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I"m wondering if anyone has put a late model injected 302 into a 68 mustang coupe. And if so, what year motor did you use, and what type of injection system, and if it was worth the work, versus spending 2 to 3 grand on an after market system.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You

P.S. It's an original J code 302 with factory 4 barrel, automatic, and 73000 original miles. Also factory air and front disc brakes, girlfriend really does not want to do a full restoration at this time but we would like to see it run great and get some better mpg.
Thanks Again
 

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If costs right now are a concern, you could put an AOD in your car and get better mpg.

In my set up, I used a 5.0L from a 93 Mustang, AOD from a 1990 Mercury Grand Marquis, and wiring from a 1992 Mustang GT. My rear gear was 2.8 or 3.0, can't recall, and I got ~23+ mpg constantly...I suspect higher, but let's go with that. Car was fun to drive.
May 2009, blew up the rear end/driveshaft, put in a 3.50 9 inch rear end, loads more fun to drive, got 20.2 mpg last week on a 1,000 mile roadtrip.
 

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I put a 95 GT motor in my 65. Works great. Starting is now problem free with the stock EFI. I'd get better mileage if I did not like the sound it makes through the Flowmaster 40s over 3000 rpm so much.

You won't regret doing this swap once you get all the kinks worked out. You will regret doing it before then, so just stick with it.

1965 Mustang Restomod
 

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You can do it realtivly cheap by finding a Pull A Part type salvage yard, use any 302 based from a thunderbird or cougar(and others Im sure) all of the sensors remain in the intake and the wiring is as such that you cant plug stuff in wrong(each sensor has a dedicated shaped connector). you will need to get a wiring harness and I applaud those who cannibalize them but google RJM Wiring Harness and for 450 you get a new ready to go wiring harness with everything you need to plug in and the only 3 connections you really have to make is a battery 12V+, battery and chassi 12 ground and run in start only(usually of the starter solenoid) everything else is dedicated. Outside this you have to use an electric fuel pump, install 2 O2 sensor bungs into the exhaust and install a return line for the fuel system. its really not bad but really worth it. I was amazed that threre was NO throttle lag - at all.
 

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efi doesn't get better mpg's...or performance. Driveability is the only gain. I'm doing a junkyard swap, and a few hundred, not thousand is all it takes. Use Earl fuel line...cheap and effective, a junkyard harness, and a late model explorer efi intake...cost you next to nothing
 

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20mpg is the best you will ever get because these cars are bricks on wheels.efi does get better mpg vs a carb faster start ups and faster throttle response.
 

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OP,

I had for several years a '90GT and a 289 '66 sitting in the driveway. The '90 was a MUCH better drive; fuel economy was about 23mpg on the highway (with 2.73:1 gears), like said above, instant starts, great throttle response, etc etc. I used to have a negative opinion of those that swapped the 5.0 EFI into a vintage Mustang......until I owned a 5.0EFI! I personally am not planning on this swap for my car, but it is something I do seriously consider from time to time. If you can find a donor car, that would probably make things a lot easier. Try Craigslist in your area. I see older 5.0 Mustangs with crap bodies and interiors in the $1500 to $2500 range quite often. Grab what you need, eBay the rest. :gringreen

Michael
 

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People often want to buy used to save money, and that is a valid motivation. What is often not addressed is the fact that you will LEARN much more if you have to figure out HOW it works in order to GET it to work. The knowledge gained is arguably worth far more than the savings you get from buying used. So in my opinion, "used" is a win-win.

Those with a fat checkbook can get a nice car, but the person who pours themselves into the car gets more appreciation and a wonderful sense of accomplishment once it is complete.
 

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People often want to buy used to save money, and that is a valid motivation. What is often not addressed is the fact that you will LEARN much more if you have to figure out HOW it works in order to GET it to work. The knowledge gained is arguably worth far more than the savings you get from buying used. So in my opinion, "used" is a win-win.

Those with a fat checkbook can get a nice car, but the person who pours themselves into the car gets more appreciation and a wonderful sense of accomplishment once it is complete.
Could not agree more. Plus, it's fun to do it that way. I'd rather make than buy, and I have fun along the way. I'm sure it's true for most of us here, but we really feel a sense of accomplishment when we've "conquered" a particular objective. Plus we get to feel like McGyver.
 

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Mustang Bradley, that's one of the reasons I adapted a late model Mustang harness to my 66...I know what every wire does, as opposed to buying a ready made harness. Those who say that EFI doesn't get better mileage than carbs are wrong.
 

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Came across this after reading this thread:

Mustangs Plus - Tech Articles - Project EFI GT (Page 1)

They dropped a 5.0 EFI intake onto a 289. I always wondered why people didn't do this. Yeah the roller block is better blahblahblah but if you're like me and have a very healthy, very original 289, why dump it (or tear it down to do a roller conversion)? I don't have deep pockets, and I really can't justify replacing something that doesn't need to be replaced. That said, my 2100 carb has seen better days, my distributor is worn, and my 289 could really use an upgrade like this. Very exciting. I am gonna have to crawl around eBay and some junkyards!

Michael
 

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Mustang Bradley, that's one of the reasons I adapted a late model Mustang harness to my 66...I know what every wire does, as opposed to buying a ready made harness. Those who say that EFI doesn't get better mileage than carbs are wrong.
Those who claim EFI does not get better mileage are correct in a way. They are correct in that an EFI system CAN do as "poorly" as a carb does in terms of MPG. Give any 16 year old kid one of our EFI cars and I guarantee they won't get more than 14mpg. Drive that same car at 65 for a while and the efficiency of EFI will make itself known.

On the other hand, a person knowledgable in the Dark Arts of Carburation can tune and choose jets and needles and turn air-mix screws for hours and hours. Then they can match our mpg performance on the highway. But if they want to go vintage racing, they must pull out their tools and do all that tuning again, while we, with EFI can just put on our helmet and go out onto the course.

EFI has supplanted carbs for a reason: they WORK better day in, day out. That does not mean a carb can't do what EFI can. It just requires more owner intervention.

To address your other point, making something work with something that it was not designed to work with, actually work, is a satisfying endeavor. It was a challenge getting the EFI to work in my 65, but it was not foolhardy. I'd do it again, but I have the benefit of knowledge gained, so the next time will most certainly go smoother. :)
 

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Came across this after reading this thread:

Mustangs Plus - Tech Articles - Project EFI GT (Page 1)

They dropped a 5.0 EFI intake onto a 289. I always wondered why people didn't do this. Yeah the roller block is better blahblahblah but if you're like me and have a very healthy, very original 289, why dump it (or tear it down to do a roller conversion)? I don't have deep pockets, and I really can't justify replacing something that doesn't need to be replaced. That said, my 2100 carb has seen better days, my distributor is worn, and my 289 could really use an upgrade like this. Very exciting. I am gonna have to crawl around eBay and some junkyards!

Michael
You won't regret taking the plunge. There are many people who have just transplanted a 5.0, including me, but putting the intake/EFI on a 289 will put you in a more select group. Keep us in the loop as you undertake this project.

On a side note, what are you doing in Kosova? I don't want to hijack this thread, but your profile caught my eye.
 

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does anybody has the steps to do the cut stock harnnes from the later cars? if not i might have to spend the dough. thanks
 

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You can always go to a salvage yard and get the harness yourself.
I live near Atlanta and went here: Prestige Mustang Parts - Your #1 source for used antique and late model Mustang parts.

A salvage yard will hopefully be able to get you a complete harness without any cuts in the wiring.

Asked for a 91-93 engine harness for a 5.0L Mustang. They had shelves of wiring harnesses already pulled off of the cars in the yard. I think I paid around $200 in 2006 for it. I'd trust a salvage yard over eBay. I had first tried to get a harness off of eBay, when I got it in the mail it took me a day or two to figure out that it was from a Ford, but not a Mustang.

If I remember correctly, the wiring that goes to the injectors is separate from the EFI wiring that goes to the computer.
 

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I agree with every statement posted so fas because they are in some essence right.
I am a huge fan of new wiring after seeing the difference a new harness can make in a (69) 40 year old car. Copper DOES break down and loose its conductivity and ability to carry amperage. That being said why put a 20 year old wiring harness in? it might cost a little less on the front end but what if you are the guy who got the harness with the pinched wire or corroded wire in it that outwardly "looks" good? I suggest this because I have tried to go the cheaper route so many times and ended up spending twice the cost of a decent part/piece. It is up to you but once completed, next to an overdrive tranny this is by leaps and bounds the best thing you can do to make your car reliable and fun. Learn? indeed you will no matter which harness you go with.
 

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I'm almost done with my swap but I have a few questions.. how do you route the vacuum lines in the upper intake, throttle body etc.? and also, in the accerlaretor cable, where do I bolt the braket? if you have pics that's a plus.. thanks
 

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I'm almost done with my swap but I have a few questions.. how do you route the vacuum lines in the upper intake, throttle body etc.? and also, in the accerlaretor cable, where do I bolt the braket? if you have pics that's a plus.. thanks
What year EFI system are you using? A few of those ports you can just block off. For instance, there is a large port on the intake that is near the brake booster. If you don't have a brake booster, you can plug that. If in doubt, plug any hole you find in the intake since it will become a vacuum leak if left open and unused.
 
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