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Discussion Starter #1
I'm new here to this board, and need some help, I just got a 68 mustang coupe alittle while ago and was told it has a 302 in it. How can I tell what motor is in it, it needs a new carb. so I'd like to find out soon, right now it has a 2bbl on it and a blue intake. it will start if I spray starting fluid into it but as soon as it starts it dies out. what type of fuel pump is in the car? and how can I test it? any help would be great, and I'm sure I'll be asking alot..
 
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Woah woah man, slow down. You don't need a new carb just because your car won't start. And it is a 302 unless someone did an engine swap in it, but chances are if everything else is stock on the motor as it appears to be(2 barrel carb, Ford blue intake, etc.).

First of all, make sure the carb is getting gas. Have someone turn the key while you're looking down the throat of the carb to see if any gas is making it in. That, or take the fuel line off of the carb, point it at a bucket or something of the sort, and turn the key. If nothing comes out, you've got a clogged line or bad fuel pump. If gas does come out, all you need is to rebuild the carb, no big deal and much cheaper than buying a new one.

What would be a good idea off the start, is to change all of your spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, points, and fuel filter. All of those are cheap and well worth your money to get it running right.
 

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Acooljt said:
Woah woah man, slow down. You don't need a new carb just because your car won't start. And it is a 302 unless someone did an engine swap in it, but chances are if everything else is stock on the motor as it appears to be(2 barrel carb, Ford blue intake, etc.).

First of all, make sure the carb is getting gas. Have someone turn the key while you're looking down the throat of the carb to see if any gas is making it in. That, or take the fuel line off of the carb, point it at a bucket or something of the sort, and turn the key. If nothing comes out, you've got a clogged line or bad fuel pump. If gas does come out, all you need is to rebuild the carb, no big deal and much cheaper than buying a new one.

What would be a good idea off the start, is to change all of your spark plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, points, and fuel filter. All of those are cheap and well worth your money to get it running right.
It could be a 289. I have a 68 that came with a factory 289. If you got a 289 it was a base 2 barrel carb and not available as a hipo. The 302 was part of the GT option package. Just thought I'd let you know.
 
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I don't doubt the fact that the 302 was part of the GT package, but it was also available on all standard cars. And are you sure it was a 289 on that 68 since the 289 and 302 are EXACTLY alike besides the stroke? So you'd have to actually look inside the block and mike the measurements to determine which it was.

Also, no doubt it was possible that Ford used some leftover 289's in the 68 models as companies are known to do, but the 289 was no longer put in the Mustang's after 67. They introduced the 302's to the Mustang's in 68 and then the 351W in 69.

So, as I said, you likely have a 302 unless there's some indication of aftermarket parts in which we could investigate the possibility of it being another engine. But the only other engine's it could be mistaken for is the 289 and 351W, neither of which were available in 68 on the Mustang.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The guy I got the car from told me he switched it to 302, and I saw what he said was the original 289, but it had a rod comming through it so I wasn't worried about getting that. I thought that the 68's with the 302 had 4bbl carbs? When I ran the vin it said the car originally came with a 289 in it, so I thought he might have used the intake and carb from the car on the 302. the reson I want to change the carb is this just looks like sh*t, and its got some parts on the side of it that I think went to the kickdown, but like I said I'm new to the mustang so I really don't know.
 
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Like I said, Ford carried over some parts. For instance, I have a 67 Mustang(verified by the VIN tag) but it has a 66 gas cap.

I don't know what Ford did as far as induction combo's for the 302 in 68. But to my knowledge(after several beers) is that there is no way to tell a 289 from a 302 short of measuring the stroke. Not that it really matters since they're identical. I would have recommended an Edelbrock 2-barrel cause I thought they made them, but apparently they don't. Your best bet then is to go with a Holley 4412C(500cfm 2-bbl manual choke) and then buy the electric choke kit for it(part number 45-224) and put it on. If I were you, I'd just rebuild the Autolite carb you have on there, it will work just fine, and will be cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Is there anyway to tell the year of the motor, just for parts? that way I know what years to ask for at the parts store. And I was thinking that since I have to replace the carb. that if I don't have to change anything but the intake, I would go with a 4bbl carb. Is it really that easy? just change out the intakes? I can get used factory intakes for 20 bucks so it woudn't be that much more money. Thanks for all your help..
 
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The casting number on the block will be on the backside of the motor, passenger side, near the bellhousing. That will tell you the year and where it was made, etc. etc. Give us the numbers, we can interpret it for ya.

And yeah, that's pretty much it, a 4bbl intake and 4bbl carb. Though for the price, I'd get an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake for the price. They're less than $200. Make sure you get the RPM though and not just the plain Performer. There's a difference of $20 between the two of them and the RPM breathes *SO* much better.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm not really trying to spend alot on performance yet, I just want it running for now. until I decide on what to do, I was thinking about getting a bigger motor and converting it to stick, but thats down the road, I have alot to learn first,
 

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If you want to stay with a 2bbl you can get one for a '79 400. It's about 460 cfm whereas the one that came on it is about 360 cfm. It's a good upgrade for a small amount of money. :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If I pour gas into the carb. the car will start and idle for 5 sec. and die, I have fuel comming up to the carb, but thats it. If I go with the 79 carb, does that just bolt up?
 
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Yes, it will bolt up, but I wouldn't go with that carb because those were emissions restricted, so you're probably not going to get as good of an upgrade as you think. Do you know what kind of carb is on there now? There should be a tag on the carb that tells you what it is. Perhaps an Autolite 4300 or somethin like that(unless it's a Holley).

Anyway, sounds like your carb needs rebuilt. If you're sure gas is being pumped into your carb, then obviously the carb isn't actually mixing with the air and dumping it in the motor as it should, perhaps an accelerator pump or float problem. Anyway, I'd just rebuild the carb dude. The kits usually cost in the neighborhood of $20-30 plus labor(unless you plan on doing it yourself). Just take it to a reputable repair shop in your area and you can more than likely get the kit there as well.
 

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I wouldn't say that its emissions restricted, but that it has emissions provisions. It'll have extra vacuum ports that you can plug. The factory issue carbs may have had idle mixture blockoffs, I don't remember exactly, but the replacement carbs don't. I did it to one of my old heaps and it was alot more peppy. I had no complaints. :cool:
 

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Hello.:)If the fifth digit of the vin of your car is a C, then your car came with a 289.The 289 2bbl was still available in 68.An F would be a 302 2bbl and a J would be a 302 4bbl.If you pull off one of the valve covers there will be either a 302 or a 289 cast in the head.There is a casting number on the P/S of the block,as has been said, but you have to pull the starter to see it.
Now, as far as your not being able to keep the car running, the first thing that I would check would be to see if it had an inline fuel filter.If yes, then that is probably clogged up and should be replaced.If no, then you have a bunch of crud clogging up the carb.An Autolite 2100 (your carb) is the simplest carb in the world.It is a very simple matter to just clean one up inside.This is all assuming that the car actually has gas in it.The gauge could be reading funny.People don't usually change the oil, do a tune-up, flush the cooling system, rebuild the carb and fill up the gas tank in preperation of selling an old car like that. :D It normally goes more like 'drive it until it refuses to be driven any more, let it sit in the garage for a few years so that everything has a chance to really lock up or rust and then sell it.' You will probably discover that there are all sorts of little things wrong with car.Once you get it to where it will start and idle I would definitely check out the brakes and steering before I took it out on the road.Those two things are kind of important.Good luck.:)
 
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