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Discussion Starter #1
It's a good day. I am finally pulling the trigger on a set of Kooks LT Headers. I've been scouring the internet for install tips and recommendations, but I still had a few questions:


  • Definitely use the OEM Gaskets on the headers, but what about the connection between the collector and the mid pipe? Is there a gasket there too.
  • Use locking header bolts? I plan on getting the Stage 8 Locking header bolts. Should I chase the threads on the cylinder head? Should I use anti-seize when installing the bolts?
  • I see that some people use the Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker for Exhaust Component. Where does that go? The FSM doesn't call for using any silicone gasket material anywhere in the exhaust.
  • Many people take this opportunity to replace the motor mounts? Good idea because you can't get to the mounts after the headers are installed?
  • Who has done this without removing the steering shaft? How do you do that? I feel like removing the steering shaft is something that I will screw up.
I'm lucky and will be using a friend's lift. He'll help me out, but only after watching me struggle for a bit.

This has been on my list for a long time, can't wait.
 

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most find that dropping the k member is a better way to install them, since you have the lift that will eliminate the motor mount issue
Next use copper gaskets, they compress and seal much better
You will need 02 sensor extensions....
Lastly, it's well worth the hassle...good luck
 

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  • Definitely use the OEM Gaskets on the headers, but what about the connection between the collector and the mid pipe? Is there a gasket there too.

  • Use locking header bolts? I plan on getting the Stage 8 Locking header bolts. Should I chase the threads on the cylinder head? Should I use anti-seize when installing the bolts?


  • Many people take this opportunity to replace the motor mounts? Good idea because you can't get to the mounts after the headers are installed?

  • Who has done this without removing the steering shaft? How do you do that? I feel like removing the steering shaft is something that I will screw up.
- No gasket between collector and mid pipe
- I ended up using the bolts from Kooks with locktite, was going to go with Stage 8 but some people said they are more of a PITA than they are worth - yet others swear by them.
- Don't remember using that
- I took the motor mounts completely out to install LTs so why not while you have them out anyway
- I removed the steering shaft, don't remember it being that hard besides just getting your hands where they need to be


Its been over 2 years since I've installed mine, but that's what I can remember
 

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Definitely use anti-sieze on the bolts going into head. Stage 8 are superb, pain but I will never use headers without them again. oem gaskets or Percys seal- for-good.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies. I'm pretty good at following directions and uninstalling/installing things...it just usually takes twice as long as it should.
 

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Don't be afraid of disconnecting the steering shaft, it's not difficult and as long as you don't turn the wheel or tires while you have it disconnected, it will be fine. The reason why some can do it w/out disconnecting the shaft and others cannot is based on the type of headers they have. Some can fit around the shaft better than others. The kooks will require you to disconnect the shaft. I have the Pypes LT's which are a clone of the kooks design and I found it was impossible to get them around the shaft without disconnecting it.

As for the permatex stuff, that would probably be used as a gasket sealer for the mating surface of the LT's to the block, but as long as you have a good gasket it's not needed. I haven't heard of anyone using it before. My LT's came with a gasket and that's all I used, no sealant.

+2 on just using the supplied bolts with some loctite, it'll hod just fine.
 

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I just put on a set of 1 3/4" kooks LT a couple months ago.

I used ramps and jackstands. Didn't drop K-member. Remove starter, dipstick, steering shaft (if you can't do this you shouldn't be doing the install) and motor mounts. It's not too hard of an install just takes some time and scratched hands/arms. I used Stage 8 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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Discussion Starter #10
I just put on a set of 1 3/4" kooks LT a couple months ago.

I used ramps and jackstands. Didn't drop K-member. Remove starter, dipstick, steering shaft (if you can't do this you shouldn't be doing the install) and motor mounts. It's not too hard of an install just takes some time and scratched hands/arms. I used Stage 8 bolts.

I did't say I couldn't remove the steering shaft, I just said I'd prefer not to ... I try to avoid encouraging Murphy's Law to prove true. I guess I'll just have to be careful and make sure nothing rotates while it's disconnected.

Did you remove the motor mount brackets or just the mounts? The FSM tells you to remove the whole bracket. Is that really necessary?
 

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I did't say I couldn't remove the steering shaft, I just said I'd prefer not to ... I try to avoid encouraging Murphy's Law to prove true. I guess I'll just have to be careful and make sure nothing rotates while it's disconnected.

Did you remove the motor mount brackets or just the mounts? The FSM tells you to remove the whole bracket. Is that really necessary?
If I remember correctly I just removed it from the rack and pinion and let it hang. As long as you don't turn the wheels you have nothing to worry about. It has a square interface so you have limited options when putting it back on. For me the wheels were on ramps so that wasn't an option for me.

I originally just removed the motor mount brackets that attach to the motor. When I went to set the motor back down the passenger side header was contacting the frame. There is so much play in the original motor mounts I decided to change them. I bought some prothane mounts and that solved the problem. I suggest buying new mounts and plan on changing them from the beginning. That would have saved me a lot of time.

Let me know if you have any more questions while it is still fairly fresh in my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
If I remember correctly I just removed it from the rack and pinion and let it hang.
That's that I was planning to do, instead of removing the whole shaft. Glad to hear that it's possible to get the headers in there with the steering shaft hanging

I bought some prothane mounts and that solved the problem. I suggest buying new mounts and plan on changing them from the beginning. That would have saved me a lot of time.
Thanks for making that decision for me. I had been wavering on whether or not I wanted to buy them. I'd hate to have everything installed and then wish that I had installed them when everything was apart. Even though I am only getting the 1-5/8" headers, I like to limit the potential interferences.

How much do the Prothane mounts actually raise the engine? (1/4-1/2 inch?) I have the FRPP strut tower brace. I hope everything still fits.
 

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That's that I was planning to do, instead of removing the whole shaft. Glad to hear that it's possible to get the headers in there with the steering shaft hanging



Thanks for making that decision for me. I had been wavering on whether or not I wanted to buy them. I'd hate to have everything installed and then wish that I had installed them when everything was apart. Even though I am only getting the 1-5/8" headers, I like to limit the potential interferences.

How much do the Prothane mounts actually raise the engine? (1/4-1/2 inch?) I have the FRPP strut tower brace. I hope everything still fits.
To be honest with you I'm not really sure. I don't think it raises it at all but I could be wrong. If you get the bullet prothane mounts you can always have them machined down to fit. They are designed for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
WildcatStang or anyone else who has replaced their exhaust,

What did you do for exhaust clamps between the mid-pipe and the intermediate (over-axle) pipes? The FSM says to replace them. The OEM ones are expensive. For some reason I have a 2.5in Walker Mega-Clamp. I'm tempted to pick up another one and save some cash.
 

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It's a good day. I am finally pulling the trigger on a set of Kooks LT Headers. I've been scouring the internet for install tips and recommendations
Stock up on patience and Band-Aids!:D

Definitely use the OEM Gaskets on the headers, but what about the connection between the collector and the mid pipe? Is there a gasket there too.
The header to midpipe connection is a ball collector, no gasket required.

Use locking header bolts? I plan on getting the Stage 8 Locking header bolts. Should I chase the threads on the cylinder head? Should I use anti-seize when installing the bolts?
I used stainless steel socket head cap screws and lock washers. I didn’t chase the threads and I didn’t use Anti-Sneeze. No issues after a couple thousand miles and dyno time.

I see that some people use the Permatex Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker for Exhaust Component. Where does that go? The FSM doesn't call for using any silicone gasket material anywhere in the exhaust.
I used this on the stock header gaskets (both sides), worked great.

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...r_Spray-A-Gasket_Hi-Temp_Adhesive_Sealant.htm

Many people take this opportunity to replace the motor mounts? Good idea because you can't get to the mounts after the headers are installed?
It's always a good idea to replace the junk stock motor mounts.:bigthumbsup

Who has done this without removing the steering shaft? How do you do that? I feel like removing the steering shaft is something that I will screw up.
I did not mess with the steering shaft using the below method (Kooks headers)

Remove both manifolds and motor mounts

Push motor toward PS of car.

Put DS header on.

Push motor to DS of car.

Put PS header on.

Center motor and install mounts
 

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Sorry if this is a dumb question, but how do you push the motor to the side? You have it on a lift or jack?
I had mine on a jack (under the oil pan), I just pushed it over.

I bench about 500# though...................just kidding!:hihi:
 

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I used a 2x4 to persuade to motor laterally once I had it jacked up and free of the motor mounts


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app
 

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I had mine on a jack (under the oil pan), I just pushed it over.

I bench about 500# though...................just kidding!:hihi:

just wanted to ensure that anyone that saw this knows to not put the jack directly against the pan. use a block of wood to spread the weight over the entire pan otherwise you will be buying another pan and possibly more
 

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WildcatStang or anyone else who has replaced their exhaust,

What did you do for exhaust clamps between the mid-pipe and the intermediate (over-axle) pipes? The FSM says to replace them. The OEM ones are expensive. For some reason I have a 2.5in Walker Mega-Clamp. I'm tempted to pick up another one and save some cash.
I'd have to look to be sure, but whatever I used was probably OEM or if not it came with my Kooks mid pipe, I didn't have to buy anything extra.
 
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