I will update this thread with the info.
If you find errors post and tell me, if you have additions also post! This list is a compilation of many, MANY peoples lists and much personal experience by several different people across thousands of miles. It will never be 100% accurate, but I'll do what I can to get it as complete and accurate as I can.
Since this will be a normal on going forum thread too please put a * (or 3) in front and behind all the info you'd like to see in this thread and I'll do my best to organize everything. If you don't like the way I reorganize or re-word your stuff, or I miss something you wanted added, just post again calling me an #*%$) and I'll try to it right!
***Instructions***
1BAD6T6 put nearly everything below together in the super long ongoing Junkyard Horsepower thread found here. Since I don't think the original poster will ever update I figure it's a good time to start a new one. Again credit for most of this current list goes to 1BAD6T6:
Engine
FYI on any moving internal engine part that is in contact with motor oil, beware. The recent "cash for clunkers" program dumped MANY MANY complete cars into junkyards that now have engines that are completely destroyed. The process as described to me involved draining oil, putting in a liquid glass (sodium silicate) in the engine then running them at redline until they sieze. What damage is done I do not know.
Throttle Body
Ford Explorer 1996-98 5.0L 65mm req. linkage modification
Save your Fox TB to use the lever in which the cable attaches.
Heads
GT40's:
93 to 95 Lightnings
93-95 Cobra
Late 95- Early 97 Explorer (not milled as much as the Cobra GT40s)
1.84/1.54, 62-65cc, labled with GT in the corner and 3 bars on the end/front
mid 97-01 Explorers = GT40P 1.84/1.48, 60-62CC, angle plug, 4 bars on the front
351W D0OE or C9AE - 69-71 351w's 1.84/1.54, 60-62cc, large straight plug
289 heads - Small chambers
D8OE 351W - (Used on trucks and 87-84 Mustangs) 1.84/1.54, large chambers, good for sc/turbo
Intake Manifold
96-01 Explorer:
96-97 explorers - cobra style intake with internal egr & IAT provisions RF-F87E-9K461-BA
97/98-00 explorers - cobra style intake with cheaper casting & no EGR & no IAT RF-F87E-9K461-BB
5/16-18 x 6" bolts x 4
5/16-18 x 1" bolts x 2
3/8" npt tap for IAT
302 EFI Truck Lower - Holley type design, fits Saleen/Vortec and several box uppers
93-95 Cobra intake
93-95 Lightning
95 Cobra R
MAF Sensor
While many of these meters will work, some will need you to run your own electronics (so you're only using the tube), and MOST will requrie some sort of aftermarket tune to work correctly. From what I've read the only one that is a direct bolt in replacement is the 94/95 5.0 or 3.8 that works with 19lb injectors (part# F2VF-12B579-A1A or A2A)., although I've read yes and no for the 4.6 Thunderbird's 70mm unit when you remove it's electronics and re-use your own
4.6 mass air meters (2v=70mm 4v=80mm)
Lincoln Mark 8, 80mm for 24lb
90mm Lightning MAF for 42# injectors
92-95 SuperCoupe, 70mm for 36's
Ford Mustang 1994-1995 V6 or 5.0L 70mm
Ford Crown Victoria 1992-1994 4.6L 70mm
Lincoln Towncar 1992-1994 4.6L 70mm
Mercury Grand Marquis 1992-1994 4.6L 70mm
94-97 Thunderbird 4.6 70mm housing is a direct bolt on to stock fox maf bracket. (I suspect same housing as 93 cobra.) This appears to be part # F4SF.
Injectors
Injector PICTURES
Ford 19lb injectors (high impedance) #s: E5TE, D5B, F78E, F6VE
96+ Explorer 5.0 has better 19's than Mustangs
Ford 21lb injectors (high) #s: D9B, F65E (305/350 GM)
Ford 22lb injectors (high) #s: FOTE-D9B (vetts and range rovers)
Ford 23lb injectors (high) #s: F7TE, F8TE (7.5L truck)
Ford 24lb injectors (high) #s: F5DE, F1TZ, F2LE, F2LE-9F593-B2A, FMS-M-9593-A302
Ford 24lb injectors Ford 93-95 Mustang Cobra
Ford 24lb injectors 93-01 Lincoln Mark 8
Ford 24lb injectors other DOHC 4.6
Ford 24lb injectors 88-97 EFI 460's F250-450 & E250-450
Ford 24lb injectors Lincoln Aviator w/4v 4.6
Ford 24lb injectors Lincoln Navigator w/4v 5.4
26lb '00 LS1 F body, maybe '99 to?, same as Ford 24's
Ford 30lb injectors (high) #s: E9SE, F1SE, F1SE-E1A (3.8SC and SuperCoupes)
Ford 30lb injectors: 95/96 Ford 4.0L Explorer & Ranger & Other **I've read confirmed reports of this being wrong check part numbers before you buy! **
Ford 30lb injectors: 89-93 SuperCoupe
Ford 36lb injectors: 94-95 SuperCoupe
Ford 39lb 03-04 Cobra
Ford 42lb 99+ Lightning
Taurus SVO some years had 24s some had 30s
I've noticed that several of the newer 4.6L cars have a newer design thinner injector that appears squared off instead of the round bodies we're all used to*. I pulled a set of 19s in this design and found that 1 of the injectors (cylinder #4 I think) that about a 30* bend on the head of the injector. Don't know if that will cause problems with our cars by spraying the fuel at an intake wall instead of down at the piston.
Much of this info taken from the most complete injector list I've seen yet here.
Be careful if you see injectors that you think may work. If they are "Low Impedance" you can cook your computer.
Convert to 351 Section
***More coming SOON***
Please read the Alternative Auto "Every Nut and Bolt" waterbox archive on doing a 351 conversion.
351 Shortblocks
93 to 95 Ford Vans and possible F-150s in these years. Look for part #F4TE
All 351's cast after 1993 should have the risers and bosses to accept a factory roller setup even though many were built as flat hydraulic.
Oil Pan
Oil pan from late 90s crown vic's with 351 is a double hump design and can be used if you plan on doing a 351 conversion in your fox.
Drivetrain
Aluminum Driveshaft
92-95 AWD Aerostar, swap yoke(s), 353 (napa) conversion ujoints, 3" dia
96-97 AWD Aerostar, direct bolt on, 3" dia
Crown vic p-71, taxi (crown vics), and 93 mark 8's can be shortened to fit a Mustang, 3.5" dia
There's much discussion about this, most people seem to think that any driveshaft you get from a junkyard will likely need reparied since common practice is to use a forklift to pick the cars up and move them around, thus destroying the driveshaft. If you have personally pulled one, please post your experience (if it needed work, if it was the right length, etc) and if you don't mind sharing the info, what JY you pulled it from. Aerostar shaft is 3" diameter where FMS one is 3.5". This does not seem to be an issue as no one has reported busting an aerostar one yet.
Aluminum diff covers
Crown Vic/Grand Marquis 8.8's
TBird 5.0 and SC IRS covers are ribbed
Gears
ID Tags 3L55 and 3L73
87-88 Turbo Coupes, F150, 4.0 Ranger, Bronco II, Explorer, SVO, Lincoln Mark 7 LSC
8.8 3.73 Came in 4.0L 4X4 Rangers and Explorers with a 5 speed.
8.8 4.10 came in 96/97ish newer 4.0 4X4 rangers and explorers. with auto
Most of the two wheel drive 4.0L ranger and Exp. had 3.55 as well as any half ton pickup.
All full size Bronco's had 3.55's and tlock
87-88 T-bird Turbo coupe auto - 3.73, 5-speed - 3.55
Ford Ranger 4x4 1990+ 4.0L 3.73 M/T
Ford Ranger 4x4 1990+ 4.0L 4.10 A/T
Ford Ranger 4x2 Year? 4.0L 3.55
Ford Explorer Year ?Engine? 3.55
Ford F150 Year? 5.0 or4.6 3.55
Trac lock
Ford F150 84+? 31 spl w/ s sprg
Ford Explorer Year? 5.0L 31 spl w/ s sprg
Ford Bronco 84+? 31 spl w/ s sprg
All 02+ Ford Ranger 31 diff may be limited slip may not, more common with 3.73 and 4.11 gears.
Transmissions
**********Auto**********
98+ vehicles came with the most updated factory 4R70W.
-5.0/5.8 has the same bell housing as 3.8/4.2/3.9(04 V6 Mustang)
- The aforementioned means you can get a mini starter from V6 mustangs and F-150s.
-Upgrade overdrive band in your AOD to a 2 inch wide from a 4R70W, you will need to find an AODE, and get the reverse sun shell, and get the reverse drum from a 98+ 4R70W with the mechanical intermediate diode.
-93 MarkVIII (ALL were 4R70W equipped) "supposedly" is the best outputshaft for your AOD.
-Driveshaft yoke upgrade consists of 4R70W extension housing, and the driveshaft flange that will accompany it.
-Best Overdrive servo for AODs came in Thunder bird Super coupes and 93 model AOD transmissions.
-AOD is identified by Automatic Overdrive written on the pan. If not then there is only one plug with 3 pins on the left side of the case about in the middle right above the pan level.
-4R70W identified by a fluid sump in the middle of the pan and it will read METRIC on it and the output shaft seal will likely be yellow in color.
-AODE is identified by a white plug located on the right rear of the transmission case before the exension housing.
-If in doubt, 1995 was the last year all three transmissions were in production. After that, its all 4R70W (updated from 1993)
-4R70W gears are lower in first and second and will go into an AOD case with no problems. (like putting lower gears in the differential for 1st and 2nd gears!)
**********Manual**********
T-5 transmissions out of 4cyl mustangs can be used in a 5.0 if you replace your pilot bearing with one of these:
Pilot bushing for a 4cyl. T5 to a 302/351
pilot bushing out of an '84 ranger
Carquest: BCA 202 FF
AutoZone: Motormite 14672 1984 Ford Ranger 2.2 diesel
Motormite 14657 SVO Mustang
Motormite 14367 ???
AdvanceAuto: #14665 ?
Brakes
4 lug Drum to Disc conversion parts.
This is for people that want to stick with a 4 lug setup and still convert the rear to disc brakes while keeping their stock axles.
Rear Left & Right Calipers p/n 4508 & 4509 can be cound on the following cars:
1993-1993 Ford Mustang
1989-1992 Ford Taurus
1987-1988 Ford Thunderbird
1988-1992 Lincoln Continental
1991-1992 Lincoln Mark VII
1987-1988 Mercury Cougar
1990-1992 Mercury Sable
Grab the rear brake soft lines P/N 380371 & 380372 from:
1994-1998 Ford Mustang
Grab some 4 Lug Rotors p/n 5455 from:
1993-1993 Ford Mustang
1987-1988 Ford Thunderbird
Master Cylinder with the 1 1/8" bore from
1984-1986 Ford Mustang
1974-1989 Lincoln Continental
1984-1989 Lincoln Mark VII
E-Brake cables from:
Ford Racing p/n: M2809A (I'm working on finding junkyard equivalents.)
The other Misc parts you need are listed at northracecars dot com in their 4-lug disc brake section and other various tutorials regarding disc conversion . The caliper bracket they sell is not something you can pick up in the Junkyard. You could probably find the E-Brake cables in the Junkyard. I'll look into that more and will update my post here after I track down the part.
5 lug swap and other Brakes
**********Drums**********
-'83-'92 Ranger/Bronco II Left (driver) side axle (29-5/32") from a 4cyl or 3.0L V-6 with the 7.5" rear end,
-'86-'97 Aerostar RIGHT side (passenger) axles (29-5/32")
-9" Ranger/BroncoII Drums
**********Disks**********
----NEW INFO TO ME----
Go 5 lug but keep stock length axles!!!
see thread here: Thread 1
another thread Follow the instructions on page 3 by Black306, post #97.
You can use Ranger axles with all brake stuff off an SN95 simply by notching the brackets and flipping the right to left and left to right. I have not confirmed this myself. The 2nd one has better pictures. Due to changing the brackets from outside to inside the mount, the inside of the bracket should be either rounded (grinded down) or use spacers to keep the bracket from chewing into the welds on the back of the mount.
If you like the idea, but you don't want to cut brackets yourself check out the North Racecars brackets here
----END new info----
-95 to 91 Lincoln Mark VII or 84 to 86 SVO front rotors can be used for a 5 lug swap, but will not work with OE wheels past 98 (UNLESS you use freeze plug instead of dust cap)
73mm Front Calipers (Both Steel and Phenolic pistons):
-86-91 Lincoln Mark VII
-86-91 Crown Vic
-SVO Mustang 84-86
Master Cylinder:
-93 Cobra
-94-98 V6 (GT/Cobra = soft pedal?)
-87-89 Turbo Coupe Rear ends w/Gears & 4 lug Disc Brakes
94-95 V6 Mustang complete disc brake 5 lug swap setup (axles are the correct length for foxes and bolt into a fox 8.8).****EDIT**** This V6 5 lug info may not be 100% accurate. From everything I've seen all SN95 axles are 3/4" longer than fox axles so you will need more backspacing on the rear wheels ****EDIT****
94-95 V6 & V8 Mustang front spindles for 5 lug (96-98 have different spindles)
99+ Mustangs - aluminum PBR dual piston calipers bolt up to the 94-95 spindles that can be used on foxes. Keep the banjo bolts that come with the newer calipers!
Some info stolen from here. If you're going to do a 5 lug conversion click that link and READ THE WHOLE THING!. There's also several other links in the sticky at the top of the "General Mustang Tech" forum here that has other 5 lug conversion info linked.
link with pictures about doing an SN95 front suspension including steering.
Electrical and other
Alternator
Good write up with pics on the swap here
These cars have 3G 130A clocked at 12:00 and will require fox bracket notched:
94-95 GT Mustang
94-06 V6 Mustang
94-97 3.8L Thunderbird **NON-S/C**
94-97 V6 t-bird
These cars have 3G 130A or 110A in a larger case clocked where connector will be jammed under the bracket. You can make these work, but they're not the ideal 3G for fox app upgrades:
93/94-99 3.0L Taurus (not 3.8L, check the 93, this may or may not have 3G)
95-98 3.0L Windstar
Small case 3G 95A with correct clocking and correct regulator. Some have incorrect 2 groove pulley, some have correct 6 groove:
92-94 3.0L Aerostar (early 92s were 2G not 3G, so check before you buy)
96-97 F series pickup with a 7.5L
Some of these use larger cased alternator, but can work, not all 3G's were 130a, see info here
Other, not sure of their clocking or output:
94-04 3.8 (-98? small case, 95a?)
3.8L 94-97 T-bird/cougar
94-96 F-150 5.0L and 5.8L came with both 130A and 95A
3G's with WRONG casing:
3.8L Windstar does not seem to have the correct housing.
3.8L Taurus
Other Electrical
The bracket and megafuse holder off of a 97 Expedition can be used in conjunction with the 3G upgrade. The bracket houses 2 175amp megafuse in seperate carriers with individual covers. Also found them on a 97 F250. Cut em down, drill two 1/4" holes and they'll mount to the coil bracket.
Don't forget to pick up some extra relays. These cost over $10 at most auto parts stores and are pocket items at the JY. I always keep a spare in my car incase my fuel pump relay goes.
High Torque Mini Starters
*check B4 u buy, some years may be standard "big" starters, since these came standard on the 92/93 5.0L I'd guess they were harder to find on other cars b4 those years and easier to find after*
(1992-96) Ford Bronco 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L w/ AT
(1992-02) Ford E Series 4.2L, 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L
(1992-98) Ford F Series 4.2L, 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L
(1990-91) Ford LTD Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis 5.0L
(1994-04) Ford Mustang 3.8L
(1992-95) Ford Mustang 5.0L
(1990) Ford Thunderbird 3.8L/Supercharged
(1991-97) Ford Thunderbird 3.8L, (1991-93) 5.0L
(1990-92) Lincoln Mark VII 5.0L
(1990) Lincoln Town Car 5.0L
***Retrofits***
(1982-91) Ford Mustangs 5.0L (302 CID) All
(1968-79) Ford Mustangs 5.0L (302 CID) w/ AT
(1969-73) Ford Mustangs 5.8L (351 CID) w/ AT
Electric Fans
94+ Mustang v6
94-96 Cougar
3.8L 88-95 Taurus or
3.8L 88-94 Lincoln Continental
Lincoln Mark 8
Ford Contour and FWD Mercury Cougar dual fans
Dodge Intrepid dual fans
Grand Marquis
Ford Windstar/Mercury Villager
98-00? Mercury Mistique
Nissan Quest minivan and Mercury Villager fan is said to be a perfect fit
"seem to fit based on your level of tolerance to fabricate brackets and such from what I've read. Personally, I have a 2 spd from a 94 Villager." 1BAD6T6
Link to good writeup on changing to Mark 8 Fan
Radiator
Late 5.0 Cougars have nice alum. radiators (these fit the Mark 8 electric fans really good)
Suspension
4 Cylinder front springs
SVO Front end - (better k member, control arms, 73mm calipers)
T-bird front control arms (longer than mustang) widetrack (same as SN-95?)
94-04 A-arms can replace your existing Fox A-Arms. This is probably only done by those with a 79 to 86 chassis, upgrading their brakes, since the K-Member is narrower. The longer A-Arms put your tires out where they should be. Maximum Motorsports talks about the advantages on a Fox here.
Manual steering racks and brake pedals on early Mustangs
Pullies
85 PS Pulley (much larger than 86+), also check mid 80's Thunderbird/Cougars
Any 3g style alt pulley on a 2g
D9ZE-8509-AA WP pulley, 5 1/2" dia., SSP WP Pulley? possibly 85-86 as well, 80's Crown Vic 302
93 Cobra crank pulley
Power adders
Turbos!!!
There's been several thread on DIY junkyard twin turbo setups. If someone's got a link to add lemme know!
courtesy of ocshaman:
BUICK GNX 87 3.8L GAR TB0348
BUICK Monte Carlo/Regal 78-83 3.8L carbed GAR TB0348
BUICK Riviera 80-85 3.8L GAR TB0308
BUICK Grand National/T-Type 86-87 3.8L (Intercooled) GAR TB0348 (TA48)
BUICK Trans Am 89 3.8L GAR TB0348 (water)
BUICK Century 78 3.8L GAR TB0301
BUICK Century 79 3.8L GAR TB0304
BUICK Century 80 3.8L GAR TB0308
CHEVY Sprint 1.0L IHI RHB31
CHEVY Spectrum 85-90 1.5L IHI RHB521
CHRYSLER Conquest, Intercooled 87 2.6L MHI TD05
CHRYSLER Laser (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
CHRYSLER Laser (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER LeBaron 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER New Yorker 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Town & Country 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
CHRYSLER Town & Country 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
CHRYSLER Charger/Shelby 87-90 2.2L GAR TB03 (water)
CHRYSLER Shelby CSX-Daytona/Baron GTC/Shadow ES 89-90 2.2L GAR TB03 VNT (variable nozzle)
DODGE 600 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE 600 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Aries 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Caravan 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Conquest (Intercooled) 87 2.6L MHI TD05
DODGE Daytona 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 88 2.2L MHI TE04H
DODGE Daytona Shelby 84-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Lancer 89 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Lancer 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Omni 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Shadow 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
DODGE Shadow 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
DODGE Spirit 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
EAGLE Talon (Manual) 90-94 2.0L MHI TD05H (45 trim)
EAGLE Talon (Auto) 90-95 2.0L MHI TD04
EAGLE Talon (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)
FORD Mustang GT 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
FORD Mustang GT/T-bird 83-84 GAR (AiR) TB0344
FORD Probe GT 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (auto) GAR (AiR) TB0344 (45 trim oil only)
FORD T-Bird 85-86 2.3L (Manual) GAR (AiR) TB03 60 trim (watercooled)
FORD T-Bird 87-88 (water) IHI RHB52
FORD Fiesta 90+ 1.6L GAR T2
FORD Escort 84-86 IHI RHB5
ISUZU MPR Truck 88-92 IHI RHB6-A
MAZDA 626, MX6 88-92 2.2L IHI RHB52W
MAZDA 323 GTX turbo 88-89 1.6L IHI RHB52W (water)
MERCEDES 300D, SDT, TD 78-84 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL 78-83 3.0L GAR TA0301
MERCEDES 300SDL (Calif.) 86-87 3.0L GAR TB0359
MERCURY Capri 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERCURY Cougar 85-86 2.3L GAR TB0344
MERKUR XR4Ti 85-88 2.3L GAR TB0344
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Auto) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD04
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 90-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Eclipse (Manual) 95-98 2.0L MHI T25 (45 trim)
MITSUBISHI Galant (Auto) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD04
MITSUBISHI Galant (Manual) 88-94 2.2L MHI TD05H
MITSUBISHI Starion (Intercooled) 85-87 2.6L MHI TD05
MITSUBISHI 3000GT VR4 - 2x MHI TD04H
PLYMOUTH Acclaim 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Caravelle 85-87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Conquest, Intercooled 85-89 2.6L MHI TD05
PLYMOUTH Laser (Auto) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD04
PLYMOUTH Laser (Manual) 89-94 2.0L MHI TD05H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 89-92 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 88 2.5L MHI TE04H
PLYMOUTH Sundance 87 2.2L GAR TB0335
PLYMOUTH Voyager 89-90 2.5L MHI TE04H
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 88-90 2.0L GAR T2
PONTIAC Sunbird GT 84-86 1.8L GAR T2
PONTIAC Grand Prix 89-90 3.1L GAR T25 (water)
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 87-88 2.0L GAR TB0356
SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 87 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
SAAB 900 (16V Intercooled) 84-86 2.0L GAR TB0339 (Oilcld)
SAAB 9000 (16V Intercooled) 85-86 2.0L GAR TB0343
SAAB 900 (8V, APC) 82-84 2.0L GAR TB0321
VOLVO 200 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0313
VOLVO 740 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 740 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 760 89-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 760 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 780 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 780 90 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 780 87-89 2.3L MIT TD05
VOLVO 940 91-93 2.3L MIT TD04H
VOLVO 200 Watercooled Upgrade 82-84 2.3L GAR TB0368
VOLVO 740 (Oil Cooled) 83-85 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 740 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VOLVO 760 (Oil Cooled) 83-86 2.3L GAR TB0326
VOLVO 760 (Watercooled) 85-87 2.3L GAR TB0363
VW Passat, 97+ (oil) 1.8L GAR GT15
GAR=Garrett, AiR=AiResearch, MHI=Mitsubishi Heavy industries, MIT=Mitsubishi
This is a list of turbos from a junkyard that you might find for a twin setup. Most people go with turbo coupe to Merkur turbos. Turbostangman uses Gn turbos and used Eclipse turbos. For single turbo setups, check out any diesel truck that you might run into.
GM uses a turbo on their 6.5 L diesel that some guys run
and some guys are getting into Holset turbos from Cummins Diesel. There is also Ford turbo diesel, and anything you could get off a big rig, but that would be getting too big for most people. A turbo JY upgrade is not for the noob, so be sure you've got lots of time, hopefully a couple friends to help and some cash for the stuff you just can't get at the JY.
Interior
****NEW***** (thanks aod109, I read about this in a 5.0 or MMFF mag years ago too)
1998 GT seats drop right into a 1986 LX. Manual seats work, power seats = unknown. U can use the 1998 seat rails or the stock 1986 seat rails. The 1998 seat rails are a tad lower than the 1986 seat rails. These seats are a massive improvement from the buckets that came in my LX. And only cost $40 total (from the Pick-A-Part) for both seats + rail/brackets.
-Lowers driver seating position by .5-.75 inches
-Has hip & side bolsters.
-Firmer seat and back cushion/foam for less "bouncey" feel.
-5 Lbs lighter per seat
-Seat back actually locks in place so that when you stomp on the brakes the seat back doesn't try to push you forward.
Last edited by slo5oh; 01-05-2011 at 12:11 PM.:worship
junkyard horsepower on another site
Junkyard Horsepower SUMMARY! - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Junkyard Horsepower SUMMARY! - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
More Junk yard info
FOX BODY MUSTANG 5 LUG CONVERSION:worship
FOX BODY MUSTANG 5-LUG CONVERSIONTHROUGH THE INSTALLATION OF SN95 FRONT SPINDLESThis article will detail the conversion of my 1990 Mustang GT from 4-lug to 5-lug for the purpose of mounting 17×8 wheels from a 1999 Cobra (this also applies to 1998 Cobra wheels and the 17″ ‘Split 5-Spoke’ style wheel). This conversion was done with cost kept to a minimum. It would have been easy to simply order an M2300-K Cobra Brake Kit from FRPP but I wasn’t ready to drop the $1,600 for the kit. This article details the conversion that retains the front discs and rear drums for budget issues.1987 to 1993 Fox body 5.0 liter Mustangs can be easily upgraded to 5-lugs by simply installing 5-lug axles and drums from a Ranger or Bronco II in the rear and 5-lug brake rotors from a late 80′s Lincoln Mark VII in the front. This conversion will work for most types of wheels. But, if you are planning on installing a Ford OEM wheel such as the 1998 or 1999 Cobra wheel or the 17″ ‘Split 5-Spoke’ wheel then this conversion will not work for you. This is due to the fact that the Mark VII rotor hat is too tall and the dust cap on the rotor extends too far out. This prohibits the center cap of the wheel from being installed.There are two solutions to this problem. The first is to install ½” wheel spacers behind the front wheels to allow more clearance for the dust cap. This also requires that longer wheel studs be installed on the front rotors for safety. The other solution is to replace the front spindle, rotor and caliper assemblies from the Fox Mustang with complete spindle, hub, rotor and caliper assemblies from an SN95 Mustang. Wheel spacers are simply a Band-Aid for this fitment problem, though, and that is why I chose the latter option. The SN95 assemblies are also designed with improved geometry for better steering feel and the caliper assemblies provide improved braking as well. All in all, it is a better setup and is also the basis for any big brake upgrades in the future (i.e. – Baer or Cobra brakes). It is a project of low to moderate difficulty that can be performed in a garage or driveway with basic tools by anyone with the ability to perform a complete brake job.Parts ListRearTo convert the rear end to 5-lugs you need to replace the 4-lug axles and drums with 5-lug units. The axles that are needed will be either off of a Ranger, Bronco II or Aerostar van.From an ’83 to ’92 4 cylinder or 3.0L V6 Ranger/Bronco II with a 7.5″ rear end you will need two driver’s side axles. Only the driver’s side will work as the pumpkin on these rear ends is offset and the axles are different lengths (you need the longer of the two axles). It should measure 29-5/32″.From an Aerostar you will need two of the passenger side axles from an 86 to 97 model.The axles are all the same so they can be mix-matched (i.e. – one driver’s side axle from a Ranger and one passenger side axle from an Aerostar).You can use the brake drums from either side of the above listed vehicles but make sure that they are 9″ drums. The 4.0L Rangers came with an 8.8″ rear end with 10″ drums – these will not work.Prices will vary, of course, but I was able to get the axles and drums from a local “Pull It Yourself” type yard. The axles run about $20 each and the drums will run about $15 each.Be sure to check the axles to make sure they are not bent or worn on the bearing surface and check the drums to ensure that they are smooth or can be turned to no more than the maximum diameter.Miscellaneous items for the rear include new brake shoes, fresh gear oil, RTV gasket maker to seal the differential cover and one additional lug nut for each side.FrontFor the front you will need one each left and right side spindles, hubs, rotors and calipers from either a ’94 or ’95 V6 or V8 Mustang. The assemblies are the same for the V6 and V8 so either will work but it must be from a ’94 or ’95. This is because the spindle was moved out about ¼” – ½” on the ’96 and later Mustangs. This will cause the wheel to stick out too far and possibly cause interference problems with the wheel well lip on the fender.If you are getting the parts from a wrecker in a complete assembly (as I did) then make sure that they include the Banjo Bolt that attaches the flexible brake line to the caliper. This will allow you to connect your existing brake lines to the SN95 caliper since the threads are different and the Fox Banjo Bolt will not thread into the SN95 caliper. Using the SN95 Banjo Bolt is the easiest way to do it rather than connecting the SN95 flexible lines to the Fox hard lines because they are different sizes and will require adapters (and the SN95 uses two different size connectors left and right side). Just use the SN95 Banjo Bolt on your flexible line for ease of installation (they even worked with my stainless steel braided lines). I was able to get the complete assemblies for $125 per side from the wrecker.Miscellaneous parts needed for the front include new brake pads, one additional lug nut for each side, new cotter pins (4), new copper washers for the Banjo Bolts (4) and a 0.330″ tall spacer (or washers totaling 0.330″). The last item is necessary to properly fasten the crown nut on the lower control arm ball joint/spindle connection. I will explain this in more detail in the reassembly section.DisassemblyBegin by loosening all lug nuts prior to raising the vehicle. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jack stands. The jack stands should be positioned so that the suspension components hang free. You will want the rear end to hang down to ease the removal and reinstallation of the differential cover (otherwise the rear sway bar can be a hindrance). You will want the front control arms to hang down free so you can manipulate it with a floor jack during the removal and installation of the spindle(s).RearOnce the vehicle is safely supported on jack stands and all 4 of the wheels have been removed start by removing both brake drums (ensure that the parking brake is off). Drain the rear differential fluid by loosening (not fully removing) all of the cover bolts and pull the lower portion of the cover away to allow the fluid to drain out the bottom. Once empty remove the bolts and remove the cover. With the transmission in neutral rotate the rear differential until you see the small Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt. This bolt runs sideways into the differential. Remove this bolt and then slide out the Pinion Rod (placing the car in Park or in gear will allow you to remove this bolt without the differential rotating). Now you can push the axles inwards allowing you to remove the C-Clip retainers. With the C-Clips removed the axles will slide right out. Be careful not to damage the axles bearings or seals when removing the axles.FrontStart with the front by disconnecting the flexible brake line from the caliper by removing the Banjo Bolt completely from the brake line. Have a cup or rag ready to catch the brake fluid (brake fluid will destroy paint – Be Careful!). Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the spindle and remove the caliper. Remove the dust cap from the rotor to allow access to the bearing retaining nut. Remove the cotter pin on the crown cap and then remove the cap and nut. Pull the rotor off of the spindle with the bearings.Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise the jack just under the control arm so it just starts to compress the spring. Loosen the two bolts that secure the strut to the spindle.On the tie rod end, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the tie rod end from the spindle.On the lower control arm ball joint, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the spindle from the lower control arm (be sure the floor jack has the lower control arm supported to keep the spring from unseating and causing damage or injury!).Now you can remove the two screws holding the spindle onto the strut and remove the spindle completely.Repeat for opposite side.ReassemblyRearSlide the new axles into the housing tubes being careful not to damage the bearings or seals. Push the axles in as far as they will go and seat them with the spider gears in the differential. Replace the C-Clips on the axle ends and push the axles back outwards to lock them into place. Reinstall the Pinion Rod. Apply thread locker to the Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt, reinstall in the carrier and torque to specification (15-30 lbf.ft.). Clean the differential housing cover and remove any silicone sealer residue from both the cover and the housing itself. Apply a ¼” bead of RTV to the cover and reinstall the cover on the housing. Replace all bolts and torque in sequence to specification (25-35 lbf.ft).At this time the rear brake shoes can be replaced to allow time for the silicone to set up before adding new gear oil. Once complete, replace the brake drums and add the required amount of the specified gear oil.FrontBegin the installation of the SN95 spindles by placing the spindle/hub assembly on the ball joint on the lower control arm. Before screwing on the crown nut to secure the spindle you will need a spacer on the ball joint between the spindle and crown nut.The reason for this is that the stud on the ball joint of the Fox cars is longer than the stud on the SN95 cars. So, when you go to tighten the crown nut to specification you will have gone past the cotter hole and the crowns on the crown nut will not line up with the cotter hole for the cotter pin. FRPP addresses this problem in their M2300-K Cobra Brake Kit with a spacer that they provide to keep the crown nut in line with the cotter hole.Unfortunately FRPP does not sell this spacer separately (it is only available in the kit) and nobody else to my knowledge sells it either. But, I was able to obtain the height of this spacer from FRPP whom suggested I have my own manufactured. The height needed from the spacer is 0.330″ and the center hole diameter should be 5/8″ to fit on the stud. The thickness of the spacer should simply be sufficient to sustain the rigors of the suspension.Another solution (the route I chose) is to simply obtain some 5/8″ hardened washers and stack them up to achieve the necessary height. I ended up needing 3 fairly thick washers per side.Once you have your spacer (or washers) in place you can screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.Now fit the tie rod end onto the spindle and screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.At this point the strut can be attached to the spindle with the two mounting bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts to specification (140-200 lbf.ft.). Some manipulation will most likely be necessary with the floor jack at this point to attach the strut mounting bolts.Now you can torque down the tie rod end crown nut to specification (35-47 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.Finally torque down the lower ball joint crown nut to specification (110-150 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.With the spindle now installed, place the rotor on the hub and mount the loaded caliper on the spindle. Attach the caliper with the two mounting bolts and torque to specification (70-95 lbf.ft.).Place a new copper washer on the SN95 Banjo Bolt and insert the Banjo Bolt into the flexible brake line. Place another new copper washer on the other end of the bolt (so there is now a new washer on either side of the brake line) and screw the Banjo Bolt into the caliper. Be sure to route the flexible line so that it will not make contact with the front tire or wheel while driving and turning and then torque the Banjo Bolt to specification (30-40 lbf.ft.).Repeat procedure for opposite side.Once both sides are complete bleed the brake system (consult your repair manual for proper bleeding procedure).Once the brakes have been bled the new wheels can be mounted and the lug nuts snugged up. The car can then be safely lowered from the jack stands and, with the car on the ground, the lug nuts can be torqued to specification (85-105 lbf.ft.).Finishing UpAlignmentWith the car on the ground and the steering wheel centered you will notice that both of the front wheels are pointing inward (toe-in). This is due to the different mounting points of the SN95 spindles. The car cannot be driven like this safely and will surely destroy your tires. The toe needs to be adjusted out so the car can at least be driven to have the front end re-aligned (or have the car towed). Consult your repair manual for the proper procedure for adjusting the toe (basically loosen the tie rod end lock nut and rotate the adjustment until the wheel(s) point straight forward and then tighten the lock nut).ClearanceWith the toe adjusted check clearances before driving the car.Check the clearance of the tires to the fenders. If they are going to rub then the fenders will have to be rolled to allow the proper clearance.Check the clearance of the wheel to the lower control arm at full lock of the steering wheel. Larger wheels on an ’87 to ’90 Mustang will most likely rub at this point. This can be solved by installing steering rack limiters to decrease the turning radius of the vehicle (Ford part number N804842-S). ’91 to ’93 Mustangs have a decreased turn radius from the factory so this may not be a problem.Finally check the clearance of the brake lines to ensure that they will not rub the tires or wheels under any condition.ImpressionsWith the installation of the SN95 spindles and brakes on the front of the car I have noticed improved handling and braking. The steering feels more precise and responsive especially on turn-in.One huge bonus is that the SN95 spindles seem to have completely cured the excessive bump-steer that I was experiencing. The car no longer wanders around the road following grooves or bumps. It just feels solid. This may not be the cure for everyone’s bump-steer but it helped in my case.The improved design of the SN95 calipers provide more clamping force and less brake fade. A huge improvement over the stock Fox brakes.Another positive aside from this conversion is that you now have the basis for the addition of larger Cobra brakes or an aftermarket big brake kit such as Baer later on down the road. These kits require SN95 style spindle and hub assemblies to work on Fox body cars.Total outlay for parts (including brake pads and miscellaneous parts) and labor (for turning the rotors/drums and alignment) was just about $475 (not including new wheels). All in all it was a worthwhile conversion that I would certainly recommend to anyone considering converting to 5-lug on a budget. It will be more costly than simply using Mark VII rotors but not near as much as the FRPP M2300-K kit and will still give you improved braking and handling.* Disclaimer: I am not a certified mechanic and in no way imply that I am. This article is only published to give the reader an idea of the scope of the task listed therein and should in no way be construed as instructions for completing this task. Consult a qualified mechanic before attempting this task. Torque values and technical references listed in this article are for reference only and are believed to be correct at the time of this writing. Always verify current torque specifications prior to final tightening. Use this article and the information contained herein at your own risk.
– THROUGH THE INSTALLATION OF SN95 FRONT SPINDLES
This article will detail the conversion of my 1990 Mustang GT from 4-lug to 5-lug for the purpose of mounting 17×8 wheels from a 1999 Cobra (this also applies to 1998 Cobra wheels and the 17″ ‘Split 5-Spoke’ style wheel). This conversion was done with cost kept to a minimum. It would have been easy to simply order an M2300-K Cobra Brake Kit from FRPP but I wasn’t ready to drop the $1,600 for the kit. This article details the conversion that retains the front discs and rear drums for budget issues.
1987 to 1993 Fox body 5.0 liter Mustangs can be easily upgraded to 5-lugs by simply installing 5-lug axles and drums from a Ranger or Bronco II in the rear and 5-lug brake rotors from a late 80′s Lincoln Mark VII in the front. This conversion will work for most types of wheels. But, if you are planning on installing a Ford OEM wheel such as the 1998 or 1999 Cobra wheel or the 17″ ‘Split 5-Spoke’ wheel then this conversion will not work for you. This is due to the fact that the Mark VII rotor hat is too tall and the dust cap on the rotor extends too far out. This prohibits the center cap of the wheel from being installed.
There are two solutions to this problem. The first is to install ½” wheel spacers behind the front wheels to allow more clearance for the dust cap. This also requires that longer wheel studs be installed on the front rotors for safety. The other solution is to replace the front spindle, rotor and caliper assemblies from the Fox Mustang with complete spindle, hub, rotor and caliper assemblies from an SN95 Mustang. Wheel spacers are simply a Band-Aid for this fitment problem, though, and that is why I chose the latter option. The SN95 assemblies are also designed with improved geometry for better steering feel and the caliper assemblies provide improved braking as well. All in all, it is a better setup and is also the basis for any big brake upgrades in the future (i.e. – Baer or Cobra brakes). It is a project of low to moderate difficulty that can be performed in a garage or driveway with basic tools by anyone with the ability to perform a complete brake job.
Parts List
REAR
To convert the rear end to 5-lugs you need to replace the 4-lug axles and drums with 5-lug units. The axles that are needed will be either off of a Ranger, Bronco II or Aerostar van.
From an ’83 to ’92 4 cylinder or 3.0L V6 Ranger/Bronco II with a 7.5″ rear end you will need two driver’s side axles. Only the driver’s side will work as the pumpkin on these rear ends is offset and the axles are different lengths (you need the longer of the two axles). It should measure 29-5/32″.
From an Aerostar you will need two of the passenger side axles from an 86 to 97 model.
The axles are all the same so they can be mix-matched (i.e. – one driver’s side axle from a Ranger and one passenger side axle from an Aerostar).
You can use the brake drums from either side of the above listed vehicles but make sure that they are 9″ drums. The 4.0L Rangers came with an 8.8″ rear end with 10″ drums – these will not work.
Prices will vary, of course, but I was able to get the axles and drums from a local “Pull It Yourself” type yard. The axles run about $20 each and the drums will run about $15 each.
Be sure to check the axles to make sure they are not bent or worn on the bearing surface and check the drums to ensure that they are smooth or can be turned to no more than the maximum diameter.
Miscellaneous items for the rear include new brake shoes, fresh gear oil, RTV gasket maker to seal the differential cover and one additional lug nut for each side.
FRONT
For the front you will need one each left and right side spindles, hubs, rotors and calipers from either a ’94 or ’95 V6 or V8 Mustang. The assemblies are the same for the V6 and V8 so either will work but it must be from a ’94 or ’95. This is because the spindle was moved out about ¼” – ½” on the ’96 and later Mustangs. This will cause the wheel to stick out too far and possibly cause interference problems with the wheel well lip on the fender.
If you are getting the parts from a wrecker in a complete assembly (as I did) then make sure that they include the Banjo Bolt that attaches the flexible brake line to the caliper. This will allow you to connect your existing brake lines to the SN95 caliper since the threads are different and the Fox Banjo Bolt will not thread into the SN95 caliper. Using the SN95 Banjo Bolt is the easiest way to do it rather than connecting the SN95 flexible lines to the Fox hard lines because they are different sizes and will require adapters (and the SN95 uses two different size connectors left and right side). Just use the SN95 Banjo Bolt on your flexible line for ease of installation (they even worked with my stainless steel braided lines). I was able to get the complete assemblies for $125 per side from the wrecker.
Miscellaneous parts needed for the front include new brake pads, one additional lug nut for each side, new cotter pins (4), new copper washers for the Banjo Bolts (4) and a 0.330″ tall spacer (or washers totaling 0.330″). The last item is necessary to properly fasten the crown nut on the lower control arm ball joint/spindle connection. I will explain this in more detail in the reassembly section.
Disassembly
Begin by loosening all lug nuts prior to raising the vehicle. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jack stands. The jack stands should be positioned so that the suspension components hang free. You will want the rear end to hang down to ease the removal and reinstallation of the differential cover (otherwise the rear sway bar can be a hindrance). You will want the front control arms to hang down free so you can manipulate it with a floor jack during the removal and installation of the spindle(s).
REAR
Once the vehicle is safely supported on jack stands and all 4 of the wheels have been removed start by removing both brake drums (ensure that the parking brake is off). Drain the rear differential fluid by loosening (not fully removing) all of the cover bolts and pull the lower portion of the cover away to allow the fluid to drain out the bottom. Once empty remove the bolts and remove the cover. With the transmission in neutral rotate the rear differential until you see the small Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt. This bolt runs sideways into the differential. Remove this bolt and then slide out the Pinion Rod (placing the car in Park or in gear will allow you to remove this bolt without the differential rotating). Now you can push the axles inwards allowing you to remove the C-Clip retainers. With the C-Clips removed the axles will slide right out. Be careful not to damage the axles bearings or seals when removing the axles.
FRONT
Start with the front by disconnecting the flexible brake line from the caliper by removing the Banjo Bolt completely from the brake line. Have a cup or rag ready to catch the brake fluid (brake fluid will destroy paint – Be Careful!). Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the spindle and remove the caliper. Remove the dust cap from the rotor to allow access to the bearing retaining nut. Remove the cotter pin on the crown cap and then remove the cap and nut. Pull the rotor off of the spindle with the bearings.
Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise the jack just under the control arm so it just starts to compress the spring. Loosen the two bolts that secure the strut to the spindle.
On the tie rod end, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the tie rod end from the spindle.
On the lower control arm ball joint, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the spindle from the lower control arm (be sure the floor jack has the lower control arm supported to keep the spring from unseating and causing damage or injury!).
Now you can remove the two screws holding the spindle onto the strut and remove the spindle completely.
Repeat for opposite side.
Reassembly
REAR
Slide the new axles into the housing tubes being careful not to damage the bearings or seals. Push the axles in as far as they will go and seat them with the spider gears in the differential. Replace the C-Clips on the axle ends and push the axles back outwards to lock them into place. Reinstall the Pinion Rod. Apply thread locker to the Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt, reinstall in the carrier and torque to specification (15-30 lbf.ft.). Clean the differential housing cover and remove any silicone sealer residue from both the cover and the housing itself. Apply a ¼” bead of RTV to the cover and reinstall the cover on the housing. Replace all bolts and torque in sequence to specification (25-35 lbf.ft).
At this time the rear brake shoes can be replaced to allow time for the silicone to set up before adding new gear oil. Once complete, replace the brake drums and add the required amount of the specified gear oil.
FRONT
Begin the installation of the SN95 spindles by placing the spindle/hub assembly on the ball joint on the lower control arm. Before screwing on the crown nut to secure the spindle you will need a spacer on the ball joint between the spindle and crown nut.
The reason for this is that the stud on the ball joint of the Fox cars is longer than the stud on the SN95 cars. So, when you go to tighten the crown nut to specification you will have gone past the cotter hole and the crowns on the crown nut will not line up with the cotter hole for the cotter pin. FRPP addresses this problem in their M2300-K Cobra Brake Kit with a spacer that they provide to keep the crown nut in line with the cotter hole.
Unfortunately FRPP does not sell this spacer separately (it is only available in the kit) and nobody else to my knowledge sells it either. But, I was able to obtain the height of this spacer from FRPP whom suggested I have my own manufactured. The height needed from the spacer is 0.330″ and the center hole diameter should be 5/8″ to fit on the stud. The thickness of the spacer should simply be sufficient to sustain the rigors of the suspension.
Another solution (the route I chose) is to simply obtain some 5/8″ hardened washers and stack them up to achieve the necessary height. I ended up needing 3 fairly thick washers per side.
Once you have your spacer (or washers) in place you can screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.
Now fit the tie rod end onto the spindle and screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.
At this point the strut can be attached to the spindle with the two mounting bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts to specification (140-200 lbf.ft.). Some manipulation will most likely be necessary with the floor jack at this point to attach the strut mounting bolts.
Now you can torque down the tie rod end crown nut to specification (35-47 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.
Finally torque down the lower ball joint crown nut to specification (110-150 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.
With the spindle now installed, place the rotor on the hub and mount the loaded caliper on the spindle. Attach the caliper with the two mounting bolts and torque to specification (70-95 lbf.ft.).
Place a new copper washer on the SN95 Banjo Bolt and insert the Banjo Bolt into the flexible brake line. Place another new copper washer on the other end of the bolt (so there is now a new washer on either side of the brake line) and screw the Banjo Bolt into the caliper. Be sure to route the flexible line so that it will not make contact with the front tire or wheel while driving and turning and then torque the Banjo Bolt to specification (30-40 lbf.ft.).
Repeat procedure for opposite side.
Once both sides are complete bleed the brake system (consult your repair manual for proper bleeding procedure).
Once the brakes have been bled the new wheels can be mounted and the lug nuts snugged up. The car can then be safely lowered from the jack stands and, with the car on the ground, the lug nuts can be torqued to specification (85-105 lbf.ft.).
Finishing Up
ALIGNMENT
With the car on the ground and the steering wheel centered you will notice that both of the front wheels are pointing inward (toe-in). This is due to the different mounting points of the SN95 spindles. The car cannot be driven like this safely and will surely destroy your tires. The toe needs to be adjusted out so the car can at least be driven to have the front end re-aligned (or have the car towed). Consult your repair manual for the proper procedure for adjusting the toe (basically loosen the tie rod end lock nut and rotate the adjustment until the wheel(s) point straight forward and then tighten the lock nut).
CLEARANCE
With the toe adjusted check clearances before driving the car.
Check the clearance of the tires to the fenders. If they are going to rub then the fenders will have to be rolled to allow the proper clearance.
Check the clearance of the wheel to the lower control arm at full lock of the steering wheel. Larger wheels on an ’87 to ’90 Mustang will most likely rub at this point. This can be solved by installing steering rack limiters to decrease the turning radius of the vehicle (Ford part number N804842-S). ’91 to ’93 Mustangs have a decreased turn radius from the factory so this may not be a problem.
Finally check the clearance of the brake lines to ensure that they will not rub the tires or wheels under any condition.
Impressions
With the installation of the SN95 spindles and brakes on the front of the car I have noticed improved handling and braking. The steering feels more precise and responsive especially on turn-in.
One huge bonus is that the SN95 spindles seem to have completely cured the excessive bump-steer that I was experiencing. The car no longer wanders around the road following grooves or bumps. It just feels solid. This may not be the cure for everyone’s bump-steer but it helped in my case.
The improved design of the SN95 calipers provide more clamping force and less brake fade. A huge improvement over the stock Fox brakes.
Another positive aside from this conversion is that you now have the basis for the addition of larger Cobra brakes or an aftermarket big brake kit such as Baer later on down the road. These kits require SN95 style spindle and hub assemblies to work on Fox body cars.
Total outlay for parts (including brake pads and miscellaneous parts) and labor (for turning the rotors/drums and alignment) was just about $475 (not including new wheels). All in all it was a worthwhile conversion that I would certainly recommend to anyone considering converting to 5-lug on a budget. It will be more costly than simply using Mark VII rotors but not near as much as the FRPP M2300-K kit and will still give you improved braking and handling.
* Disclaimer: I am not a certified mechanic and in no way imply that I am. This article is only published to give the reader an idea of the scope of the task listed therein and should in no way be construed as instructions for completing this task. Consult a qualified mechanic before attempting this task. Torque values and technical references listed in this article are for reference only and are believed to be correct at the time of this writing. Always verify current torque specifications prior to final tightening. Use this article and the information contained herein at your own risk.:nono::didnotdoit:
FOX BODY MUSTANG 5 LUG CONVERSION:worship
FOX BODY MUSTANG 5-LUG CONVERSIONTHROUGH THE INSTALLATION OF SN95 FRONT SPINDLESThis article will detail the conversion of my 1990 Mustang GT from 4-lug to 5-lug for the purpose of mounting 17×8 wheels from a 1999 Cobra (this also applies to 1998 Cobra wheels and the 17″ ‘Split 5-Spoke’ style wheel). This conversion was done with cost kept to a minimum. It would have been easy to simply order an M2300-K Cobra Brake Kit from FRPP but I wasn’t ready to drop the $1,600 for the kit. This article details the conversion that retains the front discs and rear drums for budget issues.1987 to 1993 Fox body 5.0 liter Mustangs can be easily upgraded to 5-lugs by simply installing 5-lug axles and drums from a Ranger or Bronco II in the rear and 5-lug brake rotors from a late 80′s Lincoln Mark VII in the front. This conversion will work for most types of wheels. But, if you are planning on installing a Ford OEM wheel such as the 1998 or 1999 Cobra wheel or the 17″ ‘Split 5-Spoke’ wheel then this conversion will not work for you. This is due to the fact that the Mark VII rotor hat is too tall and the dust cap on the rotor extends too far out. This prohibits the center cap of the wheel from being installed.There are two solutions to this problem. The first is to install ½” wheel spacers behind the front wheels to allow more clearance for the dust cap. This also requires that longer wheel studs be installed on the front rotors for safety. The other solution is to replace the front spindle, rotor and caliper assemblies from the Fox Mustang with complete spindle, hub, rotor and caliper assemblies from an SN95 Mustang. Wheel spacers are simply a Band-Aid for this fitment problem, though, and that is why I chose the latter option. The SN95 assemblies are also designed with improved geometry for better steering feel and the caliper assemblies provide improved braking as well. All in all, it is a better setup and is also the basis for any big brake upgrades in the future (i.e. – Baer or Cobra brakes). It is a project of low to moderate difficulty that can be performed in a garage or driveway with basic tools by anyone with the ability to perform a complete brake job.Parts ListRearTo convert the rear end to 5-lugs you need to replace the 4-lug axles and drums with 5-lug units. The axles that are needed will be either off of a Ranger, Bronco II or Aerostar van.From an ’83 to ’92 4 cylinder or 3.0L V6 Ranger/Bronco II with a 7.5″ rear end you will need two driver’s side axles. Only the driver’s side will work as the pumpkin on these rear ends is offset and the axles are different lengths (you need the longer of the two axles). It should measure 29-5/32″.From an Aerostar you will need two of the passenger side axles from an 86 to 97 model.The axles are all the same so they can be mix-matched (i.e. – one driver’s side axle from a Ranger and one passenger side axle from an Aerostar).You can use the brake drums from either side of the above listed vehicles but make sure that they are 9″ drums. The 4.0L Rangers came with an 8.8″ rear end with 10″ drums – these will not work.Prices will vary, of course, but I was able to get the axles and drums from a local “Pull It Yourself” type yard. The axles run about $20 each and the drums will run about $15 each.Be sure to check the axles to make sure they are not bent or worn on the bearing surface and check the drums to ensure that they are smooth or can be turned to no more than the maximum diameter.Miscellaneous items for the rear include new brake shoes, fresh gear oil, RTV gasket maker to seal the differential cover and one additional lug nut for each side.FrontFor the front you will need one each left and right side spindles, hubs, rotors and calipers from either a ’94 or ’95 V6 or V8 Mustang. The assemblies are the same for the V6 and V8 so either will work but it must be from a ’94 or ’95. This is because the spindle was moved out about ¼” – ½” on the ’96 and later Mustangs. This will cause the wheel to stick out too far and possibly cause interference problems with the wheel well lip on the fender.If you are getting the parts from a wrecker in a complete assembly (as I did) then make sure that they include the Banjo Bolt that attaches the flexible brake line to the caliper. This will allow you to connect your existing brake lines to the SN95 caliper since the threads are different and the Fox Banjo Bolt will not thread into the SN95 caliper. Using the SN95 Banjo Bolt is the easiest way to do it rather than connecting the SN95 flexible lines to the Fox hard lines because they are different sizes and will require adapters (and the SN95 uses two different size connectors left and right side). Just use the SN95 Banjo Bolt on your flexible line for ease of installation (they even worked with my stainless steel braided lines). I was able to get the complete assemblies for $125 per side from the wrecker.Miscellaneous parts needed for the front include new brake pads, one additional lug nut for each side, new cotter pins (4), new copper washers for the Banjo Bolts (4) and a 0.330″ tall spacer (or washers totaling 0.330″). The last item is necessary to properly fasten the crown nut on the lower control arm ball joint/spindle connection. I will explain this in more detail in the reassembly section.DisassemblyBegin by loosening all lug nuts prior to raising the vehicle. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jack stands. The jack stands should be positioned so that the suspension components hang free. You will want the rear end to hang down to ease the removal and reinstallation of the differential cover (otherwise the rear sway bar can be a hindrance). You will want the front control arms to hang down free so you can manipulate it with a floor jack during the removal and installation of the spindle(s).RearOnce the vehicle is safely supported on jack stands and all 4 of the wheels have been removed start by removing both brake drums (ensure that the parking brake is off). Drain the rear differential fluid by loosening (not fully removing) all of the cover bolts and pull the lower portion of the cover away to allow the fluid to drain out the bottom. Once empty remove the bolts and remove the cover. With the transmission in neutral rotate the rear differential until you see the small Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt. This bolt runs sideways into the differential. Remove this bolt and then slide out the Pinion Rod (placing the car in Park or in gear will allow you to remove this bolt without the differential rotating). Now you can push the axles inwards allowing you to remove the C-Clip retainers. With the C-Clips removed the axles will slide right out. Be careful not to damage the axles bearings or seals when removing the axles.FrontStart with the front by disconnecting the flexible brake line from the caliper by removing the Banjo Bolt completely from the brake line. Have a cup or rag ready to catch the brake fluid (brake fluid will destroy paint – Be Careful!). Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the spindle and remove the caliper. Remove the dust cap from the rotor to allow access to the bearing retaining nut. Remove the cotter pin on the crown cap and then remove the cap and nut. Pull the rotor off of the spindle with the bearings.Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise the jack just under the control arm so it just starts to compress the spring. Loosen the two bolts that secure the strut to the spindle.On the tie rod end, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the tie rod end from the spindle.On the lower control arm ball joint, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the spindle from the lower control arm (be sure the floor jack has the lower control arm supported to keep the spring from unseating and causing damage or injury!).Now you can remove the two screws holding the spindle onto the strut and remove the spindle completely.Repeat for opposite side.ReassemblyRearSlide the new axles into the housing tubes being careful not to damage the bearings or seals. Push the axles in as far as they will go and seat them with the spider gears in the differential. Replace the C-Clips on the axle ends and push the axles back outwards to lock them into place. Reinstall the Pinion Rod. Apply thread locker to the Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt, reinstall in the carrier and torque to specification (15-30 lbf.ft.). Clean the differential housing cover and remove any silicone sealer residue from both the cover and the housing itself. Apply a ¼” bead of RTV to the cover and reinstall the cover on the housing. Replace all bolts and torque in sequence to specification (25-35 lbf.ft).At this time the rear brake shoes can be replaced to allow time for the silicone to set up before adding new gear oil. Once complete, replace the brake drums and add the required amount of the specified gear oil.FrontBegin the installation of the SN95 spindles by placing the spindle/hub assembly on the ball joint on the lower control arm. Before screwing on the crown nut to secure the spindle you will need a spacer on the ball joint between the spindle and crown nut.The reason for this is that the stud on the ball joint of the Fox cars is longer than the stud on the SN95 cars. So, when you go to tighten the crown nut to specification you will have gone past the cotter hole and the crowns on the crown nut will not line up with the cotter hole for the cotter pin. FRPP addresses this problem in their M2300-K Cobra Brake Kit with a spacer that they provide to keep the crown nut in line with the cotter hole.Unfortunately FRPP does not sell this spacer separately (it is only available in the kit) and nobody else to my knowledge sells it either. But, I was able to obtain the height of this spacer from FRPP whom suggested I have my own manufactured. The height needed from the spacer is 0.330″ and the center hole diameter should be 5/8″ to fit on the stud. The thickness of the spacer should simply be sufficient to sustain the rigors of the suspension.Another solution (the route I chose) is to simply obtain some 5/8″ hardened washers and stack them up to achieve the necessary height. I ended up needing 3 fairly thick washers per side.Once you have your spacer (or washers) in place you can screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.Now fit the tie rod end onto the spindle and screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.At this point the strut can be attached to the spindle with the two mounting bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts to specification (140-200 lbf.ft.). Some manipulation will most likely be necessary with the floor jack at this point to attach the strut mounting bolts.Now you can torque down the tie rod end crown nut to specification (35-47 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.Finally torque down the lower ball joint crown nut to specification (110-150 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.With the spindle now installed, place the rotor on the hub and mount the loaded caliper on the spindle. Attach the caliper with the two mounting bolts and torque to specification (70-95 lbf.ft.).Place a new copper washer on the SN95 Banjo Bolt and insert the Banjo Bolt into the flexible brake line. Place another new copper washer on the other end of the bolt (so there is now a new washer on either side of the brake line) and screw the Banjo Bolt into the caliper. Be sure to route the flexible line so that it will not make contact with the front tire or wheel while driving and turning and then torque the Banjo Bolt to specification (30-40 lbf.ft.).Repeat procedure for opposite side.Once both sides are complete bleed the brake system (consult your repair manual for proper bleeding procedure).Once the brakes have been bled the new wheels can be mounted and the lug nuts snugged up. The car can then be safely lowered from the jack stands and, with the car on the ground, the lug nuts can be torqued to specification (85-105 lbf.ft.).Finishing UpAlignmentWith the car on the ground and the steering wheel centered you will notice that both of the front wheels are pointing inward (toe-in). This is due to the different mounting points of the SN95 spindles. The car cannot be driven like this safely and will surely destroy your tires. The toe needs to be adjusted out so the car can at least be driven to have the front end re-aligned (or have the car towed). Consult your repair manual for the proper procedure for adjusting the toe (basically loosen the tie rod end lock nut and rotate the adjustment until the wheel(s) point straight forward and then tighten the lock nut).ClearanceWith the toe adjusted check clearances before driving the car.Check the clearance of the tires to the fenders. If they are going to rub then the fenders will have to be rolled to allow the proper clearance.Check the clearance of the wheel to the lower control arm at full lock of the steering wheel. Larger wheels on an ’87 to ’90 Mustang will most likely rub at this point. This can be solved by installing steering rack limiters to decrease the turning radius of the vehicle (Ford part number N804842-S). ’91 to ’93 Mustangs have a decreased turn radius from the factory so this may not be a problem.Finally check the clearance of the brake lines to ensure that they will not rub the tires or wheels under any condition.ImpressionsWith the installation of the SN95 spindles and brakes on the front of the car I have noticed improved handling and braking. The steering feels more precise and responsive especially on turn-in.One huge bonus is that the SN95 spindles seem to have completely cured the excessive bump-steer that I was experiencing. The car no longer wanders around the road following grooves or bumps. It just feels solid. This may not be the cure for everyone’s bump-steer but it helped in my case.The improved design of the SN95 calipers provide more clamping force and less brake fade. A huge improvement over the stock Fox brakes.Another positive aside from this conversion is that you now have the basis for the addition of larger Cobra brakes or an aftermarket big brake kit such as Baer later on down the road. These kits require SN95 style spindle and hub assemblies to work on Fox body cars.Total outlay for parts (including brake pads and miscellaneous parts) and labor (for turning the rotors/drums and alignment) was just about $475 (not including new wheels). All in all it was a worthwhile conversion that I would certainly recommend to anyone considering converting to 5-lug on a budget. It will be more costly than simply using Mark VII rotors but not near as much as the FRPP M2300-K kit and will still give you improved braking and handling.* Disclaimer: I am not a certified mechanic and in no way imply that I am. This article is only published to give the reader an idea of the scope of the task listed therein and should in no way be construed as instructions for completing this task. Consult a qualified mechanic before attempting this task. Torque values and technical references listed in this article are for reference only and are believed to be correct at the time of this writing. Always verify current torque specifications prior to final tightening. Use this article and the information contained herein at your own risk.
– THROUGH THE INSTALLATION OF SN95 FRONT SPINDLES
This article will detail the conversion of my 1990 Mustang GT from 4-lug to 5-lug for the purpose of mounting 17×8 wheels from a 1999 Cobra (this also applies to 1998 Cobra wheels and the 17″ ‘Split 5-Spoke’ style wheel). This conversion was done with cost kept to a minimum. It would have been easy to simply order an M2300-K Cobra Brake Kit from FRPP but I wasn’t ready to drop the $1,600 for the kit. This article details the conversion that retains the front discs and rear drums for budget issues.
1987 to 1993 Fox body 5.0 liter Mustangs can be easily upgraded to 5-lugs by simply installing 5-lug axles and drums from a Ranger or Bronco II in the rear and 5-lug brake rotors from a late 80′s Lincoln Mark VII in the front. This conversion will work for most types of wheels. But, if you are planning on installing a Ford OEM wheel such as the 1998 or 1999 Cobra wheel or the 17″ ‘Split 5-Spoke’ wheel then this conversion will not work for you. This is due to the fact that the Mark VII rotor hat is too tall and the dust cap on the rotor extends too far out. This prohibits the center cap of the wheel from being installed.
There are two solutions to this problem. The first is to install ½” wheel spacers behind the front wheels to allow more clearance for the dust cap. This also requires that longer wheel studs be installed on the front rotors for safety. The other solution is to replace the front spindle, rotor and caliper assemblies from the Fox Mustang with complete spindle, hub, rotor and caliper assemblies from an SN95 Mustang. Wheel spacers are simply a Band-Aid for this fitment problem, though, and that is why I chose the latter option. The SN95 assemblies are also designed with improved geometry for better steering feel and the caliper assemblies provide improved braking as well. All in all, it is a better setup and is also the basis for any big brake upgrades in the future (i.e. – Baer or Cobra brakes). It is a project of low to moderate difficulty that can be performed in a garage or driveway with basic tools by anyone with the ability to perform a complete brake job.
Parts List
REAR
To convert the rear end to 5-lugs you need to replace the 4-lug axles and drums with 5-lug units. The axles that are needed will be either off of a Ranger, Bronco II or Aerostar van.
From an ’83 to ’92 4 cylinder or 3.0L V6 Ranger/Bronco II with a 7.5″ rear end you will need two driver’s side axles. Only the driver’s side will work as the pumpkin on these rear ends is offset and the axles are different lengths (you need the longer of the two axles). It should measure 29-5/32″.
From an Aerostar you will need two of the passenger side axles from an 86 to 97 model.
The axles are all the same so they can be mix-matched (i.e. – one driver’s side axle from a Ranger and one passenger side axle from an Aerostar).
You can use the brake drums from either side of the above listed vehicles but make sure that they are 9″ drums. The 4.0L Rangers came with an 8.8″ rear end with 10″ drums – these will not work.
Prices will vary, of course, but I was able to get the axles and drums from a local “Pull It Yourself” type yard. The axles run about $20 each and the drums will run about $15 each.
Be sure to check the axles to make sure they are not bent or worn on the bearing surface and check the drums to ensure that they are smooth or can be turned to no more than the maximum diameter.
Miscellaneous items for the rear include new brake shoes, fresh gear oil, RTV gasket maker to seal the differential cover and one additional lug nut for each side.
FRONT
For the front you will need one each left and right side spindles, hubs, rotors and calipers from either a ’94 or ’95 V6 or V8 Mustang. The assemblies are the same for the V6 and V8 so either will work but it must be from a ’94 or ’95. This is because the spindle was moved out about ¼” – ½” on the ’96 and later Mustangs. This will cause the wheel to stick out too far and possibly cause interference problems with the wheel well lip on the fender.
If you are getting the parts from a wrecker in a complete assembly (as I did) then make sure that they include the Banjo Bolt that attaches the flexible brake line to the caliper. This will allow you to connect your existing brake lines to the SN95 caliper since the threads are different and the Fox Banjo Bolt will not thread into the SN95 caliper. Using the SN95 Banjo Bolt is the easiest way to do it rather than connecting the SN95 flexible lines to the Fox hard lines because they are different sizes and will require adapters (and the SN95 uses two different size connectors left and right side). Just use the SN95 Banjo Bolt on your flexible line for ease of installation (they even worked with my stainless steel braided lines). I was able to get the complete assemblies for $125 per side from the wrecker.
Miscellaneous parts needed for the front include new brake pads, one additional lug nut for each side, new cotter pins (4), new copper washers for the Banjo Bolts (4) and a 0.330″ tall spacer (or washers totaling 0.330″). The last item is necessary to properly fasten the crown nut on the lower control arm ball joint/spindle connection. I will explain this in more detail in the reassembly section.
Disassembly
Begin by loosening all lug nuts prior to raising the vehicle. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jack stands. The jack stands should be positioned so that the suspension components hang free. You will want the rear end to hang down to ease the removal and reinstallation of the differential cover (otherwise the rear sway bar can be a hindrance). You will want the front control arms to hang down free so you can manipulate it with a floor jack during the removal and installation of the spindle(s).
REAR
Once the vehicle is safely supported on jack stands and all 4 of the wheels have been removed start by removing both brake drums (ensure that the parking brake is off). Drain the rear differential fluid by loosening (not fully removing) all of the cover bolts and pull the lower portion of the cover away to allow the fluid to drain out the bottom. Once empty remove the bolts and remove the cover. With the transmission in neutral rotate the rear differential until you see the small Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt. This bolt runs sideways into the differential. Remove this bolt and then slide out the Pinion Rod (placing the car in Park or in gear will allow you to remove this bolt without the differential rotating). Now you can push the axles inwards allowing you to remove the C-Clip retainers. With the C-Clips removed the axles will slide right out. Be careful not to damage the axles bearings or seals when removing the axles.
FRONT
Start with the front by disconnecting the flexible brake line from the caliper by removing the Banjo Bolt completely from the brake line. Have a cup or rag ready to catch the brake fluid (brake fluid will destroy paint – Be Careful!). Remove the two bolts holding the caliper to the spindle and remove the caliper. Remove the dust cap from the rotor to allow access to the bearing retaining nut. Remove the cotter pin on the crown cap and then remove the cap and nut. Pull the rotor off of the spindle with the bearings.
Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise the jack just under the control arm so it just starts to compress the spring. Loosen the two bolts that secure the strut to the spindle.
On the tie rod end, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the tie rod end from the spindle.
On the lower control arm ball joint, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and separate the spindle from the lower control arm (be sure the floor jack has the lower control arm supported to keep the spring from unseating and causing damage or injury!).
Now you can remove the two screws holding the spindle onto the strut and remove the spindle completely.
Repeat for opposite side.
Reassembly
REAR
Slide the new axles into the housing tubes being careful not to damage the bearings or seals. Push the axles in as far as they will go and seat them with the spider gears in the differential. Replace the C-Clips on the axle ends and push the axles back outwards to lock them into place. Reinstall the Pinion Rod. Apply thread locker to the Pinion Rod Retaining Bolt, reinstall in the carrier and torque to specification (15-30 lbf.ft.). Clean the differential housing cover and remove any silicone sealer residue from both the cover and the housing itself. Apply a ¼” bead of RTV to the cover and reinstall the cover on the housing. Replace all bolts and torque in sequence to specification (25-35 lbf.ft).
At this time the rear brake shoes can be replaced to allow time for the silicone to set up before adding new gear oil. Once complete, replace the brake drums and add the required amount of the specified gear oil.
FRONT
Begin the installation of the SN95 spindles by placing the spindle/hub assembly on the ball joint on the lower control arm. Before screwing on the crown nut to secure the spindle you will need a spacer on the ball joint between the spindle and crown nut.
The reason for this is that the stud on the ball joint of the Fox cars is longer than the stud on the SN95 cars. So, when you go to tighten the crown nut to specification you will have gone past the cotter hole and the crowns on the crown nut will not line up with the cotter hole for the cotter pin. FRPP addresses this problem in their M2300-K Cobra Brake Kit with a spacer that they provide to keep the crown nut in line with the cotter hole.
Unfortunately FRPP does not sell this spacer separately (it is only available in the kit) and nobody else to my knowledge sells it either. But, I was able to obtain the height of this spacer from FRPP whom suggested I have my own manufactured. The height needed from the spacer is 0.330″ and the center hole diameter should be 5/8″ to fit on the stud. The thickness of the spacer should simply be sufficient to sustain the rigors of the suspension.
Another solution (the route I chose) is to simply obtain some 5/8″ hardened washers and stack them up to achieve the necessary height. I ended up needing 3 fairly thick washers per side.
Once you have your spacer (or washers) in place you can screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.
Now fit the tie rod end onto the spindle and screw on the crown nut but do not tighten just yet.
At this point the strut can be attached to the spindle with the two mounting bolts and nuts. Torque the nuts to specification (140-200 lbf.ft.). Some manipulation will most likely be necessary with the floor jack at this point to attach the strut mounting bolts.
Now you can torque down the tie rod end crown nut to specification (35-47 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.
Finally torque down the lower ball joint crown nut to specification (110-150 lbf.ft.) and install a new cotter pin.
With the spindle now installed, place the rotor on the hub and mount the loaded caliper on the spindle. Attach the caliper with the two mounting bolts and torque to specification (70-95 lbf.ft.).
Place a new copper washer on the SN95 Banjo Bolt and insert the Banjo Bolt into the flexible brake line. Place another new copper washer on the other end of the bolt (so there is now a new washer on either side of the brake line) and screw the Banjo Bolt into the caliper. Be sure to route the flexible line so that it will not make contact with the front tire or wheel while driving and turning and then torque the Banjo Bolt to specification (30-40 lbf.ft.).
Repeat procedure for opposite side.
Once both sides are complete bleed the brake system (consult your repair manual for proper bleeding procedure).
Once the brakes have been bled the new wheels can be mounted and the lug nuts snugged up. The car can then be safely lowered from the jack stands and, with the car on the ground, the lug nuts can be torqued to specification (85-105 lbf.ft.).
Finishing Up
ALIGNMENT
With the car on the ground and the steering wheel centered you will notice that both of the front wheels are pointing inward (toe-in). This is due to the different mounting points of the SN95 spindles. The car cannot be driven like this safely and will surely destroy your tires. The toe needs to be adjusted out so the car can at least be driven to have the front end re-aligned (or have the car towed). Consult your repair manual for the proper procedure for adjusting the toe (basically loosen the tie rod end lock nut and rotate the adjustment until the wheel(s) point straight forward and then tighten the lock nut).
CLEARANCE
With the toe adjusted check clearances before driving the car.
Check the clearance of the tires to the fenders. If they are going to rub then the fenders will have to be rolled to allow the proper clearance.
Check the clearance of the wheel to the lower control arm at full lock of the steering wheel. Larger wheels on an ’87 to ’90 Mustang will most likely rub at this point. This can be solved by installing steering rack limiters to decrease the turning radius of the vehicle (Ford part number N804842-S). ’91 to ’93 Mustangs have a decreased turn radius from the factory so this may not be a problem.
Finally check the clearance of the brake lines to ensure that they will not rub the tires or wheels under any condition.
Impressions
With the installation of the SN95 spindles and brakes on the front of the car I have noticed improved handling and braking. The steering feels more precise and responsive especially on turn-in.
One huge bonus is that the SN95 spindles seem to have completely cured the excessive bump-steer that I was experiencing. The car no longer wanders around the road following grooves or bumps. It just feels solid. This may not be the cure for everyone’s bump-steer but it helped in my case.
The improved design of the SN95 calipers provide more clamping force and less brake fade. A huge improvement over the stock Fox brakes.
Another positive aside from this conversion is that you now have the basis for the addition of larger Cobra brakes or an aftermarket big brake kit such as Baer later on down the road. These kits require SN95 style spindle and hub assemblies to work on Fox body cars.
Total outlay for parts (including brake pads and miscellaneous parts) and labor (for turning the rotors/drums and alignment) was just about $475 (not including new wheels). All in all it was a worthwhile conversion that I would certainly recommend to anyone considering converting to 5-lug on a budget. It will be more costly than simply using Mark VII rotors but not near as much as the FRPP M2300-K kit and will still give you improved braking and handling.
* Disclaimer: I am not a certified mechanic and in no way imply that I am. This article is only published to give the reader an idea of the scope of the task listed therein and should in no way be construed as instructions for completing this task. Consult a qualified mechanic before attempting this task. Torque values and technical references listed in this article are for reference only and are believed to be correct at the time of this writing. Always verify current torque specifications prior to final tightening. Use this article and the information contained herein at your own risk.:nono::didnotdoit:
I went out to a couple pick n pulls last weekend looking for a Aluminum driveshaft in AWD Aerostars. Unfortunately they where all gone already. However there where a few others that looked as though they had an aluminum driveshaft as well. Are these different? Any help would be great as I am looking to snag one ASAP. Thanks.
Aluminum Driveshaft
92-95 AWD Aerostar, swap yoke(s), 353 (napa) conversion ujoints, 3" dia
96-97 AWD Aerostar, direct bolt on, 3" dia
Aluminum Driveshaft
92-95 AWD Aerostar, swap yoke(s), 353 (napa) conversion ujoints, 3" dia
96-97 AWD Aerostar, direct bolt on, 3" dia
This may help amigo.I have looked back many pages and did a search on a thread that I saw a while back about "junkyard horsepower" ie; taurus fans,what to get #24 injectors from etc etc does anyone have a link?:clap
Official Thread of Applicable Junkyard parts for Foxes | Mustang Forums at StangNet
I`ll make this a sticky & leave it open so others can add to it.nod.gif
@RynoDragon
NOW THATS JUNKYARD DOGGIN!!!!! I love it,
I pulled 310 HP on the dyno with a customer car with this combo here..
Ported GT40 Heads from a 96 explorer.
Ported GT40 Intake from a 96 explorer
Harland sharp Roller rockers from craigslist
Adapted 65 MM throttle body 96 explorer
B303 Ford racing cam
24 lbs injectors from a Lincoln Continental
Aluminum driveshaft from Police Interceptor crown vic
8.8 rear diff 3.73 gears from a 98 explorer
Dont forget that you can get good HP gains from a good E7 heads port job too. One of my customers pulled almost 25 extra HP from porting his E7's and adding roller rockers. I was skeptical but he sent me his dyno sheets...
NOW THATS JUNKYARD DOGGIN!!!!! I love it,
I pulled 310 HP on the dyno with a customer car with this combo here..
Ported GT40 Heads from a 96 explorer.
Ported GT40 Intake from a 96 explorer
Harland sharp Roller rockers from craigslist
Adapted 65 MM throttle body 96 explorer
B303 Ford racing cam
24 lbs injectors from a Lincoln Continental
Aluminum driveshaft from Police Interceptor crown vic
8.8 rear diff 3.73 gears from a 98 explorer
Dont forget that you can get good HP gains from a good E7 heads port job too. One of my customers pulled almost 25 extra HP from porting his E7's and adding roller rockers. I was skeptical but he sent me his dyno sheets...
I see you are in California. I would like to do what you did to
mine but how did you smog it?
mine but how did you smog it?
91 lx 5.0
i have a 91 ford mustang and picked up some gt 40 heads and the intake off a 96 explorer and plan to bring the heads to a machine shop to get preasure tested and cleaned up i also will have the intake drilled for the air intake temp sensor is all this stuff bolt on and will the car run just as good as it does now with same injectors do i need new valve springs is using the same pushrods ok
i have a 91 ford mustang and picked up some gt 40 heads and the intake off a 96 explorer and plan to bring the heads to a machine shop to get preasure tested and cleaned up i also will have the intake drilled for the air intake temp sensor is all this stuff bolt on and will the car run just as good as it does now with same injectors do i need new valve springs is using the same pushrods ok
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
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