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Laloosh

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Is anybody here running a methanol injection set up on their lightly modded NA 5.0s? I have been running methanol for over 5 years on both of my past cars and I feel like its is a no brainer on this car. It will drastically lower intake temps and lower EGTS. I am going to look into this when my JLT intake finally gets here.

Tap the washer fluid and simply run -20 washer fluid which like like 20 percent methanol and 80 percent water. Smaller nozzle, like a do/cm 5 would be enough. It is not for power, it is for safty. If heat is really an issue with the number 8, then this will simply eliminate the problem. Also with our factory widebands a low meth mixture there is no reason to even change the tune. I am thinking of taping the throttlebody to intake coupler is simply taping one of the ports on the intake pipe. Should be able to do get this done for a little over 200 dollars all said and done.

What is the size of the coupler that attaches the intake to the throttle body? I feel like this will work perfect, simply cap the other two ports or run a dual nozzle set up, like two do/cm 3 and plug the last 1/8th npt hold with a regular plug from home depot.

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_...uct_info.php?cPath=209&products_id=1232&osCsid=e73c2519674285de00ac096b4ccb66c5
 
My opinion, better to use nitrous for the performance-to-cost gains.

My advice, ask any of the major race companies how they feel about meth injection on an N/A car as I doubt anyone here can accurately comment on your idea.

JPC, VMP, Lethal, Bama, BBR, WMS, so on.
 
Is anybody here running a methanol injection set up on their lightly modded NA 5.0s? I have been running methanol for over 5 years on both of my past cars and I feel like its is a no brainer on this car. It will drastically lower intake temps and lower EGTS. I am going to look into this when my JLT intake finally gets here.

Tap the washer fluid and simply run -20 washer fluid which like like 20 percent methanol and 80 percent water. Smaller nozzle, like a do/cm 5 would be enough. It is not for power, it is for safty. If heat is really an issue with the number 8, then this will simply eliminate the problem. Also with our factory widebands a low meth mixture there is no reason to even change the tune. I am thinking of taping the throttlebody to intake coupler is simply taping one of the ports on the intake pipe. Should be able to do get this done for a little over 200 dollars all said and done.

What is the size of the coupler that attaches the intake to the throttle body? I feel like this will work perfect, simply cap the other two ports or run a dual nozzle set up, like two do/cm 3 and plug the last 1/8th npt hold with a regular plug from home depot.

Water Injection Tap
Methanol eats away rubber seals that are not designed for contact with it and dissolves aluminum. Long term use of methanol is not a good idea. Water methanol mixtures are usually used to cool the intake charge and prevent detonation with high boot or nitrous applications. With nitrous,it makes a lot of sense,your not running it constantly so there should not be problems of damage to aluminum engine parts. Id be worried about running it constantly though. If your saying there is no need to change your tune,then Im assuming your not tuned in which case why worry about something like that. It MIGHT let you advance the timing more and get a little more power that way,but I would not want to be the guinea pig.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Meth only spays when you are floored. As for eating engine parts....ive been running it for over 5 years and never ate anything. Also keep in mind his isnt a 100 percent meth mixture it will be 50/50 meth water tops and usually just run on denatured alky or windshield washer fluid. Some of these race tunes ping on 93 octane to begin with so it willake that disappear along with drastically lowering egts. If anyone is drastically concerned you can simply run distilled water through a small do5 jet and be fine. Any nitrous guys have cyclinder distribution problem with these nitrous plates on the throttle body?
 
Why not just run some race gas to stave off any detonation issues? I have never seen anyone run Meth on a N/A car.

Still, curious to see what the result would be if you do it.

Mike
 
Not sure about watermeth injection. I drive my stang about once a week. I use Torco fuel additive to bring it up to roughly 100-103 octane depending on how full the tank is. I only put about 2000 miles a year on the car ( about 4k the first year) so I don't mind paying for the extra fuel cost. I run this on a 93 octane tune.
 
Why not just run some race gas to stave off any detonation issues? I have never seen anyone run Meth on a N/A car.

Still, curious to see what the result would be if you do it.

Mike
I'm curious also. I dont know if there will be much benefit. You'd probably do better with race gas.

Water/meth injection has a real benefit on forced induction. Compressing the charge air increases inlet temps which is why you'll typically find an intercooler on turbo and supercharged engines. Intercoolers, however, have the downside of pressure drop. At some point, increasing the size of an intercooler to reduce temps reaches a diminishing return on system efficiency. It would be so much better if you could spray some magical fluid into the air stream to drastically drop the temperature with no loss in pressure. That's where the water/meth mix comes in. The meth vaporizes at it hits the hot air drastically reducing the temperarure as the energy goes to the conversion of liquid to vapor.

On an NA car, the inlet temps are close to ambient. Unless it's a REAL hot day, you probably wont drop the inlet temp that much. And if you did, its not like you're getting MORE air, just cooler air...though, you might actually get more oxygen than without it as the meth combusts with the fuel....again, i'm kinda interested to know what would happen and if anyone has tried this.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Running race gas on a daily driver car that is slow is a little absurd imo.

As for meth, like i said, I do not plan to be using it for power gains, i plan on using it for safty. With meth, it only flows when the go pedal is on the carpet. It raises octane, it cools egts, and it cleans all the blow by gunk out of the TB/IM/valves.

I have used it on my two past cars which in fact were both turbocharged, however there is no reason why it cannot help a natural asirated engine the same way. IATs will drop, however they won't be picked up by the maf sensor as you should spray after it not before it. All the meth/alky/water will burn up during the combustion process and cool everything down. I will call CM or DO as i need to figure out what to use for an activation switch, I am simply used to running progressive flow based off boost or a simple boost switch, however this one might need to be tapped into the throttle position sensor. Anything over say 70, it flows.

I believe the TB is 83mm, so that 3 inch meth adapter should be almost perfect and work perfect right between the throttle body and the intake pipe.
 
Just a race gas mix, not pure race gas. Enough to get the octane rating up to the point of perpetually being safe. There is also Torco. Of course, neither of these is cheap.

Mike
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Like I said, I don't plan on running race gas unless there is a some sort of nitrous or FI on this car. Did you run a mix at the track or straight pump gas?

As for torco, it works, however it turns everything inside orange. Tried it a couple of times, i believe it was like 120 shipped for 6 bottles.....denatured alky from home depot is like 15 bucks for a gallon, mix it 50/50, it will last you months unless you live at redline. Small do5 nozzle, would mean that whenever your are floored you are flowing around 500cc per minute if i rember correctly. Washer fluid tank is probably 1.5 gallons.
 
Like I said, I don't plan on running race gas unless there is a some sort of nitrous or FI on this car. Did you run a mix at the track or straight pump gas?
I run straight pump gas. I want the car as close as possible to street trim when I am racing. Obviously, it is not practical to run around on the street with slicks...but I don't want to run more timing at the track and get away with it by running race gas. To me, that is almost like cheating. LOL.

Mike
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Being that you have some experience with working on your tune, how much autority does the stock ecu have when it comes to adding/back offing timing. What is the cap in either direction? If knock is detected, what is the drop?
 
Running race gas on a daily driver car that is slow is a little absurd imo.

As for meth, like i said, I do not plan to be using it for power gains, i plan on using it for safty. With meth, it only flows when the go pedal is on the carpet. It raises octane, it cools egts, and it cleans all the blow by gunk out of the TB/IM/valves.

I have used it on my two past cars which in fact were both turbocharged, however there is no reason why it cannot help a natural asirated engine the same way. IATs will drop, however they won't be picked up by the maf sensor as you should spray after it not before it. All the meth/alky/water will burn up during the combustion process and cool everything down. I will call CM or DO as i need to figure out what to use for an activation switch, I am simply used to running progressive flow based off boost or a simple boost switch, however this one might need to be tapped into the throttle position sensor. Anything over say 70, it flows.

I believe the TB is 83mm, so that 3 inch meth adapter should be almost perfect and work perfect right between the throttle body and the intake pipe.
Well, it's definitely not a real expensive mod and there is a chance it will provide some good...how much good is the question.

Do you have a way to log egts and iat so you can see the difference before and after? Are you eventaully planning to install an agressive tune to take advantage of this mod? It might be a good idea to pick up a procal or something similar.
 
This topic popped into my head after a 85+ degree day at the drag strip this past weekend. From what I've witnessed, these new 5.0L's run hot and hold the heat for a long time (especially on a hot day), they run great when hot but they run even better when they're cooler.

I would be interested to know more about how this system works and what difference it would/could make in lowering the IAT. My car is N/A and not tuned and I currently have no interest in doing either, I'm just looking for a way to get the car to run cooler/lower the IAT. I could care less about increasing the octane level so I would probably run washer fluid, rather than the "boost juice" that's out there, for the lower alcohol concentration.

I guess my primary question would be, what purposes do the alcohol and water serve?

I would assume the water cools and the alcohol increases octane but am curious as to whether the alcohol acts as a cooling agent as well?

Any information on this topic would be greatly appreciated, thank you.
 
IATs will drop, however they won't be picked up by the maf sensor as you should spray after it not before it.
Just thought of something, with how computer-controlled these engines are, would a lower IAT even provide a benefit if the MAF can't sense it and relay the info to the PCM so it can adjust?
 
Disregard all my earlier questions, Snow Performance, a little more thought, and the internet took care of them.

It does seem like it would be beneficial on a N/A car but two things made me decide against it. One of the techs at my dealership expressed concern over the coating on the TB butterflies (reason we can't clean them) and the fact that aluminum (which our engines are from just about top-to-bottom) is the metal most prone to the corrosive properties of methanol. I also spoke to someone that knows a bunch about forced induction, nitrous, etc. last night that I trust and at first he thought it was a great idea but when told I him that the engine was mostly aluminum he said not to do it. I had only planned to run it at the track (3-4 times a year) in a certain rpm range but at this point I'm just not willing to run an aluminum-corroding agent through an aluminum engine, even at a minimal level/frequency. He did suggest nitrous as a safe alternative and I think I may look into that. If I could run a small enough shot to where I wouldn't have to get a tune, swap in cooler plugs, etc. and it provided a worth-while cooling effect on the intake air temps, I'd go for it. I will say that a couple years down the road if I hear/read about people using methanol injection on these new 5.0L engines for an extended amount of time without any adverse affects I would reconsider it if I don't already have something in place to accomplish the cooling, nitrous, ice box, etc.
 
looks like you did your homework. I was unaware that NOS will lower your engine temps. :shrug

If you find a kit thats small enough to do what you say you should post it. if its not too costly I think it'd be a good alternative. Lowering Temps while adding a bit more power.... cant do any better than that.
 
looks like you did your homework. I was unaware that NOS will lower your engine temps. :shrug

If you find a kit thats small enough to do what you say you should post it. if its not too costly I think it'd be a good alternative. Lowering Temps while adding a bit more power.... cant do any better than that.

Nitrous will lower intake air temps, not engine coolant temps. Cars that run on alcohol, however, do indeed run cooler overall than gas powered cars.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Meth injection will not be corrosive to any part of the engine. Your two buddies are simply misinformed. I have over 100k miles of meth injection under my belt and never had anything corrode.

I don't understand why people compare nitrous to meth. Anyone who tells you nitrous is safer needs to get their head examined IMO lol
 
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