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I have posted before on this problem but need to give everyone a heads up and what to be aware of. I purchased my 2011 Mustang new in June of 2010. Immediately I noticed that once in a while the air conditioner would blow warm air. It would last only a few seconds and then go back to cold where it usually stayed. This summer the air started blowing warm as often as cold. The hotter the ambient temperature the hotter and longer it would blow. At 90 degrees outside temp it had a swing in air conditioning temp of 15 degrees. At 100 degrees the temp differential was more than 15 degrees and would blow hot air more than cold. I have had the car in 5 times now. Ford engineers got involved and they just notified me that they consider this temp differential to be within normal limits. Thats BS as I have purchased 5 new fords over the years and none of them had this trait. The dealership drove three new mustangs they had on the lot and couldn't get any of them to do this. My Fusion 4 banger loaner car does not have any temp differential. Ford has tested and re tested all the components and cannot figure out how to fix it. Ford has told me to pick up my car and they will not address the issue anymore. I was hoping it would not come to this as I have a few hundred in aftermarket improvements in the car but I am in contact with a lemon law lawyer as I feel it is my last option. What a shame! Hope no one else has to go through this but if you notice a temp differential in you air conditioning expect it to get worse with no fix from Ford.
 

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The only time the A/C should be noticeably warmer is under hard acceleration.

I would send a PM to Deysha, Ford Customer Service Rep, here at allfordmustangs and get her involved.
 

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Do you have an aftermarket stereo anything?
 

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Thanks for the update. Please be sure to keep us informed on the eventual outcome.

Boy, this is really shocking that Ford can't figure this out. In my line of work repairing washer and dryers, if we can't figure out what the problem is we start replacing parts until we fix it. Seems like an AC system is not that complicated with only 5 or 6 mostly inexpensive components that could possibly be changed. That has got to be cheaper than answering even the first letter from a lemon law attorney.

Good luck in kicking our otherwise favorite auto manufacturer's behind. (Deysha, no offense meant)

paulw
2013 Grabber Blue GT Coupe
1969 GT Convertible
1968 6cyl Plain Jane Coupe
 

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Discussion Starter #6
air conditioning problem

yes Paulw- this is extremely disappointing. Every component of the air conditioning system has been tested under cold and hot operating conditions and ford found nothing wrong. The blend door was disconnected and it still blew hot air. The freon was drawn out and re-charged incase there was a bubble in the system and it made no difference. The part that really bothers me is when ford can not fix the problem their engineer decided to call it 'normal' and told me to pick my car up. I realize it is something ford has not seen in our cars but they should seek a remedy that is beneficial to both parties. Good luck with your Mustang.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
air conditioning problem

donfromnaples and fik- No I dont have an aftermarket stereo. All components are factory with the exception of wood grain dash that I installed. This variation in temp does not matter if the car is under hard acceleration or cruising down a flat highway with the cruise set.
 
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I have posted before on this problem but need to give everyone a heads up and what to be aware of. I purchased my 2011 Mustang new in June of 2010. Immediately I noticed that once in a while the air conditioner would blow warm air. It would last only a few seconds and then go back to cold where it usually stayed. This summer the air started blowing warm as often as cold. The hotter the ambient temperature the hotter and longer it would blow. At 90 degrees outside temp it had a swing in air conditioning temp of 15 degrees. At 100 degrees the temp differential was more than 15 degrees and would blow hot air more than cold. I have had the car in 5 times now. Ford engineers got involved and they just notified me that they consider this temp differential to be within normal limits. Thats BS as I have purchased 5 new fords over the years and none of them had this trait. The dealership drove three new mustangs they had on the lot and couldn't get any of them to do this. My Fusion 4 banger loaner car does not have any temp differential. Ford has tested and re tested all the components and cannot figure out how to fix it. Ford has told me to pick up my car and they will not address the issue anymore. I was hoping it would not come to this as I have a few hundred in aftermarket improvements in the car but I am in contact with a lemon law lawyer as I feel it is my last option.
Hi sandawilliams,

Your case is still open with us. You can address your concerns with your CSM, as she has a follow up set for Friday 7/27/12.

I would send a PM to Deysha, Ford Customer Service Rep, here at allfordmustangs and get her involved.
Thank you for the mention, donfromnaples!

Deysha
 

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I have a similar problem. However, the A/C still manages to cool the car. I'm not sure about yours. It sure is annoying though. I've noticed it is particularly bad on mine when I have the recirculation button on and/or the Max A/C button.
 

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I have a 2014 V6 Manual tran with only 700mi on it and have the same problem. In experimenting with it, when driving at a steady speed it has no issues. In traffic however, when I've acclerated to about 3000rpms and then let off the gas, for the next light or getting too close to someone, the compressor cuts off and hot air blows out the air vents until I get back on the gas or push the clutch in. Here in Arizona this makes driving the car unbearable, dash showed 132 degrees the other day in traffic, news reported 120. My GF refuses to drive the car, not a bad thing really (lol), but it isn't fun to drive in the heat. It's been in the shop for a few days now and they claim they can't repeat the issue while test driving it, figures. Anyway I'm going over there today to drive it for them, I'll bring my temperature gun I've had the car almost 3 mos now and only drive it in the evening after the sun goes down, 3 mos and 700mi, I have cancer and don't have the time to fool around with the dealership, if they can't fix it I'll trade it off.
 

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^ Others can chime in, but as I recall the car by design cuts off the compressor when the engine revs over a certain level to prevent components from damage.
 

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^ Others can chime in, but as I recall the car by design cuts off the compressor when the engine revs over a certain level to prevent components from damage.
Mine is cutting off when I go below 1800 rpms.
 

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Well the car has been at 2 dealers now and they both can feel the air getting warmer when it gets down to idle speed and both say this is "normal" and nothing will be down. The cars now has 900 mi on it, I'll just trade it off and take a beating on the money. Can't drive this car here in Arizona in traffic with the air shutting off at each stoplight.
 

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I had two VWs that do the same thing, the compressor clutch would disengage at WOT and under no load. Both the cars were MTs, so that meant they would cut out at stop lights. VW had a blurb in the owner's manual about doing that so they would cut down on emissions, because sweating your butt off in traffic is better for the environment.
I've noticed my '14 does the same thing, I think it modulates also if I set the A/C anywhere between halfway cold and "warm" (mine has knobs for A/C), between 0900 and 1200 as you look at the knob.
 

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Anyone else interested in this wood-grain dash? lol
 

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I had two VWs that do the same thing, the compressor clutch would disengage at WOT and under no load. Both the cars were MTs, so that meant they would cut out at stop lights. VW had a blurb in the owner's manual about doing that so they would cut down on emissions, because sweating your butt off in traffic is better for the environment.
I've noticed my '14 does the same thing, I think it modulates also if I set the A/C anywhere between halfway cold and "warm" (mine has knobs for A/C), between 0900 and 1200 as you look at the knob.
So where do you set it for the best results? I find that half fan speed and temp at half full cold with the recirculate button on seems to work the best but it still is too warm to drive in stop-n-go traffic.
 

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There is a door defrost door actuator motor that could have gone bad. It usually makes a clicking sound before it goes and when it does it doesn't properly close the vent off. If you run in max mode you would still notice it.mine was recently replaced under warranty. The part is cheap and you can find the install instructions on YouTube .


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So where do you set it for the best results? I find that half fan speed and temp at half full cold with the recirculate button on seems to work the best but it still is too warm to drive in stop-n-go traffic.
I leave it on max a/c with the temperature knob at about 0900 early in the morning (between 0700 and 0800 on my commute) when the temps. and humidity are in the upper 70s/ lower 80s and full cold to almost full cold in the afternoons when the temps. are in the upper 80s/ lower 90s, fan speed usually at slowest in the morning, one or two noches faster than slowest in the afternoon.
Honestly, I like to run with the windows open, but the past two weeks have been unbearably hot/humid.
 

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Well, I rented a similar V6 Mustang for a week, the A/C was perfect. Mine still doesn't work. And Ford tells me mine is normal, what BS!!!
 
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