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Discussion Starter #1
Alright guys, finnally got the lost title issues worked out on the 67 coupe.:rockwoot::racer: Getting her ready for the maiden voyage with oil change, plugs, wires, hoses, new rear end grease, and tranny fluid and filters.:winks


What do you all use for oil, rear end grease.:headscratch: I used to be a Castrol fan, but a mechanic buddy told me it causes sludge. I was thinking of high milage oil cause it is a 67 286 with 75,000.00 original miles. Also I switched to Mobile One synthetic in the wifes van and was debating between conventional or synthetic in the stang, what do you all think. Any body here with any insight on oil, rearend grease, filters and related stuff. I used to be all Ford products, but I'm not to sure. Anyone here use all Ford stuff like Motorcraft or MotorSport?
Let it fly any info will be helpful. :bigthumbsupThanks
 

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a mechanic buddy told me it causes sludge
He's an idiot....

Although I do not use Castrol products you cannot go wrong with anything they make.

Use whatever brand you are comfortable with.:hihi:
 

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I don't know.:headscratch: That's not the first time I have heard that about Castrol. Anyway what type of grease and oil does everyone use?
 

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I don't know.:headscratch: That's not the first time I have heard that about Castrol. Anyway what type of grease and oil does everyone use?
The first Castrol product that I am aware of was made from beans and was even nicknamed 'bean oil' and was a 2-stroke oil. Mix with gasoline like in a weedeater....we used it in motorcycles before they came equipped with oil pumps. After extended use sludge would build up. The petroleum oils of the day did not suffer from this sludge buildup.

Castrol has not used 'bean oil' since the 60s but the name is still associated with the term and the problems. Castrol DOES NOT cause sludge buildup.
 

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For the most part - you get what you pay for. So, at the risk of encouraging an no-win oil debate. Simply put...If you can still get the Dollar Store oil for a dollar, it will work but I wouldn't let the oil change intervals get past 1000 miles. Now, synthetics boast much longer intervals and you pay for it. Sludge is caused by over using the oil (excessive oil change intervals) and blow by which can be caused in part by excessive oil change intervals. It's a vicous circle. That said, I'll answer your question. I use Walmart oil (don't shoot me!) for things like my tractor, lawn mower, my beater truck and the sort. I use brand name oils for my classics like valvoline, wix filters whenever possible, AND stick to religous oil change intervals.
 

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With your engine having flat tappets, you need an oil that still contains zinc phosphate. All of the conventional and synthetic gas engine oils have all but eliminated this additive that is necessary to prevent scuffing of the cam lobes and flat tappets (Lifters). All modern engines are using roller lifters or cam followers which eliminates the need and it's said the zinc migrates through exhaust fumes and ruins catalytic converters. The main reason for the reduction or elimination. I use Shell Rotella T Full Synthetic 5W-40 (The only weight that I have found.) It is basically an oil for Diesels and contains a higher level of zinc. It qualifies as an oil for gas engines, also. Otherwise, use a zinc additive such as what Lucas offers, with your choice of oil. If money is no object, use Royal Purple. They now offer oils with the zinc formulation. Expensive, but the best, in my opinion. In fact all of their lubricants are top notch.

If not able to use RP then for rear ends I recommend Lucas. Auto trans fluid, Type F is getting hard to find. I'd use a name brand on that. Chassis grease and bearings, I use either Morley's "Red Grease" or what is called either "Green Stuff or Green Grease".

On oil filters Wix, K&N or Motorcraft. For spark plugs, I like Motorcraft. There is no need to use platinum if you're changing plugs at around 10 to 15,000 miles. From several articles that I've read, there is actually no real need to use synthetic motor oil if oil is being changed at 3,000 mi. They say that conventional oil doesn't start breaking down at that oil change interval.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Awesome guys:bigthumbsup That's what I am talking about! What is your opinion on Motorcraft oils and greases?:headscratch:
 

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I'm found that all oils that meet the API SM spec have reduced levels of Zinc. I decided to add ZDDPPlus, to ensure enough Zinc. I am using Mobil 10W-30 for now, until I finish breaking in my engine and then I'll switch to Mobil 1 and continue adding ZDDPlus. I use the Motorcraft FL-1A oil filter.

The Greek, the AutoZone I go to always has Type F fluid on the shelf. If they don't have it at your local store, they'll get it for you in a couple of days.
 

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Yeah I was leaning toward Mobile 1. I'll research that Royal Blue, and if I can afford it, I might try it. Thanks guys!:bigthumbsup
 

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I recommend you find Blue grease. It is a much better and longer lasting grease than red grease.
 

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Here's Mobil 1's list of oils and ZDDP content, you'll get varying opinions, from what I've gathered a level of 1200-1500ppm of ZDDP is where you want to be. I plan to use an additive with Mobil 1 syn., I have a few bottles of CompCams additive on hand but there are many out there - ZDDP+, GM EOS, etc.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

I put Mobil 1 syn. 75W90 in my 9" tracloc with the bottle of Ford additive.
Jon
 
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