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Discussion Starter #1
www.nutt.us/Mustang/bigpicture.jpg

I'll be the first to admit, this is not for everyone. But if you have a nitrous setup (or are thinking of getting one) and you like computers (or just want to protect your valuable engine), then this might interest you. I started out with a ZEX nitrous system which I really like, but it is lacking a few features that I really wanted so I integrated an FJO Racing 2-stage nitrous controller. Here are some of the reasons I was looking for a nitrous controller.


1) You should never inject nitrous at low RPMs, usually you hear not below 2500 RPM. With the ZEX system it is very possible to turn on nitrous below 2500 RPM since it is based on WOT only, and not RPMs. If you put the pedal to the metal the nitrous will shoot no matter the RPMs, potentially causing engine damage like can happen if you get bogged down on the line due to a bad start on the clutch.

2) You should never inject nitrous as your reach the RPM limit. When the Mustang computer senses that the max RPMs have been reached (around 6000 RPMs for stock configuration) is shuts down the engine by shutting off the fuel. But the ZEX system is not RPM aware so it keeps pumping nitrous as long as the pedal is to the metal, again potentially causing engine damage.

3) As many of the drag racers on this board have posted, nitrous during launch is not always a good thing since it can be difficult to launch without spinning tires.

4) I also wanted a shift light so I can maintain consistant shift points.

With the FJO controller I can eliminate all of these probems. Since the FJO controller is aware of RPM it turns on the nitrous only after the lower limit has been reached. But here's the best part, if 2500 RPM is NOT safe for nitrous injection does that mean 2501 RPM is safe for a full shot? Probably not, so I programmed the controller to slowly ramp up the delivery of nitrous during the grey area between 2500 RPM and 3300 RPM. So at 2600 I'm only delivering 5% of the nitrous flow, at 2700 RMP about 25% as so on up to about 3300 RPM and above where 100% of the nitrous is injected. I also have it programmed to ramp DOWN the nitrous delivery as the RPMs get very high. (www.nutt.us/Mustang/stage1-RPM.jpg) I've set my engine cutoff at 6400 with my Predator tuner. So I set the nitrous to ramp down from 100% nitrous at 6300 RPM to 0% at 6350 RPM. So when the fuel is shut off at 6400 RPM the nitrous is safely turned off 50 RPM before that. I did have to bypass the ZEX electronics to make the solenoids pulse fast enough for the FJO controller.

To handle the problems of spinning your wheels during a nitrous assisted launch there are a couple of approaches I can take. The FJO controller has a first gear lockout so I can totally eliminate the delivery of nitrous until I am in second gear. Another way is to delay the delivery of nitrous until a certain RPM is reached or even for a certain time period. I can begin ramping up nitrous at mid RPMs, let's say starting with 1% at 3700 RPM and ramping up to 100% at 4000. This gives me a chance to get the wheels hooked up before nitrous is delivered. I can also delay the delivery by time, like delay nitrous for 1.5 seconds, also allowing me to get hooked up before nitrous is pumping. (www.nutt.us/Mustang/stage1-TIME.jpg

Since the FJO controller is programmed using a PC I decided to set up my PC in the car so I can easily make changes between 1/4 mile runs. I also mounted my Diablosport Predator next to it so I can make tune changes as well as logging engine data such as MAF, RPM, spark, etc and save this data in real time to the PC for later analysis. (www.nutt.us/Mustang/screen.jpg)

Eventually I will use the 2nd stage of the FJO controller to contol a second nitrous bottle giving me even more flexability delivering nitrous but for now I am using it to drive a STEALTH shift light. I made this from an ultra bright single LED. I just pull it our of the ceiling liner and BAM, instant stealth shift light. (www.nutt.us/Mustang/shiftlight.jpg www.nutt.us/Mustang/shiftlightin.jpg www.nutt.us/Mustang/shiftlightout.jpg) If you don't think an LED is bright enough you'd be wrong. Most LED have a brightness between 2 and 100 millicandellas. This LED is 18,000 millicandellas. It's bright enough so you get a spot on your eye for a few minutes if you look right at it for more than a second or two. Not only that, because of the way its mounted, it's barely out of your line of sight so your peripheral vision EASILY sees it when it comes on. This picture is not of the inside of my garage door, it's to show the placement of the shift light at the top of the picture. (www.nutt.us/Mustang/shiftlightview.jpg)

The actual unit is installed in the center console. This way I can easily access it to connect to my computer between runs. These two pictures show the FJO controller connected to the nitrous system and the computer. (www.nutt.us/Mustang/fjocontroller.jpg www.nutt.us/Mustang/controllertocomputer.jpg)
 

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Pretty sweet man...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
speco2005 said:
GREAT!!!!! I have a Zex kit and a predator. Would you be kind enough to give me the FJO part #? Thanks
Sure, it's called FJO Racing 2-stage progressive mini-controller. Part # KWS0022. You can get it for around $175.

A couple things I forgot to mention, with the ZEX, I had to open up the purple box and connect directly to the solenoids, bypassing the ZEX electronics because the solenoids would not pulse rapidly enough without connecting directly to them. You don't need the ZEX WOT sensor because the FJO has one, you just cut the wire to the ZEX WOT sensor and hook it to the FJO instead. Also I forgot to mention that the FJO (as well as most other aftermarket RPM driven products) does not seem to pick up the tach signal from the Mustang (I couldn't get it to work anyway). So you'll need a tach driver. I got mine from Ford Racing for about $60. It installs in about ten minutes, real easy. It puts out a tach signal the FJO can understand and it keeps you from having to dig into a fat wire harness to find the tach signal wire (that doesn't work).

www.fjoracing.com/products/2stageminicontroller/
www.ford-racing-parts.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=M-17361-A200
 

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5twenty, that is a pretty sweet setup. and i thought the jacobs was nice! neat idea on the shift light too! where did you get the LED for that? let us know what ets youre getting when you run it. (i know that may be awhile giving that it is december and all) one FJO controller.....now added to my mod list....:tongue
 

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Discussion Starter #6
GTNOS said:
neat idea on the shift light too! where did you get the LED for that?
Where else would you get a super bright LED? www.superbrightleds.com.

Isn't the internet wonderful?

P.S. Getting dynoed wednesday.
 

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cool, yes it is, and im SURE you will be posting dyno results....right? :winks
 

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Discussion Starter #9
teal9550 said:
any dyno results yet:sleeping:
Sorry, I think I posted the results in another thread. My latest dyno run was 352 RWHP and 409 ft/lb torque (She's real fine my 409). That was with a 100 shot nitrous. I'm about to go to 125.
 

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That setup is PIMP! Just think what long tubes and a couple more bolt ons will do! I'll bet it will run low 12s if you can hook it good.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
lostsk8r said:
whats the point of your phone being there between the vents, whats it doin
Uh, waiting for a call? That's where it goes, I can easily see who is calling when a call comes in as well as use it as hands-off speakerphone. Where do you put your phone?
 

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5twenty said:
Uh, waiting for a call? That's where it goes, I can easily see who is calling when a call comes in as well as use it as hands-off speakerphone. Where do you put your phone?
I have the same phone. How do you like it? How do you have it attached there on your dash. Do you have a recharger in the power outlet? If so, where did you get it?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ckp73 said:
I have the same phone. How do you like it? How do you have it attached there on your dash. Do you have a recharger in the power outlet? If so, where did you get it?
I found a plastic plug that goes into the 12 volt outlet, took out the electronics and glued a strong magnet to it. Then I glued a thin metal plate to the back of my phone. It just hovers a inch or so above the dash surface like it was meant to go there. No charger.
 

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5twenty said:
I found a plastic plug that goes into the 12 volt outlet, took out the electronics and glued a strong magnet to it. Then I glued a thin metal plate to the back of my phone. It just hovers a inch or so above the dash surface like it was meant to go there. No charger.
I see said the blind man. Thanks.
 

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Very well thought out system, very well written post......you are on top of your game my man. Bad Aasss.:thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Falcon_744 said:
What did you use to wrap the LED and the wiring so it is positionable, and where did your get it?
Heat shrink tubing available at most auto parts stores.

hogpowr said:
Very well thought out system, very well written post......you are on top of your game my man. Bad Aasss.:thumbsup
Thanks, Hogpowr. I appreciate your kind words.
 

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cleveland said:
http://snt-systems.com/temp/mustang/n2o_dyno_2.jpg

If I cant hook that torque on the track I will have to put that progressive controller to good use.

Anyways, which of these laptop mounts did you buy and can you take more pictures of the backside so I can see how it mounts to the floor?

http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?cgiurl=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.com%2Fws%2F&fkr=1&from=R8&satitle=laptop+mount&category0=

-Dan
Can you tell me more about the tune you are running (timing, air/fule etc.) and what shot of NOS you are running? I am looking at the NX 3Valve kit with and FJO mini-controller. I am trying to do it on a budget and don't want to have to go and get a custom tune done to be able to run the 100 shot. I am running now with the preditor 93 oct Steeda tune (don't know what the timing is on it).

I do remember it pinging on the way to the 93 oct fillup (only a mile drive) when I first loaded the tune so I am thinking it took a couple deg. off but am not sure.
 
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