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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone done the shifter shim mod and does it really help?

Research done here:

Ford Mustang Forum - View Single Post - Official 2011-2014 MT-82 manual tranny shifting problems.

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-2014-mustang-gt-tech/355031-transmission-shim-mod-question.html

I didn't see any reviews of this though. Theory seems solid.

Also, I have a suspicion. If shifter misalignment is really an issue with the MT82 due to its mounting configuration (fixed to transmission, floating to frame) then Ford probably made the rear support bushing really squishy and flimsy for a reason - if its too stiff, the rear of the shifter will be fixed to the frame while the front moves with the drivetrain. Basically, whenever the drivetrain moves or loads up, the shifter will act as a transmission mount and be twisted.



The rear mount is probably intended to allow movement. If this is the case, then replacing the flimsy rear mount with a stiff poly one will just make the problem worse.

Thanks. Any comments welcome.
 

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Don't overthink it. Any decent rear bracket like a Steeda makes a huge difference. I did it all. Bracket, weighted knob, Whitline bushing and MGW arm bushing. They all helped some. Between the bracket and the weighted knob, they helped the most. It wads about as good as any remote shifter will ever get like that.

The shim mod can actually promote misalignment rather than reverse it.

I used this setup to pound out over 100 dragstrip passes. pretty solid, even if the addup was close to what a full shifter would have cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It still seems like an upgraded, stiffer rear bracket will just make alignment problems worse when the drivetrain or chassis is under load.
 

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It still seems like an upgraded, stiffer rear bracket will just make alignment problems worse when the drivetrain or chassis is under load.
I agree with this thinking actually and so, I think, does MGW. Their latest shifters completely disengage any connection to the body and float with the transmission just like a top-loader design. This was also what Blow Fish racing was thinking with their shifter bracket.
 

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Don't overthink it. Any decent rear bracket like a Steeda makes a huge difference. I did it all. Bracket, weighted knob, Whitline bushing and MGW arm bushing. They all helped some. Between the bracket and the weighted knob, they helped the most. It wads about as good as any remote shifter will ever get like that.

The shim mod can actually promote misalignment rather than reverse it.

I used this setup to pound out over 100 dragstrip passes. pretty solid, even if the addup was close to what a full shifter would have cost.
Can you provide me more information on the MGW arm bushing? I heard about it over a year ago and I tried googling to find the information with no results. I have done quite a bit to help the transmission shift easier and not miss gears. I still have to really take my time at high rpms to get the shifter into 5th from 4th. And I think sometimes also 3rd to 4th. I wish I would have gone the route of MG race spec shifter now but I don't want to spend more money on a shifter.
 

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Never mind I found it by googling what you called it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bILpfGaFYMc

I wonder how easy it is to change the bushings? Can it be done from below the car without taking the shifter out etc.?
 

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Just call them to get it. $29. Took me about a 1/2 hour to install on jackstands. Just undo the cross, lower the trans, undo the crosspin bolt and three attachment bolts at the shift box. Take the arm to the bench, put in the bushing and reinstall.
 

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Just call them to get it. $29. Took me about a 1/2 hour to install on jackstands. Just undo the cross, lower the trans, undo the crosspin bolt and three attachment bolts at the shift box. Take the arm to the bench, put in the bushing and reinstall.
Thank you for the information. I am going to order one now. Do I need to take my driveshaft out or do I only lower the transmission slightly?
 

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I'm good but not that good. I couldn't do what I said and take the DS out in a 1/2 hour. You just need to drop the trans enough to get access to the crossbolt at the trans end.
 

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Barton Industries Mustang Short Shifter and Two-Post Bracket - MT-82 2011BM2PB (11-14 GT, V6, BOSS) - Free Shipping

Installed the shifter 2 weekends ago in my garage in about 20 minutes. Had already purchased and installed the 2 post bracket a few months ago and it too can be installed on jack stands without removing anything other than the factory bracket/bushing (2 bolts). The bracket tightened up slop in the shifter quite a bit but I still had occasional grinding into gears. The shifter decreased the throws by around 40% so instead of grabbing the knob and moving your hand/arm to shift you can rest your palm on the shifter and push the car through the gears with a flick of you fingers if you want to. Shifting is faster and gears are closer together and the shifter has a nice mechanical feel with clicks into each gear and I have not experienced any grinding since the install.
 

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The Barton is a nice set up no doubt but it is treating the symptoms and not the problem.


The shifter is mounted to the tunnel so when the motor torques under load the trans does too - and the shifter doesn't - which leads to missed shifts, grinding and occasionally bad things happening to our transmissions. The MGW and Blowfish set ups address this by disconnecting the shift mechanism from the body and hard mounting it to the transmission.


This is really the only way to fix it properly. Everything else is just a stop gap attempting to stabilize the back of the transmission shifter set up.


my .02


Scott
 
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