+1 What made u go with the steeda springs? from the pictures they don't look as low as the eiback ones.

peecmkr said:

I need some advise guys. I want to put the Steeda springs on my 06 Mustang GT. Some threads say I can get away with just the springs, others say I will also need a panhard bar, and still others say I will then need camber kits and control arms. It is a daily driver. I take it out to tracks on open days for fun. Not planning on doing any serious racing. I can get a good deal on the springs and a panhard bar. Please help!! What do I need?? Any advise or experience will be GREATLY appreciated.

Click to expand...

I have done a complete Steeda suspension setup. I did mine in stages and you can get away with just doing the springs and adjustable panhard bar. I ran for about 3 months without the camber kit with no visible inner tire wear. Steeda claims it's a 1" drop but I believe it to be a little more. Thr ride isn't too stiff for our pothole filled Montreal roads. I personally wouldn't go any lower unless you want to worry about speed bumps and driveway entrances. The only problem is with the stock rear shocks not being up to the task. On bridges or roads with pronounced expansion joints the rear end begins to porpoise . Some adjustable shock valving with either the Tokiko D-Spec kit (4 Shocks) or the QA1 rear shocks would be a real improvement. For track events the Steeda Adjustable Camber Kit would be great. It comes with 0 - 3 degree blocks in 0.5 degree increments. You can change from stock to track camber in about one half hour.

Before

After

Hey thump_rrr,

I saw on your website that you are using Steeda's adjustable 3rd link. Did you have to adjust the pinion angle when you lowered your car? I'm gonna put the Steeda sport springs in my car and was wondering if I would need that adjustability. I was going to get the BMR 3rd link (non-adjustable), but was thinking maybe I should spend a little extra and get the Steeda adjustable 3rd link. I already have the billet lower trailing arms, adj. panhard bar, panhard bar brace, and springs. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks Thump. Trey-don't want to go too low as this is a daily driver and I have heard that the eibach set is a little rough.

I like the Steeda 3rd link. There's a suggested lenght in the Steeda literature when used with the Steeda springs. I can't remember it offhand but it seems to work great. Mt next upgrade will be the lower control arm relocation brackets. Either the BMR's (weld in) or the CHE Perfoermance (bolt in)

craig66 said:

Hey thump_rrr,

I saw on your website that you are using Steeda's adjustable 3rd link. Did you have to adjust the pinion angle when you lowered your car? I'm gonna put the Steeda sport springs in my car and was wondering if I would need that adjustability. I was going to get the BMR 3rd link (non-adjustable), but was thinking maybe I should spend a little extra and get the Steeda adjustable 3rd link. I already have the billet lower trailing arms, adj. panhard bar, panhard bar brace, and springs. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Click to expand...

oh i hear ya, thats waht i'm looking for myself, I've had my last car dumped to much and its a headache to drive haha.

looks like the steeda is perfect.

peecmkr said:

Thanks Thump. Trey-don't want to go too low as this is a daily driver and I have heard that the eibach set is a little rough.

Click to expand...

I'm considering the rear shocks also. What setting for the QA1 shocks worked best for you? Thanks

thump_rrr said:

The only problem is with the stock rear shocks not being up to the task. On bridges or roads with pronounced expansion joints the rear end begins to porpoise . Some adjustable shock valving with either the Tokiko D-Spec kit (4 Shocks) or the QA1 rear shocks would be a real improvement. For track events the Steeda Adjustable Camber Kit would be great. It comes with 0 - 3 degree blocks in 0.5 degree increments. You can change from stock to track camber in about one half hour.

Click to expand...

My personal experience lowering a '06 GT using the Eibach Pro Kit an adj. panhard rod was NOT needed! Before installing your springs get a centering measurement then do it after installing your springs. You should find the rear did NOT move sideways after lowering. Now it it's off center prior to lowering then the adj panhard would be required to center. This may be why you are reading conflicting posts.

I'll be going with the Tokico D-Spec in the spring.

RPM said:

I'm considering the rear shocks also. What setting for the QA1 shocks worked best for you? Thanks

Click to expand...

i've got the eibach prokit and it drives nice...even on the roads we have here.....it is a 06 that was factory with 18's and it feels good.....