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Discussion Starter #1
2014 Mustang GT, 5.0L Coyote, Manual, 102,250mi, I don't think the bottom end is damaged (yet) but there's no pressure in 2 of my cylinders and a loud almost inhumanly fast hand hammer hitting inside the passenger bank where one of the cylinders is screwed. I don't have the money to have a place open it up so I'm wondering if anyone could think what it could be... A valve spring, a lifter, a rocker, what? What is the weakest link in the heads, especially causing misfiring and no pressure...
 

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Well, 2 things you can do....1) pull the valve cover and look at the valve springs/rocker arms and 2) pull the spark plug and with one of those "hook it up to your smart phone cams" look inside the cylinder at the walls and valve itself.
 

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Well, 2 things you can do....1) pull the valve cover and look at the valve springs/rocker arms and 2) pull the spark plug and with one of those "hook it up to your smart phone cams" look inside the cylinder at the walls and valve itself.
Already did the spark plugs and swapped around the coils, issue remains, there is no compression (pressure, couldn't think of the word earlier) in cyl4 and 7. I don't have the tools to properly pull the heads off nor the money to get it done, was hoping for some insight...
 

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If you don't have the money to have Ford look at it, I would leave it be for now,the more you start it and run it the more damage you might cause,and the chance at a much bigger repair $$$$$$$$$$.Good luck and keep us posted, can't do much with out a tear down and have a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That's why I was hoping that somebody might be able to approximate what is actually broken so I know theoretically what I will need to speed up the process and save for when I do have somebody actually tear down the engine.
 

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That's why I was hoping that somebody might be able to approximate what is actually broken so I know theoretically what I will need to speed up the process and save for when I do have somebody actually tear down the engine.
Internet “Guessing“ is all you will get, and It’s likely to be inaccurate and disappointing. @5.0 Coyote gave you the best advice. If you can’t do even a minimal tear-down for inspection and diagnoses, it’s best to just park it. Leave it alone until you have the means.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, well, I'm not driving it unless I have a real emergency to do so like my wife taking her car to church and the hours I work, I just don't have the time even with the proper tools which I don't have...
 

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Already did the spark plugs and swapped around the coils, issue remains, there is no compression (pressure, couldn't think of the word earlier) in cyl4 and 7. I don't have the tools to properly pull the heads off nor the money to get it done, was hoping for some insight...
IMHO, with psi in the 2 cylinders, (I'm assuming you did a dry test only- ie no oil), it could either be rings or valves related....if you spray oil don those same cylinders and re-run the test, if the psi come up, it's most likely rings.... if the walls are scratched/scored (visually) then it could be broken rings.

So, long story short, you will at least know what the most probable issue is.... but regardless, looks like you will need to pull the heads and if it's rings, drop the pan as well to pull the pistons.
 
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Already did the spark plugs and swapped around the coils, issue remains, there is no compression (pressure, couldn't think of the word earlier) in cyl4 and 7. I don't have the tools to properly pull the heads off nor the money to get it done, was hoping for some insight...
The fact that you have 2 cylinders on opposite sides of the engine with no compression doesn't bode well as they are separated from each other on opposing banks. This means that the problem isn't confined to one head. Perhaps you have: bad piston rings, holes in those 2 pistons, broken valve springs, broken/bent valves, other valvetrain damage, a timing related issue, or 2 blown head gaskets(both would be unlikely unless the engine was badly overheated). If it's a high mileage engine then any of these are possible but the timing would be my first guess since that's what would affect both sides of the engine. Broken chain guides or bad tensioners possibly.
Starting it at all is not a good idea even briefly. When you have the $ have it towed to a well reviewed shop. It will likely be expensive and possibly even into the thousands whatever your issue is.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I totally forgot about this thread... Soooo...

Huge update...

$8k later, new engine... The ticking noise was actually the main bearing was not seated properly... They did not tear down the old engine so we don't know what was going on in the heads but they suspect it's one of the valves or something that has to do with it like the springs or the Rockers... The mechanic that I ultimately chose to get this all done suspects that because when I bought the car technically new from the dealership the car already had 1100 miles on it and he said they were probably 1100 miles hard driven because it was the floor model that everybody test drove. And therefore the rings were not seated properly the valves were not seated properly and so on and so on that it just got too much for the engine. Also he said that the issue I had with one of the spark plugs was definitely piston and slap, meaning there was even more issues than we were aware of because I had swapped the OEM spark plugs with the E3 spark plugs that have kind of a boxed in look and that was completely smashed as well... I asked the mechanic to let the person know whoever takes the block and tears it down if they could update me on what the actual issues were but I have not heard anything yet... Because there was no compression and the suspect is a valve it is not thought of that it is the gaskets or the rings...
 

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well, that kinda sucks but thanks for the update
 
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