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Discussion Starter #1
anyone else had an issue with the stock spacer plate between the block and the bellhousing not fitting due to the indent on the bottom of it? its holding my project up and i need to get the car done for this weekend
 

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I've outright gotten rid of that thin plate and haven't had any issues. Either that or modify the plate.
 

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i didnt want to get rid of it because i want to be able to drive the car, it isnt just gonna be a nice weather car, and i was worried if i cut it, the rest of the plate might get to flimsy and hit the flywheel and i do not want to pull the engine or transmission for that stupid thing, so i searched around and there is this guy on ebay that sells the one that will fit race pans, its perfectly flat and its only $24.50, so im waiting on that to get here. thanks for the help guys
 

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here's another question......when building a motor for a daily driven/ weekend racer is the stock old pan cool or should i go with a aftermarket one that holds 7 quartz...just asking
 

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here's another question......when building a motor for a daily driven/ weekend racer is the stock old pan cool or should i go with a aftermarket one that holds 7 quartz...just asking
I would definately go with a good aftermarket pan. Something that will hold more oil and also give you better oil control on your bottom end. Alot of these pans are available with all kinds of trap doors, windage trays/ baffles to keep the oil in the sump(s) seperated from whats draining down from above. A crank scraper is probably also a good idea while the pan is off...keeps excess oil from wraping itself up around the crank and causing loss in HP and unbalanced crank conditions.:bigthumbsup
 
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