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Discussion Starter #1
I'm now looking for a classic mustang coupe. I had been thinking of a fox body, but i like the 60s much better. My questions are:
what should i look for when assessing the rust? The first one i am going to look at has some rust bubbling and some surface rust. I don't have the ability to weld any new pannels, so i am wondering how i can tell if it is just surface rust or if it is rusting inside out?
And how hard is it to install the power brake setup? from what i've read, it seems pretty easy, but still unsure.
And last, how hard is it to steer w/o power steering? i mean, they are pretty light?

also, if anyone knows anyone w/ a classic mustang for sale in kansas city area, could you pm me?
 

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i think pecking it with a hammer or something will tell you if its solid or not, if its surface rust you can grind that away, also check if anyone did any quicky bondo work...you don't want a car thats bondo all the way around...o and btw, some of these mustangs did have power steering, its pretty straight, altho not as straight as a rack and pinion would be but it does great for its time. can i know what ur price range is? that will help me find ur classic stang but on the quick look i found this really cool find in ur area, i know its not a mustang but cougars are alot harder to find and still pretty cool:D
1970 Mercury Cougar
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks for the info! my price is around 5-6k. i'm really wanting a no rust/ little surface rust that runs well. and i want a 60's mustang coupe.
 

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k i can't seem to find any like u want, And those pictures the rust can easily be removed if u want to take it down to ur local body mechanic they should do that for almost nothing, just make sure the body guy can repaint that little area after fixing it. that rust is barely any at all it can simply be sanded away along w/ the bubbles (removing bubbles removes that little bit of paint tho)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks a lot shagadoodle! nice name, btw.
i can do all the body work, i just wasn't sure if the bubbling may be a sign it was comming through. the car has a 302 and a c4, but the tranny's shift kit is going out, according to cotsman transmissions. does that mean i should be able to just put a new shift kit in and it will make the shifts back to being fast?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
o yah, that one was the 6300 obo on kc craigslist if you saw it. mostly jsut needs a paint job and hopefully thats about it. don't know if that is a little high for that car though? no power anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well, just talked to the guy, there are three or four spots that have gone through. anyone know about how much it would cost to repair it?
 

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Personally I wouldn't pay a thousand bucks for that cancer case. Ok, maybe if it was a K code fastback. Buddy, If I were you I'd keep looking. Leave the rust repair to the experts and it gets expensive if you have to pay someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
yah, i'm kinda leaning away from it now. how hard is an inline 6 to v8 swap? i ahve a motor i am building right now, a 302.
 

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the car has a 302 and a c4, but the tranny's shift kit is going out, according to cotsman transmissions. does that mean i should be able to just put a new shift kit in and it will make the shifts back to being fast?
Shift kits don't go out, transmissions do. Who the heck are these people? Don't trust them either. Please heed my warning and do not buy this car. There's much better ones out there for that amount of money.
 

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press on the surface rust, and if you can indent it (past the paint) with your finger, then it's cancer. but small cancer spots like the ones in those pictures, are an easy repair. don't use normal bondo, use what they call "gorilla hair". it's bondo with fiberglass in it. you use the same method to put it on as normal bondo. and also, get you some primer that eliminates rust, and spray it all over the area once you've sanded it down. also, the main rust you want to watch out for, is the rust around the rear windshield. that 80% of the time requires cutting and welding. and as for the steering, it's not that bad, i mean when you're stopped, it's a little hesitant to turn, but nothing you can't handle. i'd stick with the steering it has for now, simply to save horsepower.
 

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i agree with the guy above me, don't buy any car for that ammount of money if it has that kind of stuff wrong with it. my cougar, i only paid 4900 for it, and it has absolutely no body rust at all -anywhere. now the floorpans are a different story, but those are a much easier and cheaper fix than body repair. and yeah, the shift kit isn't going out, that's the tranny. is the car even driveable?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
yah, its drivable but it shifts from 1st to second pretty slowly. i guess ill just wait a little longer. ther was one for 5500 on there the other day but i called too late and it had been sold.
 

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O wow lookin at the car it looks pretty good but 6300 is kinda expensive, 3 spots that have went through is pretty big but idk, imo i'd try offering him 3500 but no more im almost certain you can find better. o and are you wanting one of these cars for? fix up? fun? racing? if u don't mind me asking, also do u know the vin of this vehicle cause the bench seat is pretty unique
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yah, its in ok condition. he said no lower than 5800 and i was going to see what 4800 would do. it just had a 302 rebuilt and put in and flowmaster exhaust put on, but that is a little high. i'm calling a guy tomorrow about one off cars.com to see what its condition is.

the reason i'm wanting one is cause i want a classic car that is fun to drive and fun to work on. i'm building a 302 (well, will be once my casts are off my wrists) just for experience and figured why don't i put it in a classic stang instead of a fox? I have always loved mustangs and it is one of my dream cars i can afford. i will put a t5 in it probably the next summer or late this summer. and it will be a daily, kind of. i go with my sister to a lot of stuff and she usually drives.
 

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yah, i'm kinda leaning away from it now. how hard is an inline 6 to v8 swap? i ahve a motor i am building right now, a 302.
If its a really nice 6Cyl car it may be worth the swap. But if I were you I'd get a V-8 car to begin with and put your motor in that. There's a lot of work involved to do it properly. for the swap you need to replace the front spindles, steering, brakes, and rear end for starters which would best be obtained by buying a donor car. See what I mean?

Here's another thought. If you find a really nice clean 6cyl. car you could always do some mods to it to get more performance. They're pretty peppy cars and get better mileage that the 8.
 

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If its a really nice 6Cyl car it may be worth the swap. But if I were you I'd get a V-8 car to begin with and put your motor in that. There's a lot of work involved to do it properly. for the swap you need to replace the front spindles, steering, brakes, and rear end for starters which would best be obtained by buying a donor car. See what I mean?

Here's another thought. If you find a really nice clean 6cyl. car you could always do some mods to it to get more performance. They're pretty peppy cars and get better mileage that the 8.
Okay your better off swapping all that stuff but its not a NEED thing cause mine does perfect w/ the 4 lug set up but the one thing you NEED to change is the springs your car sags in the front when u swap to a v8 cause thos 6 cyl springs don't do very good for that v8. and you don't need the rear end either, its very benificials if you do those things but they aren't needed, which right now i really wish the guy who had my stang b4 did change all that stuff but it does perfectly fine w/ out it. (note: i think you need that stuff if its a big block v8)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yah, the one i was thinking of is sold already anyway. it was a pretty nice convertable on ebay. what questions should i ask when looking at one of these cars?
 

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Most people that have done the inline 6 to v8 swap say its around 3 grand.Id wait for a good one rust look for a cowl vent leak and rusted out floor pan.The cowl vent is the holes by the windshield where the wipers pour water in it if it comes out inside the car the cowl is rusted out.Manual steering is ok tell your parking in a tight space or parallel parking.
 
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