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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
all right I'm leaving for mississippi for three mths to help with katrina. When I get back I will have close to 2500 dollars to drop on my car. now I just wanted some opinions on what I should start out with Its pretty much stock i already have a pretty good sound system. so I want to upgrade suspension and performance.
 

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blkwidow04 said:
all right I'm leaving for mississippi for three mths to help with katrina. When I get back I will have close to 2500 dollars to drop on my car. now I just wanted some opinions on what I should start out with Its pretty much stock i already have a pretty good sound system. so I want to upgrade suspension and performance.
Well, you can go about things 2 ways.

Port & polish + cam, valves, etc.

Of you can go bolt-on and return it to stock when you sell.

What are your plans for the car?
 

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If you want suspension and performance then I would get a set of springs, CC plates and shocks & struts. A rear sway bar would be nice also and you could pick up a used on for 40 dollars at a local junk yard. Now if you don't have rims and tires you could do that or you could put the other 15-1400 into performance by the way of the usually bolt-ons (cai, udp, exhaust) and a set of 3.73's (manual) or 4.10's (auto) and a tlock. This will give you handling and much more punch in your car. :smoke:
 

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Duncan McDougal said:
If you want suspension and performance then I would get a set of springs, CC plates and shocks & struts. A rear sway bar would be nice also and you could pick up a used on for 40 dollars at a local junk yard. Now if you don't have rims and tires you could do that or you could put the other 15-1400 into performance by the way of the usually bolt-ons (cai, udp, exhaust) and a set of 3.73's (manual) or 4.10's (auto) and a tlock. This will give you handling and much more punch in your car. :smoke:
yeah, but all that stuff can be done month to month.

If you've got a big sum, I'd drop it on the SC unit or port & polish for NA(big ticket items) and sweat teh small stuff later.
 

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Duncan McDougal said:
If you want suspension and performance then I would get a set of springs, CC plates and shocks & struts. A rear sway bar would be nice also and you could pick up a used on for 40 dollars at a local junk yard. Now if you don't have rims and tires you could do that or you could put the other 15-1400 into performance by the way of the usually bolt-ons (cai, udp, exhaust) and a set of 3.73's (manual) or 4.10's (auto) and a tlock. This will give you handling and much more punch in your car. :smoke:
Was there any particular reason why you recommended the 3.73's for the manual and the 4.10s for the autos?
 

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ShadowFist said:
Was there any particular reason why you recommended the 3.73's for the manual and the 4.10s for the autos?
Because they are the best for the powerband of a V6 and the low redline. Also the manual doesn't need the extra gear like an auto does. Here are the gear ratios for a 5-speed and an auto. Also 4.10's on a 5-speed would put you into 5th at the track if you ever want to trap above 102, which hard shifting and putting a lot of power into 5th is a big no no.

T-5
1st 3.35
2nd 1.99
3rd 1.33
4th 1.00
5th 0.68

4r70w
1st 2.84
2nd 1.55
3rd 1.00
4th 0.70
5th N/A


kscoyote said:
yeah, but all that stuff can be done month to month.

If you've got a big sum, I'd drop it on the SC unit or port & polish for NA(big ticket items) and sweat teh small stuff later.
I would be a little hesinant to put a supercharger on a car with a stock rearend and suspension. It is a general rule of thumb to build the base of the car (suspension, rearend, tires) before you get into the power category. You probably meant that he could do both when build his supercharger or engine but just stretched over a longer period of time.
 

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Duncan McDougal said:
Because they are the best for the powerband of a V6 and the low redline. Also the manual doesn't need the extra gear like an auto does. Here are the gear ratios for a 5-speed and an auto. Also 4.10's on a 5-speed would put you into 5th at the track if you ever want to trap above 102, which hard shifting and putting a lot of power into 5th is a big no no.

T-5
1st 3.35
2nd 1.99
3rd 1.33
4th 1.00
5th 0.68

4r70w
1st 2.84
2nd 1.55
3rd 1.00
4th 0.70
5th N/A


I would be a little hesinant to put a supercharger on a car with a stock rearend and suspension. It is a general rule of thumb to build the base of the car (suspension, rearend, tires) before you get into the power category. You probably meant that he could do both when build his supercharger or engine but just stretched over a longer period of time.

The rear can handle 350+ hp from a centrifugal SC. 2001+ 7.5" rears have 28 spline axles.

Since the power doesn't come on until 3000 RPM, there isn;t as much stress on driveline components. (If you try and launch with 3000+ RPM drops, then you're in trouble.

If you're going to use a SC, you should keep stock gearing. anything above 3.55s will slow you down.

If you're going Naturally Aspirated, gears will definitely help.

yeah, do the rest piecemally after the big ticket items.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanx for the input

Its a "slush box". What I'm going for is street strip. I'll be taking it to the strip on the weekends but I still need it for a daily driver (for now). I was thinking about a twin turbo setup (garrett t3's) and dual exhaust.
 

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It will cost a bit more than 2500 for twin turbos...
 

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ShadowFist said:
It will cost a bit more than 2500 for twin turbos...
The last price I saw was 4500, AND you'll have to get forged internals, fer sure.
 

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kscoyote said:
Thats impressive, 300ish horsepower on a stock mustang with the ability to go from there all the way up to who knows how much power as you upgrade your internals. All for around 3,000. I might just save up for that as an earlier upgrade rather than a later one.
 

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blkwidow04 said:
what about a kenne bell supercharger anyone know how well the work.
There is no Kenne Bell SC for the v6.

You can run an Eaton unit from the T-bird SC. Or an ATI Procharger, Vortech, or Powerdyne.
 

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