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Discussion Starter #1
So ive been to the track 3 times. each time my ET's have gone up it really sucks. i went from running consistent 9.3 (1/8th mile) to 9.4 and it has been going up since. im not sure why. im doing everything the same way as when i was getting the 9.3's I did a few things between trips to the strip.

first i put in new spark plugs
second removed my cat's

when i went after removing the cats i was running consistent 9.4's all day long. i was running 9.3s with cats. so i put the cats back on to see if it made a difference and i ran even slower today. i could hardly get 9.4s my goal is to get into the 8's as of right now and i thought id be able to do it after the new plugs and oil change. im having some serious traction problems. when i hit second gear my tires spin pretty bad and i cant seem to avoid it. I have an auto. let me know if you have any suggestions.
 

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Many variables to consider, however the biggest one this time of year is air temperature. Your times will increase the hotter the air temperature.

Others - track conditions can change, driving style (launch rpm changes, shift rpm changes, etc.), variances in tire pressure, etc. The list can go on. Best to keep a log documenting all the changes you make as a driver (launch and shift points), mechanical changes, and air temperature to see if what your doing or things you cannot control (air temp) is causing your increases in time. I believe you are experiencing the latter.
 
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So ive been to the track 3 times. each time my ET's have gone up it really sucks. i went from running consistent 9.3 (1/8th mile) to 9.4 and it has been going up since. im not sure why. im doing everything the same way as when i was getting the 9.3's I did a few things between trips to the strip.

first i put in new spark plugs
second removed my cat's

when i went after removing the cats i was running consistent 9.4's all day long. i was running 9.3s with cats. so i put the cats back on to see if it made a difference and i ran even slower today. i could hardly get 9.4s my goal is to get into the 8's as of right now and i thought id be able to do it after the new plugs and oil change. im having some serious traction problems. when i hit second gear my tires spin pretty bad and i cant seem to avoid it. I have an auto. let me know if you have any suggestions.
#1 New plugs & oil change will not give a you a performance gain of a 1/2 sec

#2 you admitting your lack traction if the main culprit for the slumping ET.....

I would recommend going to a drag radial or slicks....

#3 as mention earlier weather & track condition will play havoc with times......
 

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Discussion Starter #4
#1 New plugs & oil change will not give a you a performance gain of a 1/2 sec

#2 you admitting your lack traction if the main culprit for the slumping ET.....

I would recommend going to a drag radial or slicks....

#3 as mention earlier weather & track condition will play havoc with times......
the only reason i said anything about the plugs was because mine we so old my car was about to crap out ha. i thought getting fresh ones in would help my car run at least the same way as it was.

I know its the traction im 100% certain of it. my car hauls ass up until second then tires chirp like crazy. i tried to let off the gas when the gear change comes but nothing seems to be working. i refuse to be beat by a civic again.

do you guys think the subframes connectors will help i have a set im getting put in when the pay check comes around ha. i also bought some lowering springs which im thinking wont help crap. everything i hear says they will make me slower ha any opinions on this?

Thanks a lot guys i really appreciate all the help
 

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Discussion Starter #6
subframe connetors = Good :bigthumbsup

lowering springs = Bad :nono:
yeah thats what im thinking i think i can still send them back i just did know till it was to late. any thing else i should do. do you think ill get a noticeable difference with the connectors
 

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I run an 1/8 mile strip also. (Huntsville DrayWay, Alabama). I was in the 10's with very few mods (C&L intake,TB,tube,MAF and filter, I got 4.10's and a mixed up pipe system with a DS Predator programer.) I'm now running low 9's (9.2, 9.1 and I even got an 8.9 in Feb when it was really cold outside), Just because I put on M/T street/strip drag radails. Hey, If you got 1000hp you will just sit at the line if you can't get it to the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yeah i run mid 9s all day long but i cant seem to break any lower. i ran 1 9.3 but i am just unable to reach it again. im getting the subframes installed and hopefully it will help my traction problem
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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The subframes will help a tiny bit due to taking out the body flex. If the power going into twisting could be put to the rear, it could help.

If it's automatic, a better torque converter will make a night and day difference.
 
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yeah i run mid 9s all day long but i cant seem to break any lower. i ran 1 9.3 but i am just unable to reach it again. im getting the subframes installed and hopefully it will help my traction problem
The subframes will make a major difference.......:bigthumbsup
 

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i would but its an auto ive been tuning the shift times though
You should be shifting it manually.
I shift my AOD manually when I race it.

The stock AOD valve body is governed and generally enforces a shift even at WOT below 5500 or so RPM. If you have any mods to the motor that raised your power band you might not be hitting your peaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You should be shifting it manually.
I shift my AOD manually when I race it.

The stock AOD valve body is governed and generally enforces a shift even at WOT below 5500 or so RPM. If you have any mods to the motor that raised your power band you might not be hitting your peaks.
i actually have mine tuned to shift at 6800k at WOT i tried manually shifting a few times and was just going slower. i heard something about shifting from first to drive then back to first then into drive is that how you do it?
 

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i actually have mine tuned to shift at 6800k at WOT i tried manually shifting a few times and was just going slower. i heard something about shifting from first to drive then back to first then into drive is that how you do it?
Shift from first to second, when it shifts into second immediately shift back into first to hold the second gear shift in place. This shift pattern worked in my 80's AOD.
 
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Shift from first to second, when it shifts into second immediately shift back into first to hold the second gear shift in place. This shift pattern worked in my 80's AOD.

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO don't listen

That will fry the clutches in the tranny.......:happyhapp
 

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Shift from first to second, when it shifts into second immediately shift back into first to hold the second gear shift in place. This shift pattern worked in my 80's AOD.
:headscratch: pretty hard to manually out shift a computer controlled transmission. Reprogram and let the computer do the work.

THEFURYV8: IMO 6800 RPM seems like a really high shift point.
 

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NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO don't listen

That will fry the clutches in the tranny.......:happyhapp
No it won't that is the standard shift pattern for an AOD with a 3 dedent shifter.

Start in 1 (or low) when you want to shift to 2nd, click up, the trans shifts and you pull back to hold 2nd, then you click up once more to hit third. Otherwise, if you only click up once, you will be in drive and it will shift quickly into 3rd because of yoru R.

6800 is too high an RPM to be shifting your motor at IMO based on what it sounds like you have done to the motor. Shift it at 6, then at 6200, then at 6400 and see how it impacts your times. Ideally I believe you want to drop the shift where your RPM will be at the top of peak torque curve.
 
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No it won't that is the standard shift pattern for an AOD with a 3 dedent shifter.

Start in 1 (or low) when you want to shift to 2nd, click up, the trans shifts and you pull back to hold 2nd, then you click up once more to hit third. Otherwise, if you only click up once, you will be in drive and it will shift quickly into 3rd because of yoru R.

6800 is too high an RPM to be shifting your motor at IMO based on what it sounds like you have done to the motor. Shift it at 6, then at 6200, then at 6400 and see how it impacts your times. Ideally I believe you want to drop the shift where your RPM will be at the top of peak torque curve.
If you say so .....

now we know why i still have a 5sp....
 

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Discussion Starter #20
wow thanks for all the responses. Im going to get the subframe connectors in next week. im really excited to see how much of a difference they make. i also sent back the springs and will be getting upper and lower control arms in exchange. Im curious to know what you all think of those.

i meant 6500 not 6800 i double checked it and im actually going to lower it some too. i was also able to change the shift pressure and it made a world of difference. the car feels a lot more crisp now when it shifts. it grips really well on the street so far. im looking into getting some nitrous too probably by next month. im kind of on the war path at the moment. i got beat by 1 to many civics last week. there was 1 at the track running 7.5s (1/8th) and two that were running 8s which kept beating me. not a good time.
 
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