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so about a month or so ago i changed the head gaskets on my 91 fox 5.0. I did everything as i was suppose to as i had a repair book by my side as well as a few knowledgable friends. the thing that i thought was wrong were the intake gaskets them self since i have a cobra intake on it but i believe the stock heads and the gaskets are a little difference. so i got the right gaskets and put them on with all the right torque specs.

The driver side head gasket was blown out at the 8th cylinder. so with everything back together i thought there would not be anymore milky oil but there still is. ive changed the oil a couple times now to see if it was just extra left in there or perhaps a little condensation but its just too milky to be either of those.

one of my friends neighbor said that it might be my timing cover, he said that they can get little holes in which leak into the engine

any idea if this acutally happens or if you think its something else?
 
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did you use thread sealant (teflon paste ) on the bolts that past through the water jacket......
 

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did you use thread sealant (teflon paste ) on the bolts that past through the water jacket......
That will get you everytime if you skip this step! Luckily, all you have to do is remove the valve covers to remedy this situation. And change the oil and filter. And while your at it, don't forget about the intake manifold bolts at the water jackets.
 

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That'd be the first thing I'd suspect, the head bolts extend into water jackets and require sealer.
 

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If I remember right, your lower head bolts by the headers are the ones that will need the teflon paste...the ones under ur valve covers will need 30 weight oil....If you have any questions on which bolts gets what on it, take a screwdriver and place it into bolt hole...if the depth is deep, use the teflon, if the bolt hole is shallow, use oil. My advice is if you do this, go back and re torque them all......all over again, and follow the tightening pattern of course.
 

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We or whoever is in control of the thread about the head/cam swap "how to" should add that little tid bit in there about the thread sealer. I am getting ready to do the head gaskets in about a week. (arp studs arrive this thurs) but I probally would have forgotton about that if I haddent read this thread. But I am only semi mechanically inclined.. I would have said crap, I forgot.
 

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I use the permatex thread sealant on any head gasket or head install. Never had bolt seapage that way.
 

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I use the permatex thread sealant on any head gasket or head install. Never had bolt seapage that way.
+1 with the permatex
 
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We or whoever is in control of the thread about the head/cam swap "how to" should add that little tid bit in there about the thread sealer. I am getting ready to do the head gaskets in about a week. (arp studs arrive this thurs) but I probally would have forgotton about that if I haddent read this thread. But I am only semi mechanically inclined.. I would have said crap, I forgot.

if you have a haynes or chilton manual it usually spelled out in those

also it is in the installation instructions that come with new heads....
 

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Just to give you all a heads up if doin head replacement for the first time...your ARP bolt set will come with instructions a bit different that your ford manual on torque..though the pattern obviously stays the same. For anyone who cares, I did follow ARP and at the end of the torqueing, went across the valve cover head bolts(in same pattern) and torqued to 80 lbs....everything running great.
 

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Its always best to follow the specs of aftermarket fastners when using aftermarket fastners. Ok that didnt come out right...:headscratch:

Lets try it this way. When using an aftermarket bolt or fastner, its always best to go by the Manf. specs. The Haynes, Chilton, and other manuals are generally given or using the Ford(If its a FORD) factory bolt specs. Different bolt and fastner companies have different tolerances.
 

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Good to know..thanx 89....
 

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no just coat the threads with the sealer dont just fill the hole
 

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Discussion Starter #15
so i take off the valve covers and fill coat those threads or do i have to take off the heads as well? sorry im so lost
 
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