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hey guys i dont know if you have ever seen it before, but on the drivers inner fender ive seen some people with just the coil and bracket. its like they relocated all the fusible links some where i thinks it looks really good does anybody know how to do this?
thanks jason
 

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There's a few here who've done that, they hid all of the wiring inside the fender. Hopefully one of them will tell you how they did it because it really looks good without all the cables and links being seen.
 

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i am interested in this as well. My engine is pulled and now is as good a time as any.


I found this on a different forum group. I am not sure the linking policy of AFM so I cut and pasted this. It was written by someonewho goes by MANSONOZZ back in 2003. None of the links worked for me. I did not write this and I have not tried this. I am just reposting it. If someone will let me know if it is okay I will like to where it came from.

I made this as a little tutorial to help everyone out. I know this is a hot topic and I wanted to share. I'll have it as a tech article on my website eventually, once I finish it up. But for now, check it out.

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First, a few rules:

1. There is no "ONE WAY" to do it. Period.
2. The main idea is that you have to figure out the specifics to get this done on your own...by digging in and figuring it out.
3. There's only one way harnesses can go back together, so don't be afraid. Take pics, draw diagrams, whatever helps. Especially of the solenoid since you CAN mess that up. Once you play with the wires for a couple hours you will know it all by heart, but you are better off playing it safe.

To start, Remove the wheel and fender dust liner. A dozen or so bolts and some elbow grease will get it out. Cover your eyes! It's dusty.

Now, remove all wire looms from the wires in the by, cut electrical tape, and sort out your wires. Get an idea what everything is, nothing too involved. Disconnect all plugs and harnesses. The rearmost wires will be shoved through the hole(s) in the back of the strut tower and put into the fenderwell. This is where you will re-connect them all and they will be out of the way.

Do the same with the wires that you have left, in the frontal region of the bay, and route them in the open area between the framerail and the back of the headlights. Reach up into the fenderwell and pull all harnesses through. Connect them, zip tie them for security, and there you go!

For the driver's side, it's the same thing. Make the wires get into the fenderwell the same way, connect them and tie them to wherever they can fit, bolt the solenoid wherever all the attaching wires will reach, and ground your wires to a solid surface.

For each side, you will most likely have to enlarge the holes in the back of the strut towers. Use snips and clamps, vice grips, grinders, cutoff wheels, whatever you have.

92-93 Stangs have the AC & fuel pump relays in the bay on the pass. side and the holes will need to be enlarged greatly to fit them through. It's a pain but it's very possible (I've done it the hard way, trust me). As well, if you also put the coil wire/harness into the fenderwell, you will need to cut a hole in the side to allow it BACK into the engine bay. Otherwise, you will have no way to connect your coil. You can't see it in my pics yet, but my hole was cut to the lower left of the washer reservior. Between the strut tower and where the battery will be, is where the coil will be mounted. I am mounting it upside down to hide the plug even more, but if you want to mount yours in the traditional manor, just cut your plug-hole up a few inches.

The positive battery cable will need to be lengthened or replaced with a longer one. Run it underneath the battery tray, through the headlight area, down around the fender, and to the solenoid. Same idea with the negative cable if it does not reach, and also the starter cable and ground wire.

OK! So with all that info, you are ready to do it. You can ask specific questions all you want, but in the end you are most likely going to have to figure out a way to make it work for yourself. I've been guided through this step-by-step when I did my passenger side, and after I got the general (through the strut tower and headlight area), I was absolutely LOST. Nothing told to me helped me, as our cars were totally different as far as wiring and slack went.

You know where the wires have to meet, you know how to get them there, so there ya go!

I didn't take pics of my pass. side when I did them, but I tried snagging a pic tonight. I do have pics of the solenoid area and driver's side, as I am currently filling in all the ugly holes and going to paint the whole bay.

Edit: It goes without saying but I want everyone to be safe: Since you now have mostly bare wires all over the place, you want to wrap them in electrical tape and some new, smaller wire loom around edges. You can even use some windshield wiper rubber to make protectant liners for the holes you cut/enlarged. Not only is it safer but it gives a much cleaner look

NOW FOR THE PICS

http://mortville6.tripod.com/wires.html

Hopefully tripod can handle a decent amount of hits without shutting down, that's where my page is based. It has pics of the basic ideas you need.

Now, for the time involved, I estimate each side at 2-4 hours EACH, depending how neat you want it. You could do a messy job in 2-3 hours total, but what's the point of that?
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This is a followup post

Since I wrote this up spur of the moment after I finished for my evening's work on the car, I forgot all about the firewall area which I had done previously. What I did was just unravel all the wires, harnesses and brakelines to make them neater and simply tuck them under the pinchweld and over the brake booster. With that, I ran the vacuum tree into the fenderwell (as you see in my pics) and put the vacuum hoses through the brakeline holes behind the strut towers. The only thing to watch out for, like I found out the hard way, is to NOT kink up your hoses. I had no brake booster and no cruise control at first, lol. A simple poke of a tube fixed that. I had to lengthen the washer fluid hose, I believe, or maybe it was the cruise control pressure hose. All that needed was a foot or so of hose and a T-fitting and I was on my way.

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Another follow up post

No question, it's much easier when there are less parts on the car. But I wasn't interested in pulling fenders at all

I just used the All Metal to fill the holes. If i welded, that alone would've been good enough. I only used A.M. because I didn't want to pull the engine to be able to weld the holes shut.



Again I did not write this nor did I try this. I just found it and posted it.

Aaron
 

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yeah me too. When I get done my with the motor, transmission, hiding the wires I bet I wont be able to turn the motor over I'll screw so many things up.:gringreen It will look good though
 
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