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Hello, I'm having problems with the left bottom side of the instrument cluster, the section where you have lights for check engine, door open, traction control off, TPMS and others. It seems that the whole panel does not work. I haven't seen any lights work on that side. Did anyone have a similar experience? The other side and gauges work fine, only that side is not working since I got the car used. Thank you for any help :)
 

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Hey WELCOME to AFM,Always sorry to here about electrical problems they seem to be the hardest to fix,but here goes.Fuses, look in the owners manual see how many fuses run the instrument cluster,next plug in connectors, how many and are they tight,also did you buy the Mustang from a dealer or private party,might want to see if you can resolve your problem that way.I am not sure if the instrument cluster is a printed circuit board type or not,just my thoughts for now,keep us posted & good luck.
5.0 Coyote.:|
 
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Since I replaced My 2013 Cluster for the "Dual Path" 2014 Gauge Cluster (So I could Take Advantage Of The "Boss 302's" Track-Key Option. And I went this route because it was before Ford Racing offered the Option to just have them send me a new SSD Card for my Pro-Cal-2, But that is another story ; ) ........

First off, I would start by seeing if the Power, and Can-Buss Dongles are Indeed Pushed all the way home (Locked until they Click!).......As I had the same issue when I Installed the 2014 Unit (Only had 1 side with Power!!!) ......The Cluster itself is relatively Easy to remove (Enough to SEE And Get to The Connector!) As there are directions readily available....Most of the removal is just "Pulling the Left Dash-Vent assembly STRAIGHT OFF....MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE THE TILT SETTING ON YOUR STEERING WHEEL SET TO THE LOWEST (DOWN) SETTING!!....As always! (When working with Electronics-Electrical devices, DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON YOUR BATT.!!....You then Remove the Right hand side "Smaller" Dash piece (BOTH of these oeices are just held in by non locking push-Pull Pins, so there is nothing that you have to "Unlock" so to speak, JUST BE CAREFULL WHEN PULLING THEM OUT, AND PUSHING THEM BACK IN! (No Gorilla action please! :grin:) .......

Now, once you have both left and right hand Dash parts (That Butt Up against the Gauge Cluster) Removed, you will be able to see the 2 or 3 Screws (Cant remember! Mild Senility has set in!:wink:).....But from here you can now remove the Cluster Screws.....(DON'T DROP THEM! As you most likely have a FREAKIN RATTLE If you don't find one, and it goes behind Dash!!:frown::surprise:) .......

OK NOW......Pull the Cluster as close to STRAIGHT TOWARDS YOU AS POSSIBLE! As there ARE LINE UP "PEGS" that have tiny Rubber "End-Caps", (But Keep In Mind, You Do NOT Have To Pull The Gauge Cluster Completely Out In Order To Check That The Connection Is Indeed FULLY CONNECTED!!) And you Don't want to loose any of these (AGAIN POSSIBLE RATTLES!:frown:)......

FINALLY!......You can now take a "Peek" at the back of the Cluster to see if it is fully connected.....Now in MY CASE, The connector LOOKED As though everything was OK! But it was NOT! So I myself suggest that you UNPLUG, then REATTACH The Connector just to be on the safe side......I Would also check to make SURE that the Female connector doe not show ANY SIGNS Of Loose wires going into the plug, AND MAKE SURE that you check the "Male" side, to see if you have any bent, or missing Pins.......

Again, I am in NO WAY suggesting that Your issue IS the same thing that happened to Me!.....But you Never Know?......I do know that a New Gauge Cluster, (Your Car has the 6 Gauge iteration (Oil Pressure, and Volt Meter or Coolant temp. I forget!) due to it being a Premium! So a New Cluster will cost you about $300.00 + Core!....That is in the case you Must replace the Cluster (If you have a Ford Extended Warranty, It will be covered!:wink:) .....And the Best (Cheapest Ford to get a hold of one is that HUGE Ford Parts Depot (I think it was called "Whitehorse Ford" in Wisconsin (Again, I cant remember!......But I DO HAVE A Extra 2014 Cluster with the 4.2" LCD Data Screen, (With "Track-Apps") between the 2 Big analog Gauges, and YOU could set this up in your Stang. But you would need to install some extra sensors in order to get full use out of all of the Data! But you would have oil temp, and Pressure, Automatic Trans. Temp., Air/Fuel Ratio, But I think that there might be an issue with engine temp. As the 2013+ Premiums use a "Engine Head Temp." sensor, so Im not sure about how many of your sensors are sent from the PCM to the Gauge Cluster Via the Can-Buss!:nerd:.....We need one of our Electronic (PCM Software) Experts to chime in here!:grin:

Don't forget, YOU WILL NEED TO SEND OUT ANY CLUSTER THAT YOU GET (If it needs replacing!) to have the Mileage RESET to match your current mileage!!:wink: If you purchase it from the place I named, They will send it out for you!....This is Very Important because, EVEN FORD CANT SET THE MILEAGE ON ANY CLUSTER with their IDS Toolbox!...But this makes sense, because we cant have Dealers going around changing Mileage on ANY Cars that they are selling, right?!......

If you find out that your Cluster is half "Cooked" PM Me, and we can make some sort if arrangement on the 2014-MY Cluster that I have.:wink::smile:.......

Sean.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So last night I was able to check the car out. I checked all the fuses first and those for the cluster seemed fine. So the next step was to take the cluster out and check the connector. Just as Sean Reilly predicted the connector was plugged in but something was loose. After disconnecting and plugging it back in, the left bottom side of the dash started to work :) I also check the lights, they are LED lights soldered onto the dashboard. So replacing those would require some skills and tools. Thank you for the connector issue tip!
 

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So last night I was able to check the car out. I checked all the fuses first and those for the cluster seemed fine. So the next step was to take the cluster out and check the connector. Just as Sean Reilly predicted the connector was plugged in but something was loose. After disconnecting and plugging it back in, the left bottom side of the dash started to work :) I also check the lights, they are LED lights soldered onto the dashboard. So replacing those would require some skills and tools. Thank you for the connector issue tip!
Of course this now begs the question - why was it loose? You say you just bought the car used. I would investigate to find out why the cluster would have been removed in the first place just to make sure nothing shady is going on from that dealer. I would also recommend checking the rest of the car (underside too) with a fine tooth comb. Especially behind the bumper areas. Check for accident damage like new looking parts, parts with part label tags on them, etc.
 
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