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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is obviously not going to be a dedicated drag car.
Daily driver with the power to (assuming perfect shifts and perfect start) do a mid high 9 1/4 mile.
I enjoy carving up the twisties so ill be throwing in a suspension kit. Need advice here since this will be dual purpose.

So basicly im looking for advice on what to get/aim for.

i know some guys are pushing 700+hp on stock internals on this thing but...how safe is it?
I know going with a c4 will yield some much better results at the strip but....no fun to drive and this is like i said a daily driver.

Probably going to want a second set of wheels/tire for the odd day at the strip
Thinking i might want to change the original wheels/tires on my brembo package for some lightweight 18s for daily driving/occasional track day

Would enjoy the possibility to run a SC kit that has the potential to push MUCH more power then 700 with simple changes. When the motor starts to go or self destructs going for a 351 stroker kit with forged internals would be my choice wich should allow for much more boost?

basicly if im building the motor i wanna do it for some REAL gains.

i want to wait till next summer for the major power upgrades.
Currently have a 3" magnaflow competition catback airaid CAI and bama tuned sctx3.
i need suggestions on headers/x-pipe as these are good cheap power adders that will help tremendously once the SC kit gets thrown on.

Will need a new clutch kit for sure again advice is needed/welcome

so far im thinking something along the lines of: kenne bell SC kit with a higher displacement SC and some diff pulleys.
frpp suspension kit
no idea what to get for the rest really
aluminum driveshaft.....How much power can they take? are they really worth it?
Would it be worth it to have a second set of calipers/rotors to put some skinnies in the front for the drag strip since i have the brembo package?


Any ideas/insight on such a build is welcome.


(sorry for the long post :p)
 

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FWIW, the trickiest part of your endeavour will be getting the tires to hook to make <10s. (IMO) You'd be hard-pressed to get anywhere near that without proper drag slicks and I can't see the AB police being to keen on that. So plan on swapping rears on track days. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
FWIW, the trickiest part of your endeavour will be getting the tires to hook to make <10s. (IMO) You'd be hard-pressed to get anywhere near that without proper drag slicks and I can't see the AB police being to keen on that. So plan on swapping rears on track days. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
ya already mentioned a set of wheels and slicks for the strip (and asked about the value of skinny fronts...since its not a bolt on fit for me with the brembos)
 

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Boy, not to be skeptical but you have yourself quite a challenge there. A car that fast as a daily driver ? Not saying it can't be done but I have never seen one .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Boy, not to be skeptical but you have yourself quite a challenge there. A car that fast as a daily driver ? Not saying it can't be done but I have never seen one .
its not all that fast really. considering evolution has a stock internal whipple pushing 12 psi doing high 9s. course hes auto but im sure with some play on the gearing and crazy fast shifts it would be possible to do the same without going for all that much more power. (and tamer power is just a tune and pulley change away really)
 

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A mid 9 second car... not all that fast ? Ill say no more.
 

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Let’s call this the basic rules of a motorized vehicle considered a Daily Driver (DD)

Rule One…
Daily Driver is a motorized vehicle that must be registered, tagged and insured… passes an emission test / state inspection, whatever you have locally where the car is registered, tagged and insured…
And my be inspected at the track prior/post of setting DD ET for the motorized vehicle State, County and City motorized vehicle laws…
DOT Drag Radials will not pass most state inspections...
Explanation of rule one…
If not we could consider a top fueler a daily drive because it is driven sometime three days a week, more during test days… And yes they drive it to work…

Rule Two…
The car must be driven legally to the track when times are established for DD time…
Any alterations or part swaps done at the track prior to ET will void the DD times…

Rule Three…
If motorized vehicle passes rules one and two, parts may be swapped at the track before ET is set and motorized vehicle class changed to altered DD and it is no longer a “DD”

“DD” Mid 9s
750+ HP at rear wheels on a 3600 pound car, A suspension setup for drag racing and a roll cage… this can be done on a DD, most of the site sponsors sell all of this stuff too…

Now to get down the track in the mid 9 style…
12 inch wide slicks, Wheelie bar… should I go on? No need to... This is no longer a DD…
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·

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Read my meaasage. I said " I HAVE NEVER SEEN ONE."
 
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My best advice would be to pick up some mustang magazines and read what others have done to accomplish similar goals. You have much research in front of you, much more than can be learned from your very first thread on AFM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Let’s call this the basic rules of a motorized vehicle considered a Daily Driver (DD)

Rule One…
Daily Driver is a motorized vehicle that must be registered, tagged and insured… passes an emission test / state inspection, whatever you have locally where the car is registered, tagged and insured…
And my be inspected at the track prior/post of setting DD ET for the motorized vehicle State, County and City motorized vehicle laws…
Explanation of rule one…
If not we could consider a top fueler a daily drive because it is driven sometime three days a week, more during test days… And yes they drive it to work…

Rule Two…
The car must be driven legally to the track when times are established for DD time…
Any altercations or part swaps done at the track prior to ET will void the DD times…

Rule Three…
If motorized vehicle passes rules one and two, parts may be swapped at the track before ET is set and motorized vehicle class changed to altered DD and it is no longer a “DD”

“DD” Mid 9s
750+ HP at rear wheels on a 3600 pound car, A suspension setup for drag racing and a roll cage… this can be done on a DD, most of the site sponsors sell all of this stuff too…

Now to get down the track in the mid 9 style…
12 inch wide slicks, Wheelie bar… should I go on? No need to... This is no longer a DD…

@ Darufe and randezz11.... Do you own one or just seen one?
ok lemme give you my definition of a DD.
i drive it to work dont care about emissions laws it needs to "look" like the average joes somewhat moded mustang.
that said evo is running under 9 with no wheelie bars or parachutes.
swapping out a set of wheels and removing exess weight for a day at the strip when needed still TO ME is a daily driver.
this is not for any officialy sanctioned racing its a F'in TOY to drive around and mess around at track days and shits n giggles at a 1/4 mile

now if anyone has useful info?
as in SC kit recommendations exhausts suspension setups that can be adjusted between driving to work racing around a circuit and doing a 1/4 mile run.
wheel recommendations for drag and lightweight 18 inch wheel setups for amateur road race/driving setup (keep in mind im stuck with the brembo kit so not all 18s fit).
insight on alu driveshaft as in is it recommended with 800+hp
quality clutch kits
etc.

"our site sponsors carry all this" is a no brainer. i need pros and cons on kits good weight saving tips, should i wait for a stroker kit before i SC and go for 20-30pnds of boost. SC or TT? i would assume drivability on a TT mustang would be....well inexistant really...

If youre gonna post something like our previous poster here......or OMG thats gonna cost alot of money...just dont post. if i didnt have the money for it i wouldnt be planning a build for it.

serious answers plz.


i know thats alot of info im looking for but quite frankly after months of looking left and right and getting very little info on half of nothing i figured id ask the pros.
being in canada its not like i can walk up to a decent tuning shop. and i cant cross the border so im counting on USA mustang owners knowledge. Also considering we have site sponsors and tuners someone is bound to have some advice on this. Course i could make 25 diff threads about little questions but really thats innefecient and annoying for both the writer and the readers.
 

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evo? who is evo?...
OK to your rule of what a DD is here
Consider a top fueler a daily drive because it is driven sometime three days a week, more during test days… And yes they drive it to work…
Wow what an ID10T
 

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under 10 is fast but not THAT fast. under 8 is F****** fast
You're out of your G-D mind. For a daily driven street, car? You can bet that even a 10 second car is actually overkill. Now if you're talking a track-only car, then sure, 9 seconds isn't all that fast.

Getting back to your main questions, I have a few of my own. First, what about all the legal stuff, like inspections and insurance? In the US, it really differs by state, where some states like Florida pretty much let anything fly, whereas states like California are stupid harsh on modified cars. Which is a major reason why I'd never want to live in CA.

Anyway, the biggest thing you are neglecting is reliability. This is where the OEMs have a major advantage over the vast majority of tuner companies out there. So the question is--how much do you drive your car in a given year? Is it something where you only put on say 5k miles/yr (~8000 km/yr)? Or more like 14k miles (22.5k km)? It's easy to make cars go fast, but it's very hard to make them last. You need to do your homework with regard to engine internals, oil cooling/supply, and coolant capacity. IMO, you would have to pretty much rebuild the engine in your car if you want a car that runs in the 9s and is expected to drive like a regular mustang. Doing this right will not be cheap or easy, especially since people can't even seem to get a basic tune right, much less develop something that makes double the power with stock levels of reliabilty.

Oh and if you're going to run 9's, are you going to keep the car completely stock otherwise? Functioning A/C, full interior? What about a cage? What about a chute? I know there are rules for this sort of thing in the US and I know that at a certain time you need to add various safety equipment. But I don't know the specifics as I'm more of a road course guy.


With the money you'd spend and the compromises you'd have to make, I'd rather have a ZR1 or even a GTR. Not that they would run 9's, but with far fewer mods and compromises than you would need for the mustang, they wouldn't be all that far away from it either. Track cars should be just that, IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
as far as inspections and insurance...not a problem at all. no inspections to pass no emissions to pass unless.
like i said if evolution performance can pull it off on a darn close to stock 2011 gt auto with 12 psi of boost....it cant be THAT far fetched.
(stock internals whipple SC kit drag radials torque converter i believe a driveshaft and a few other minor mods.no parachute no wheelie bars)
id be happy with 9.9 really. my big issue is not ditching the MT for a AT i refuse to drive an AT sportscar.

as far as reliability goes....i dont think 12psi is all that bad. idealy forged pistons and rods should go in but if youre gonna do that why build for 12 psi? if youre gonna get forged low comp pistons might as well build for 20+ psi once you crack her open the price difference is minimal. adjust CR accordingly. And if youre gonna do that for not much more (if wiseco can get off their ass and release it) you might as well go for the 351ci stroker kit for the coyote.

this is where i have a concern. just how long can you "expect" 12psi to last on an otherwise stock motor. A rebuild is inevitable. The next question becomes hmmmmmmmmmmm well if im gonna rebuild next year i might as well get a sc kit thats pretty much ready to handle 20+ pnds of boost (injectors pump etc) when you put in a clutch kit...for the price diff between one that can take 600pnds of torque and one that can take 800....guess what goes in.

Now if u can get a decent lifespan on 12pnds of boost without a complete engine rebuild.....might as well save yourself a good amount of thousands of dollars and just go with that.

Suspension? obviously would need a fully adjustable kit to be usable in different situations. what should i be looking for.

wheels.....i NEED some drag radials and a very wide rear wheel. whats the average gain on going from a standard sized front wheel to a skinny for the strip? its all a question of how many tenths can u shave for how much money. if youre already pushing 750-800hp the amount of money invested in a motor to gain a few tenths becomes astronomical.

im sure im missing out on a bunch of more minor mods that can shave off be it a tenth. a tenth here and there adds up.

As far as a zr1 or gtr goes...ya id love that but youre talking well over 100k just for the base car(canada sucks even my mustang was 50k)....that still needs a vast amount of money invested to get anywhere near a 3 digit 1/4mile time.

and as a side note...10 seconds for the street isnt complete overkill considering a bone stock sport bike is a low 10 sometimes high 9 1/4mile...and i considered all my sportbikes too damn slow even on the street :p hehehe
 

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as far as inspections and insurance...not a problem at all. no inspections to pass no emissions to pass unless.
like i said if evolution performance can pull it off on a darn close to stock 2011 gt auto with 12 psi of boost....it cant be THAT far fetched.
(stock internals whipple SC kit drag radials torque converter i believe a driveshaft and a few other minor mods.no parachute no wheelie bars)
id be happy with 9.9 really. my big issue is not ditching the MT for a AT i refuse to drive an AT sportscar.
What you seem to not be catching on to is that anyone can make a fast car. And especially with boost and in the quarter mile. And I went on their website--I had never heard of them before (which doesn't mean much), but it appears they are fairly close to me. Those guys basically threw on a blower and had a tune done. But their car is also a modified car with an automatic. Many of the really fast cars out there run an automatic and those modded for the strip really aren't that friendly to drive on the street. You can beat on a car only so much before you have a problem with it, and this is even more true when it comes to something with aftermarket forced induction.

Does their car even have an oil cooler on it? If you read anything about the development of the Coyote motor, one of the big places they cheaped out was a lack of oil cooler. This isn't really a big problem for a stock car, but if I'm running a bunch of boost, you think the oil is going to really stay at the same temp as stock?

as far as reliability goes....i dont think 12psi is all that bad. idealy forged pistons and rods should go in but if youre gonna do that why build for 12 psi? if youre gonna get forged low comp pistons might as well build for 20+ psi once you crack her open the price difference is minimal. adjust CR accordingly. And if youre gonna do that for not much more (if wiseco can get off their ass and release it) you might as well go for the 351ci stroker kit for the coyote.
12 psi isn't the problem in and of itself. The problem is the motor and what it can take. Stock? 12 psi is stupid high with the CR that the stock coyote runs. And the coyote isn't direct injected, which would make that much boost just a little more acceptable. I think you're also missing some of the point in building a reliable street engine. You may build a car capable of holding 25 psi, but if you run 12 psi, that car should never give you a problem, assuming the tuning is done correctly. Why put 25 psi on a car built for 25 psi that you will be running daily?

just how long can you "expect" 12psi to last on an otherwise stock motor. A rebuild is inevitable. The next question becomes hmmmmmmmmmmm well if im gonna rebuild next year i might as well get a sc kit thats pretty much ready to handle 20+ pnds of boost (injectors pump etc) when you put in a clutch kit...for the price diff between one that can take 600pnds of torque and one that can take 800....guess what goes in.
The problem is most people really don't have much experience with the coyote motor. No one seems to really know what the car can handle. But again, if you read about the development of the coyote, you'd know that with that level of boost, you would simply be better off rebuilding the engine. If I'm going to spend the money on a blower and a tune, what's an extra few grand to make sure the motor can handle it? I hate when people cheap out on modding their cars.

Suspension? obviously would need a fully adjustable kit to be usable in different situations. what should i be looking for.
What are you looking for in a suspension? A drag setup is likely very different from a street setup which will be different from a road course setup.

As far as a zr1 or gtr goes...ya id love that but youre talking well over 100k just for the base car(canada sucks even my mustang was 50k)....that still needs a vast amount of money invested to get anywhere near a 3 digit 1/4mile time.
Well for the price of doing the GT right, you're knocking on the door of a used one of these at least. Especially once you start talking about suspension and other non-engine stuff. And those cars are built for FI directly from the factory. A stock GT really isn't. And at this point, it seems like building this engine is a crap shoot with reliabilty.

Whay have you not emailed or called evolution about their car as you seem very interested in it? Also, is this the first car you've ever doen serious work to? I can tell you from my experience that whatever you do, don't cheap out on it. If you can't afford to do a 9 second street car the right way, don't do it at all.
 

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You can run skinnies over the brembo's so don't worry about that. You can run over 700 on the stock block but durability may be a question. I've had mine for 3500 miles now and I stay on the throttle always.

Do the suspension right and possibly go with a anti-roll bar set up vs a traditional panhard bar and 3rd member brace.

Plan on building the rear, fortifying the transmission, and learn how to drive (if that's an issue). You should make it there on any of the current power adders but personally I would look at turbos or a centri as you have better streetability. Plus the majority of FI broken cars I know of are PD blowers. Not a knock just an observation.

Finally get a NHRA rule book and be ready for all the things it takes to legally run 9.99 or faster. GL and keep us posted. I plan on having my 9 second time slip very soon.
 

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A 9 second car that can take corners. Not even ferrari has something close to that. Good luck with your dream

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What you seem to not be catching on to is that anyone can make a fast car. And especially with boost and in the quarter mile. And I went on their website--I had never heard of them before (which doesn't mean much), but it appears they are fairly close to me. Those guys basically threw on a blower and had a tune done. But their car is also a modified car with an automatic. Many of the really fast cars out there run an automatic and those modded for the strip really aren't that friendly to drive on the street. You can beat on a car only so much before you have a problem with it, and this is even more true when it comes to something with aftermarket forced induction.

Does their car even have an oil cooler on it? If you read anything about the development of the Coyote motor, one of the big places they cheaped out was a lack of oil cooler. This isn't really a big problem for a stock car, but if I'm running a bunch of boost, you think the oil is going to really stay at the same temp as stock?

12 psi isn't the problem in and of itself. The problem is the motor and what it can take. Stock? 12 psi is stupid high with the CR that the stock coyote runs. And the coyote isn't direct injected, which would make that much boost just a little more acceptable. I think you're also missing some of the point in building a reliable street engine. You may build a car capable of holding 25 psi, but if you run 12 psi, that car should never give you a problem, assuming the tuning is done correctly. Why put 25 psi on a car built for 25 psi that you will be running daily?

The problem is most people really don't have much experience with the coyote motor. No one seems to really know what the car can handle. But again, if you read about the development of the coyote, you'd know that with that level of boost, you would simply be better off rebuilding the engine. If I'm going to spend the money on a blower and a tune, what's an extra few grand to make sure the motor can handle it? I hate when people cheap out on modding their cars.

What are you looking for in a suspension? A drag setup is likely very different from a street setup which will be different from a road course setup.

Well for the price of doing the GT right, you're knocking on the door of a used one of these at least. Especially once you start talking about suspension and other non-engine stuff. And those cars are built for FI directly from the factory. A stock GT really isn't. And at this point, it seems like building this engine is a crap shoot with reliabilty.

Whay have you not emailed or called evolution about their car as you seem very interested in it? Also, is this the first car you've ever doen serious work to? I can tell you from my experience that whatever you do, don't cheap out on it. If you can't afford to do a 9 second street car the right way, don't do it at all.
Dont get me wrong just cuz you build it for say 24 psi doesnt mean you have to push 24 on the street. my point was simply if you rebuild the motor for a few grand...why cheap out and then slap yourself for not getting a bit more...cuz now getting a bit more = complete rebuild AGAIN.

I dont think its a very far fetch with the multiple maps to have a map set for lower boost setups and have a diff pully?
Ive emailed evolution with no reply (that or my stupid hotmail junked it and i never noticed.)
i'm also looking into lethal performance's 10.20 second MT stock internal stock tranny car. using radials....im no expert but im sure loosing some weight throwing on slicks adding a bit of power maybe flywheel, driveshaft and some other minor mods should get me pretty darn close to my goal....

As far as the engine rebuild tho....id really like to build for the wiseco stroker kit when it comes out. if im spending that kinda money on building the motor id rather spend a little more and work with 351ci. then i dont need ridiculous amounts of boost to reach <10

Suspension i have to admit im a complete noob to drag racing suspension setups.
all i know is the setup for putting the most power to the rear asap is completely diff from a setup that can actualy take curves.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You can run skinnies over the brembo's so don't worry about that. You can run over 700 on the stock block but durability may be a question. I've had mine for 3500 miles now and I stay on the throttle always.

Do the suspension right and possibly go with a anti-roll bar set up vs a traditional panhard bar and 3rd member brace.

Plan on building the rear, fortifying the transmission, and learn how to drive (if that's an issue). You should make it there on any of the current power adders but personally I would look at turbos or a centri as you have better streetability. Plus the majority of FI broken cars I know of are PD blowers. Not a knock just an observation.

Finally get a NHRA rule book and be ready for all the things it takes to legally run 9.99 or faster. GL and keep us posted. I plan on having my 9 second time slip very soon.
thanks man :)
how much are you running on the 1/4 with your setup??
 
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