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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. I have an 02 Mustang GT and was wondering, If I put on the parts below, what kind of power would I expect to get from it?

Parts I already have : Flowmaster off-road H pipe, K&N Air intake

Parts looking to put on : BBK longtubes, SR performance 70mm TB, and a BBK underprice pulley. I may look into a mild cam aswell, but my engine is stock and I would need someone to fill me in on what it would take to get that done. I would be putting these on myself so that cost would be taken care of too.

I am not the most experienced in this stuff however, I am only 16 so I'm still learning but with you guys helping me out I think I could learn a thing or two about what the facts are. :)

So in the end, what would you guys think I could expect power wise? With and without the cams? I'm guessing as of now I'm only making about 240-250 RWHP, but I bet with the parts that I want, that number could go up.

As always, thanks a ton guys!! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I said underprice pulley, meant underDRIVE. Sorry for my 4th grade level spelling facepalm2.gif
 

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Hi Guy! Unfortunitely, no power gains from any of this....

Here's some reading for you...

Flowmaster, H-pipe, headers, CAI...

Here's a link to a "Real Test" that verifies....on a 700+ hp engine......no gain or loss of with or without the cats! and provides some real insight on headers, etc.

http://www.kennebell.net/KBWebsite/Common/pdfs/header_cat_xpipe_exhaust_tests.pdf

The H-Pipe really plays very little in terms of performance- nor does it reduce backpressure in any way- it was originally introduced to equalize the pressure between the two pipes, inducing a scavenging effect, but in reality, while it did improve some things a little, all it really, the only thing it really was effective at was to reduce noise- nothing more. An X-pipe will increase HP if it is installed at the "area of confusion"- but that area is identified by painting a small strip on the exhaust pipes about 1/2 way between the engine and the axle- the area of confusion will cause increased heat and blister/burn the paint at that location- that's where the H or X pipe would be installed- and eliminates the air flow disturbance by sending alternating pulses in that location which acts as a "vacuum" if you will to push & scavenge the remaining and incoming air out....but, with just about all the universal type systems, unless the H/X is installed in the area of confusion for your car, there are little to no power gains.

With regards to the CAI...

In 2012, Mustang Chief Engineer Dave Pericak specifically stated that the use of an aftermarket CAI will do nothing to gain any power.
because for one, your crr already has a CAI from the factory, whose CFM capability already exceeds that of the engines stock design.

The formula which is used by every air filter manufacturer in the world to determine the CFM for flat panel filters is...
Flat Panel CM= Length x Width x 6

So, take your relatively stock engine, calc the max CFM based upon mfg specs; calc the max CFM the oem filter will flow....now show me how sticking a filter that will flow 900 CFM will increase the performance of an engine that can only suck in a max of 480 cfm and has an oem filter that will flow 500 (like on the 5.4 F150)? Unfortunitely, it just isn't happening.

Testand Corporation conducted an ISO standards test on automotive air filters which can be viewed at this link: Duramax Air Filter Testing * - Diesel Bombers.

“After only 24 minutes the K&N had accumulated 221gms of dirt but passed 7.0gms. Compared to the AC, the K&N “plugged up” nearly 3 times faster, passed 18 times more dirt and captured 37% less dirt.”

With regards to the rest, compared to the oem manifolds, there is at best, 5-8 hp gain at redline with aftermarket headers on your stock engine.....and the TB...your oem TB already provides more flow than the current engine can suck in....there will be no gain on a stock engine.

Aftermarket cams are always a real good performance adder but expensive, because it's not just installing the cam, but installing the valvetrain (springs, etc.) that the cam needs to work the way it's suppose to...plus it either needs to be compatible with the ECM or you are now into custom programming....to go with a cam, valvetrain kit & programming....that is near $1k. The underdrive pulley on a daily driver can cause issues.....it really as far as power gains goes, only is benefitial at high RPMs.....and in a street vehicle, if you wait to develop your power until 4000+ rpm....the race is already over. Underdrive pulleys also can cause charging system issues especially if you do a lot of street (vs highway) driving....the slower crankshaft speed turns the generator slower which todays engines literally run off the charging system (as compared to the old stuff - 1970's and back)...and you can find yourself with a dead/sub charged battery as a result...but this can be addressed if you buy a complete pulley system that is designed to offset this.

The really best bang for the $, is really a gear change...nothing too radical.....if you have 3.25's you can go to 3.75's and the car will feel much stronger (as if you had done some very expensive mods)...but should cost closer to the $500 range.
 

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Hey guys. I have an 02 Mustang GT and was wondering, If I put on the parts below, what kind of power would I expect to get from it?

Parts I already have : Flowmaster off-road H pipe, K&N Air intake

Parts looking to put on : BBK longtubes, SR performance 70mm TB, and a BBK underprice pulley. I may look into a mild cam aswell, but my engine is stock and I would need someone to fill me in on what it would take to get that done. I would be putting these on myself so that cost would be taken care of too.

I am not the most experienced in this stuff however, I am only 16 so I'm still learning but with you guys helping me out I think I could learn a thing or two about what the facts are. :)

So in the end, what would you guys think I could expect power wise? With and without the cams? I'm guessing as of now I'm only making about 240-250 RWHP, but I bet with the parts that I want, that number could go up.

As always, thanks a ton guys!! :)

Honestly I can tell you that you are not close to 240-250 rwhp yet. These cars are rated at 260 fwhp not rwhp from factory. I am sitting at 300 rwhp with my car and 432 rwhp on nitrous.

Headers make a good difference, the throttle body is also nice. I myself recommend the following for you.

3.73 or 4.10 gears
SCT programmer
BBK 78mm throttle body with plenum (I have a slightly used one for sale)
Long tube headers.

These items with what you have will place you in the ballpark of 240-250 rwhp. As gears will not give you anymore power the car will take off much faster giving you the thrill of faster acceleration. With you being 16 years old I find it great that you are interested in this hobby but the big thing to remember is it is a hobby, it is expensive, and you should respect your car and not be trying to impress friends or girls with it so you dont end up hurting yourself or others. I can share all the information in the world with you about getting more power but you gotta be careful because when you start changing out cams and other items, you need other supporting mods such as valve springs, injectors, fuel pump, heads or intake... I would probably do steeda under drive pulleys but thats a suggestion. All of my items I used and did to my car are on my profile. Enjoy your car and use common sense with it to keep yourself safe.
 

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Yeah, you are currently sitting at maybe 5-10 peak more than stock...maybe....

You current mod list looks fine, except instead of the TB I would opt for a plenum first as it is the restrictive part of the intake...do not expect to make over 250-260whp with your mods. The Longtubes is the best mod out of that list but they are suck a$$ to install...

I was only 240whp on the stock tune with 75mmtb/plenum, x-pipe and flowmaster exhaust. Midrange is improved though...it's not always about the peak numbers.

Don't forget to get a tune, its make a difference if the tune is right.

For cams...do your research. There is a lot to learn there. I'm no expert so I'll let you research this on your own.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
First of all, thanks to everyone helping me out. so what I've heard is that I'm probably making 230 to the wheels, and I could swap gears for better acceleration. Well, maybe I should do 4.10 gears first, and get that extra acceleration, and then focus more on engine mods. What do you guys think? Would the new gears make a big difference in Giddie up or not really? And what mod should I get to the engine after I do gears? Thanks :)
 

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i would definitely do the gears first! then a good set of longtube headers & 75mm throttle body/plenum combo. then maybe get some larger fuel injectors, but youll definatly need a tune if you take that route. Before you decide on getting a cam i would try and get all the basic bolts on done first, because your probable going to spend atleast $1000 in parts on that mod alone.

i have a 97 gt i just did an auto manual swap on (still working out the kinks) lol and my next mods are 4:10s and p.i swap.. if i would have know what i know nowi would have started with those 2 mods first lmao

is your car auto or 5 speed?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Oh I should of mentioned this. It's an automatic. Also, is it hard to put on a 75mm TB rather than a 70mm? Or is it pretty much the same difficulty?
 

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Also, I believe with any 75mm TB you need an aftermarket plenum but I could be wrong....I would also advise getting the 78mm BBK unit or a 75mm/plenum combo from Trickflow/SVE etc....it is a worth while upgrade in my opinion.
 
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