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Discussion Starter #1
I would like to relocate my battery to the rear of my 5.0 hatch. I know it needs to have a cut off switch.
What is the cheapest/easiest way to set this up?
Also, I want a kill switch, can this switch double as a kill switch?
 

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You have to have a sealed box bolted down with a vent to the outside of the car.

What do you mean by kill switch?

The cutoff switch has to be clearly visible and labeled on the back of the car.

Summit sells kits with the box, vent tube, cables and hardware. They also sell cutoff switches.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I want a hidden kill switch to prevent theft...
 

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Mine is behind my plate, so at the track I can take the plate off, and on the street the plate hides it. Just pop the hatch to get something, flip the switch, and you're good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
That sounds like a good plan. I wonder if there is a way to hook it up to my key-less entry system. It can send a couple aux signals...
 

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all you need to hide the switch behind the plate is 2-1" silicone sleeve and 2- 1 1/2" bolt to hold the plate..
available in Homedepot or ACE

:bigthumbsup
 

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To race, the kill switch has to be able to turned BY HAND from the outside of the car. No keyless remote

And the shut off switch must kill the entire electronic system. Fuel pump,alternator and everything else.
 
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Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.


with regard to the switch......

This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.
 

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Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.


with regard to the switch......

This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.

WTF I just drilled a BFH in my bumper cover for a keyed kill switch. This better be wrong!
 

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Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.


with regard to the switch......

This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.
IM going to kick someones @ss @ JEGS! The switch I have is approved by everyone but NHRA.

Is this one legal? It better mounts just like the other one FTS.

Flaming River FR1013 Flaming River Battery Kill Switch
 

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Do I need to use any kind of sealer around my cables and hold down studs, or are grommets accepted?

Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
The Summit Kit I bought said it is NHRA and IHRA accepted.
 

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WTF I just drilled a BFH in my bumper cover for a keyed kill switch. This better be wrong!
i believe keyed switches arnt allowed.

And as for the flaming river switch, its $85! I got my kill switch for like $20 from a local parts store. And its water proof! :hihi:
 

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i believe keyed switches arnt allowed.

And as for the flaming river switch, its $85! I got my kill switch for like $20 from a local parts store. And its water proof! :hihi:

Yeah mine was $20 too, but I now have a BFH to fill so its gonna have to be something similiar to what I have. The one I have had a list of accepted places just not NHRA I guess. Wait till I call Jegs tomorrow! They dont list who accepts theres had to look on Summit. Because Jegs switch is made by Flaming River. Lucky for them there battery boxes are NHRA approved. Why would you sell me a box that is but not a switch? wtf today is not my day!:?:
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.


with regard to the switch......

This solution takes a little work, but it solves the problem. Install the master cutoff inside the vehicle, positioned "sideways" so that the toggle moves forward and back. Drill a hole in the toggle handle, and attach a steel rod that will run out the back of the car, through a hole drilled completely through one tail light assembly. Have a spare tail light assembly on hand, so when you come home from the drags, you remove the rod and put the cherry tail light back in for street cruising. Next time you plan on going to the drag strip, swap lights and reinstall the rod. Since the drilled light is for the strip only, you can also have it marked "PUSH OFF" in big letters so the Tech Inspectors will think you're cool.

how about the rod just comes out next to the license plate... or under the taillights... I don't feel like drilling into my taillights and it would suck to swap out taillights every time I go to the track...
 
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how about the rod just comes out next to the license plate... or under the taillights... I don't feel like drilling into my taillights and it would suck to swap out taillights every time I go to the track...

you could also do that.......

what i do is i have a light that been drilled for the lever to pass though which is used only for the track.....

any other time cruise/car shows i reinstall the unblemished one......

WTF I just drilled a BFH in my bumper cover for a keyed kill switch. This better be wrong!
The "BIG" red key switches are not NHRA legal......
 

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You could do what I did. You can kind of see how theres room for the plate and the switch in my profile pictures. It passes tech. Just a little ugly thats all. Should work on all older foxes, not sure about the newer Mustangs. But I didnt want to drill too much. lol
 

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You could do what I did. You can kind of see how theres room for the plate and the switch in my profile pictures. It passes tech. Just a little ugly thats all. Should work on all older foxes, not sure about the newer Mustangs. But I didnt want to drill too much. lol
Same way I did mine.



I used a Moroso switch that's rated at 300 continuous amps. It was $62 but I didn't want to get something cheaper that may not be able to handle the amp load. I'd look into the amp rating of those $20 switches!
 
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