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Just purchased; 1997 Mustang GT - Need Advice

1K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  Ichabod_cran3 
#1 ·
What's up guys! I just purchased a 1997 Mustang GT. This is the 5th mustang I have owned however it's the first I have had with an S/C setup. I just wanted to get a few outside opinions on it. Sorry for the long post in advance:

More about the car:
4.6L - Dash reads 60k miles
-Wynjammer Supercharger (I have done my research, I know it no vortech)
-MSD Ignition
-SVO Red top Injectors
-Aluminum Fuel Rails
-Aeromotive fuel pump
-Aeromotive Regulator
-BBK Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers
-K&N Cold Air Intake
-Fuel Pressure, Temp, A/F, and Boost Gauges
-Line Lock
-Ram HDX Clutch Kit
-Tremec 3650 Transmission
-Tubular K Member
-Caster Camber Plates
-Frame Connectors
-Driveline Hoop
-Rear Sway Bar
-X Pipe

I’ll try to list everything I know:

Purchased the car on 02/20/2016
Drove it approx. 120 miles home (back to the valley) with no noticeable problems.

Took it in for emissions: Failed because they couldn't get a read from the OBD. Took it to a shop to have the harness rewired (disconnected red wire). Shop solved the problem and scanned the OBD and said no errors came up. Went back to emissions and they still couldn't get a read. "Something about them having a mechanical emissions reader and the shop not?" I was able to get it registered for 5 years so I got that problem solved.

The guy I bought it off of owned to for a year. He owns a performance shop in Prescott Valley. He said it had been sitting for 5 years after the owner before him passed away. So when he bought it he did -8 braided fuel lines and rebuilt the injectors. Bought the car "as is (with all mods already installed)" from the person that passed away. Has a stock rear end (which I was kind of uneasy about). Has a low slump fuel tank with an analog boost gauge. Looks like it’s pushing about 8-10 lbs. of boost. He assumed there was a tune on it because of the aftermarket o2 sensors (whatever that means?).

A few questions I have:

I've put about 350 miles on it since I purchased it on 02/20/16. One thing I have noticed was the center console tend to generate more heat than my previous mustangs. Is the excess heat coming from the long tube headers?

Also, ONLY when I fill the tank all the way it will start to leak. The leaking stops once the tank gets to about 3/4 of a tank so i tend to run it just above 1/4 then put about 15.00$ in to keep it under full. Is this a common problem in mustangs? Or do I have a puncture and have to get a new tank.

When idling my A/F gauge shows that the car is running lean. Also when driving there isn't much of a change. What do I want my A/F to be reading and what are problems that could be causing it to run lean?

What type of general maintenance needs to be done on cars with forced induction? Aside from general fluid flush, brakes, etc. How often should I be getting the car serviced?

Finally, does anyone know of any reputable performance shops in the Phoenix, Arizona area? I've seen a few online but nothing has jumped out at me.

Thanks to those who take the time to read and reply in advance. I look forward to hearing you're thoughts and opinions!!!

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
Never heard of a "Wyndjammer" supercharger....

I can't be of too much help here but what I can help with is the fuel leak that occurs during filling. New fuel neck filler grommet is what you need. It's about a $15 round piece of rubber from your local Ford dealer parts desk. Not difficult to install but you will have to drop the tank down about halfway, so I would advise doing the work with the tank as reasonably close to empty as you can stand to get it. And yes, this piece leaking is a somewhat common issue. They can dry out and become brittle or the other thing that happens is that somebody dropped the tank for whatever reason (in your case probably to install a high flow pump) and did not replace it - it is a one time use piece; any time the filler neck is disconnected from the tank a new grommet should be installed.

As far as the stock rearend, as long as you're running street tires and not slicks it should be fine. If you plan on some decent track launches on drag radials or anything stickier than that then 31 spline axles and diff are two things you might wanna start thinking about.

The center console heat, sounds reasonable to attribute that to the headers. Not sure if much can be done about it.
 
#3 ·
thanks for the reply!!

wynjammer is a company based out of Glendale, Az. They only dude superchargers for GM and Chevy Now.

Fuel Tank: Okay sweet, sounds like it wont be anything too major. looks like ill be able to do that one myself.

With the rear end, its my daily driver, I'm running summer tired right now and don't plan on taking it to the track. Good to know I won't be destroying my rear end if I'm light on it.

Just as long as I know where the heat is coming from I'm not to worried about it. The heater core has been removed so that'll help a bit in the winter haha

Thanks again for the reply.
 
#4 ·
Your AFR should be around 14.7, give or take a few decimal points, at idle/cruising/light throttle. At WOT, being boosted, it should be around 11 +-.5 depending on how conservative the tune is.

How do you know it's running lean? You didn't post what the readings were that made you think it is running lean.
 
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