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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Everyone,


I'm new to this forum, but I've always read forums in the past. I just purchased an '89 LX 5.0 last Thursday. I bought it knowing I had to do some work to it, but had thought that it was a road ready project. That's not the case. I brought it to be inspected this week and the mechanic told me that the rust on the body of the car is beyond repair and it is not safe for the road. Thus, giving me a rejection sticker. I knew it had rust, but didn't know it was to that extent. That's only issue that I'm not sure how to go about. I can replace the gas tank/gaskets/fuel filler neck, fix the blinker/hazard issue and the transmission mount. That kind of stuff I can figure out. But the body, not sure what to do with, so I've come here for some tips/advice on how to go about my need for a Foxbody. The engine and tranny are fine. The inside of the engine, while looking down the oil inlet is shiny and looks pretty healthy. Here's what I've come up with options, and I'm not entirely sure what's the most beneficial:


1. Try and sell it for parts/restoration only and get back some of the money I spent. I probably won't get back that much. I paid $2700 (more than I should have).
2. Find a 4cyl mustang with little rust (found one for $2k or best offer) and swap the 8cyl and parts into it and have something that WILL pass inspection haha.
3. Buy and e30 and have a Frankenstein machine. Swap the v8 into it.
4. trade it for something on Craigslist, although I don't know what I would want.


Any advice and tips would be appreciated. Thanks!


- Andrew
 

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I would buy a body and do the swap if you have the time and the ability to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! I have the time to do it and am not in any rush to get it on the road (I'd love to have it done asap haha). Ability...it would be a learning process for me, but that's what I want. Getting the 4cyl and swapping is what I'm considering.
 

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I'd sell it for parts and chalk it up as a learning experience. Once you start chasing rust you'll always be chasing it. It can get very expensive if you have to farm the labor out.

The next time you go to look at a fox mustang / or any vehicle for that matter, with the intent on purchasing it; here are a few tips. It will give you a good indication if rust is present anywhere on the vehicle.

Take your hand and grab a hold of the 4 quarter panels where the fender lip is rolled; that's one of the places that rust 1st appears because of the salt/road grime lying up there. If they're rusted, rust will drop at your feet when you grab onto the rolled fender.... I did this to a guy that had his fox for sale many years ago.... swore his fox was mint. Should have seen the look on his face when the rust dropped by his feet.... it was priceless. lol

2nd, open both doors and grab a hold of the rocker panels with both hands. Squeeze as hard as you can. If they feel even a bit soft, WALK AWAY. Chances are they are rusted on the inside. Soft rocker sills are a dead giveaway to a rotten vehicle.

I've been using this method for 50 years, has'nt let me down yet. The water/salt lays in there because of the holes that are put there by the manufacturers get plugged with road grime; then the salt does its job.

If you think I'm joking check it out, crawl under your fox mustang. There are 4 tiny slits / holes per rocker sill. Even though my fox is an occassional driver, and never driven in the rain, I still check them every other year with a coat hanger to make sure they are not plugged. :grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd sell it for parts and chalk it up as a learning experience. Once you start chasing rust you'll always be chasing it. It can get very expensive if you have to farm the labor out.

The next time you go to look at a fox mustang / or any vehicle for that matter, with the intent on purchasing it; here are a few tips. It will give you a good indication if rust is present anywhere on the vehicle.

Take your hand and grab a hold of the 4 quarter panels where the fender lip is rolled; that's one of the places that rust 1st appears because of the salt/road grime lying up there. If they're rusted, rust will drop at your feet when you grab onto the rolled fender.... I did this to a guy that had his fox for sale many years ago.... swore his fox was mint. Should have seen the look on his face when the rust dropped by his feet.... it was priceless. lol

2nd, open both doors and grab a hold of the rocker panels with both hands. Squeeze as hard as you can. If they feel even a bit soft, WALK AWAY. Chances are they are rusted on the inside. Soft rocker sills are a dead giveaway to a rotten vehicle.

I've been using this method for 50 years, has'nt let me down yet. The water/salt lays in there because of the holes that are put there by the manufacturers get plugged with road grime; then the salt does its job.

If you think I'm joking check it out, crawl under your fox mustang. There are 4 tiny slits / holes per rocker sill. Even though my fox is an occassional driver, and never driven in the rain, I still check them every other year with a coat hanger to make sure they are not plugged. :grin:


That might be the best idea, thank you! I figure, for the time and money spent on getting another vehicle and doing the swap, I could have one in better condition and ready to go. Thank you for the tips!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can the 1989 5.0 be swapped into a 1992 4cyl? I understand that there are wiring harness differences and can't grasp if the 1989 wiring hardness will work or if I should be looking at a different harness/process?


I don't doubt it's a huge job, but I don't mind it either. It's not a daily or anything for me and I have the means of making it happen. I just can't find an answer on whether or not the harness will work.
I've found a rust free 4cyl in the area and am pretty close to buying it and having a project. I say pretty close, because I'm trying to figure out this wiring harness dilemma.
 

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Take the wiring harness from one car and put it in the other not hard to do when you have both cars sitting there.
 

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Take the wiring harness from one car and put it in the other not hard to do when you have both cars sitting there.
This is so much less work than what is involved.

You have to swap suspension as well. Pretty much everything from front to back, even the rear axle.

The only thing left on the car from the original 4cyl should be the shell. Everything else should be from the 5.0
 

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If you have the time and want to learn ALL about these cars, buy the 4cyl and do the swap. That will be a good, fun project and if the 4cyl is rust free like you say, you'll have a great car!
 

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This is so much less work than what is involved.

You have to swap suspension as well. Pretty much everything from front to back, even the rear axle.

The only thing left on the car from the original 4cyl should be the shell. Everything else should be from the 5.0
LOL I would think that part is a no brainer . I know how much work it is I have done a few already. For me it is easy and I forget that some are not as far along as I am with this stuff. But really with two cars side by side you pull parts from one and from the other and swap them not hard it is just nuts and bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just wanted to provide an update...

I went with purchasing the 4cyl. I have started my swap and have the cars facing eachother while i make the swap.

I managed to get the main eec harness, headlight harness and o2 harnesses for my year from a local guy. Managed to swap my clusters and got a solid set of fuel lines.

Right now, im working on getting the 5.0 ready to be taken out. The 2.3l is ready to be taken out, i just have to rent an engine hoist and do both in one full day.

The only problems ive run into are: the front v8 springs are broken, so ill have to get new ones. Might just check with the local guy to see if he has any. 2nd - the 5.0 does not have the engine hoist eye holes on, im guessing they were taken off when the owner modified the engine. Any suggestions on where to mount the engine hoist?

Thanks!
 

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