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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, my throw out bearing was really beginning to sound more like power steering pump, so I ordered my new one. I ordered a Spec stage 2 clutch and I had to get a Steeda adjustable cable/quadrant. The best part was that I ordered it from Blue Oval Performance and they are located in Vancouver, WA, so not only do I get free shipping, but its really fast too. Thanks to GhostDog for the extra confirmation about the Spec clutches as I have heard nothing but great things. Is there anything that I need to know about the install? I have a Haynes manual, but Im just checking to see if you guys know anything that will make this a little smoother. I will also be putting in a new rear main seal, and maybe an oil pan gasket while I have the k-member off. (I think I have to have that off right?) Thanks guys.
 

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Might as well get your flywheel resurfaced or replaced. You should getcha a new pilot bearing too. You should be able to rent a puller from the 'zone.
Not the K member, but the tranny crossmember. Or #3, #1 being the radiator support.
The only thing to really worry about, is getting the H-pipe off. Unless you've got an impact wrench, the bolts can be a beeyotch. I went to a muffler shop and had them remove the old bolts and install new ones so I could do my '84. Also, if your H-pipe has never been out, the tube from the smog pump can present a problem. I've heard to heat the junction with a torch, and separate them. Mine are connected with a piece of garden hose:what: (WTF) on my '92, I guess I'm just lucky...
Drain your tranny first, and have a drain pan ready when you pull the tranny down, 'cause it will leak out the driveshaft hole - you can also stick the driveshaft yoke back in for this. Clean the flywheel and pressure plate friction surface with brake parts cleaner before you reassemble.
And remember, the higher you raise the car, the farther you'll have to lower and raise the tranny - and it ain't exactly light.
The driveshaft bolts take a 12mm twelve-point socket.
I try to allocate at least two days for this job, just in case.
Good luck bro', that's a big job.
 

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Removing the driveshaft should be done with a 12 pt 12mm wrench (closed end) and then put a larger wrench (like a 15mm) with the closed end on the open end of the 12mm wrench. This will give you much more leverage. It's nearly impossible to get a socket+ratchet in the driveshaft area.

It took a friend of mine and me about 4 hours to do it. We had all the parts ready to go though. I would replace the rear main seal and pilot bearing while you are in there.

I would also recommend (if the cash permits) getting a new ford racing cast iron flywheel for $100 from summitracing. Why take a chance with a part that is nearly 16 years old?
 

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Ditto on the main seal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh there was no hesitation about the rear main. I guess I finally get to see if that really is my oil leak. I also seem to have one from the front (very small, but the dizzy area is always slightly wet). hopefully this will go smoothly. I put the catback on my car about2 months ago now and it was no sweat as far as bolts go. They came right off and it was stock Ford mufflers/pipes. i hope my H-Pipe is not too bad to get off... :) I have heard the same about the air tube though.... Is it metal? Thanks guys, lets hope there are no hang ups and Ill get back to you when its in to see how she feels :):):)
 

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Stangboy5666 said:
I have heard the same about the air tube though.... Is it metal?
Yes sir. If it really gives you trouble, I guess you could unfasten it up by the motor - I think there's some bracktry and such, there.
 
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